[CarsOrBikes]

you don't need r56 sensors, you use the 53 ones in the 56 pads

 

[CarsOrBikes]

a 1302469 needs a map. You can run my EW02 but it will sometimes stall at junctions or usually parking etc unless you have the idle raised by 50-100 at an Autologic equipped garage with a Mini licence, it should still be mapped but will drive without, I first ran it for some months prior to having it custom mapped years back, without and with a 17%, it needs fuel up top. You can definitely run a Newman PH2 which idles very well indeed out of the box, again a map is recommended for the same reason but it's a smoother cam of the three, or any milder option PH1/2, 1302461, Schrick etc all slightly different ;O) I'll soon have a new Newman option (or two), one of which will be ok in a stock head.

 

[Mysticarl]

Good to know, thanks!

I'll probably get the cam done at the same time as the injectors etc. then. I was hoping I might be OK to do the 2 hour run to 1320 but not if it risks damaging anything or is undriveable!

I'd rather go with a more aggressive cam as it's really going to be a track toy 75%+ of the time, and more power I can get from the mods I do end up doing the better, especially when cam prices seems broadly similar.

It's a struggle after a trackday not to just buy a load of new bits! I've got pleanty to be getting on with though.

 

[Fro-dizzle]

Couldn't agree more, it's hard to sit on your hands afterwards!

 

[CarsOrBikes]

the cams will all be ok to drive to 1320, it's at junctions etc or in traffic that they might stall or bog, especially the 1302469, on the road under 5k without full throttle it'd be useable still,

 

[Mysticarl]

the cams will all be ok to drive to 1320, it's at junctions etc or in traffic that they might stall or bog, especially the 1302469, on the road under 5k without full throttle it'd be useable still,

Thanks for the info

One other question on the 469, would the manifold be a sensible upgrade at the same time to help maximise the increased exhaust cycle duration, or is the stock one OK for the sort of power I'd get? With 550's, 469 cam and existing 15% pulley I'd assume to be around 215hp ish? As far as I'm aware the engine internals are stock.

 

[CarsOrBikes]

yes imo

not all aftermarket manifolds have the same affect but they'll all be better than the stock one imo regardless of aftermarket cam version, not essential but I'd recommend it.

215 flywheel? I'd have thought more than that,

 

[Mysticarl]

I meant 215 at the wheels but maybe that's too optimistic?


Work has been relentless recently but I’ve been making slow but steady progress on my replacement rev counter project. Over the last couple of months I’ve managed to get the CAN interface working and decoded a few of the car signals. I’ve got a basic display working with some shift lights and I’m starting to work on some driver alerts so I know quicker when the car’s overheating on a track day!

(ignore the red circles, they're only there to show where the touch zones are)
It’s not the prettiest, but at least it’s mountable and self-contained with the ECU dev board, PSU, CAN and other bits and bobs. I bought the cheapest 2nd hand rev counter I could find to rob the metal mounting bracket for it as well as the cable socket to fit the car, mounted the screen to a roughly cut bit of aluminium plate I had kicking around and packaged all the electronics within or behind it. I’m sure a ‘final’ version will be a lot tidier but for now it at least means I can test software changes easily and it’s easier to handle than a load of dev boards on my desk.

Now I need to get a couple of basic warnings in for over temperature, then add in a few more signals if I can find them (the signal for disabling the ASC will be the first one), adding some adjustability for things (a profile or two for the shift lights, etc.) and then I can think about trying to get some additional signals in from the engine like fuel pressure, calliper temperatures, etc.

Also on the shopping list is an aftermarket wheel, partly to give a little more room to see the screen but mostly to extend the reach as I’m 6’4 and it’s not the greatest driving position in the world with the wheel where it is!

Getting very close to ordering suspension now too – I’m still thinking BC RM though not set on spring rate yet. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks.


I've managed to find some info on the CAN spec for the car online but if anyone knows of any that can be shared do please let me know it's always easier not to have to reverse engineer these things!

