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Discussion Starter #22
Where it sucks air from there is no hot air anyway and I'm going to get a vent for the grill. The is only one 80mm inlet that can only suck cold air due to it being out of the engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
BUT i found my front rear trailing arm bushes are kaput. Going to order a poly bush set and take the arms off and do it in place. Wish me luck 😂😂😂
 

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trailing arm front bushes are better left OEM really, only opinion etc
 

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the arms move trough an arc over their full travel which poly resists to a degree, the bolt/thread becomes a weak point as it gets loaded,

you don't really need to remove the arms to change the brackets
 

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the arms move trough an arc over their full travel which poly resists to a degree, the bolt/thread becomes a weak point as it gets loaded,
I thought that's what you were getting at. I've just changed mine to the softer Powerflex bushes and I was hoping that with the restricted travel of the coilovers and the harder bushes in the Hardrace arms then they wouldn't see too much of an arc. The bolt holes for the bracket are slotted so when I do the wheel alignment I was going to slacken the bolts off and take any preload out of the bush while the weight of the car is on the suspension.

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so not rear trailing arm bushes at all then 😂
 

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I just take the frame off, stuff that messing about haha, column bolt and uj tapped away, bottom ball joints away, arb links away, headlamp sensor away, pas res