 

[Mysticarl]

Quick question on BC springs, are they the same size front and rear? Thinking I might get RM 10Kg/mm front and 8Kg/mm rear, then get a set of 7s for the wet or if I think they're too stiff, but that relies on me being able to swap the 8s from the back to the front. If that's not over-thinking things

 

[CarsOrBikes]

no

 

[Alski]

I might have spares will have to check rates

 

[Mysticarl]

No urgency, thanks for the info CoB. I'll give the 10/8s a go and see how they are. The springs seem reasonable enough that a second set for testing feel won't be too expensive.

 

[CarsOrBikes]

RM fronts are 150mm, rears 170mm iirc, (normal options 8/7, 8/6, 7/6) you might be able to absorb the difference in the available threaded area of the damper body though dependent on your setup but unlikely as the bodies on RM's are quite short, so the only real way you could hope to achieve that would be with four fronts and compromise the rear travel perhaps with a shorter spring. That might not be so bad on a stripped car with higher rates who knows. BR's are 160 and 180 iirc, with 7/6 normally but barrel fronts. It'd all be a compromise anyway tbf as these won't be valved quite right even for the default springs probably, let alone the suggested rate combination....

 

[Mysticarl]

Oh OK, I'd kind of expect them to be valved according to the spring rates you order as they are not an off-the-shelf item anyway, so that's useful to know.

Although I do use it on the road it's really a track car only, so I'm happy making compromises on comfort for better track handling. From research the mini challenge R53's ran really stiff (14/10 or 12s I've seen mentioned), and as they are lighter than mine will likely be I figured I needed to go pretty stiff to get better on-track handling. Maybe I'd be better off starting with 8/7 and go from there. I don't mind dropping 200-odd later down the line for new springs.

One thing I'm mindful of with the new suspension is the driveshafts - is there a consensus on how low is OK without much risk of them having issues? A lower COG for the track would be nice, I'm thinking 25-30mm which hopefully would be OK. (maybe less than that initially as I won't immediately be using adjustable drop links).

Thanks for the help as always

 

[Fro-dizzle]

should be fine with 25-30, think I'm around that now and have no draft shaft issues. Was initially lower and didn't have issues then either but I'm not a fan of the slammed look so raised it a bit.

Don't have any recent pictures that would show it (most recent ones in my thread were after it had been jacked up so is sitting a bit higher than usual).

 

[Mysticarl]

Just booked a track day on 25th May at Snetterton, they're definitely booking up quickly!

 

[Fro-dizzle]

They sure are!

 

[Mysticarl]

Part of the next phase has arrived!

Upgrade parts:

• BC RM coilovers (went for 8Kg front, 7Kg rear)
• Hardrace adjustable RCAs (one set only)
• 550 injectors
• catcam 1302469
• remap at 1320 for the new engine parts

Maintenance parts:

• new water pump
• new alternator
• new fuel filter

Other bits to be done at the same time:

• service supercharger
• replace crank sensor o-ring
• fit sump guard
• fit new radiator fan resistor
• fit new bonnet scoop
• ideally fit brake cooling ducts

Stuff I still need to find:

• a fuel pressure sensor to fit on the fuel rail that doesn't cost the earth, ideally before I fit the 550s
• try and find a small-ish MAF to allow me to experiment with airflow into the brake ducts at some point
• decode more of the CAN from the car to add other bits to the display missing at the moment

I decided on doing the remapping before Snetterton again so I don't have to worry about leaning out the engine when pushing. There's at least 3 places where higher revs would save time rather than having to change up a gear, and that's before the suspension hopefully pushing my corner exit speeds even higher!

Picking up the kids will be the last time it's on the road for a week or two while I get the servicing stuff done, hopefully coinciding with less stress from work as well.

 

[Maccmike]

Great list, thatll keep you occupied.

 

[KeithyCoop]

Just booked a track day on 25th May at Snetterton, they're definitely booking up quickly!

I’ve booked in there on the 31st of May, bank holiday so it’ll be wet.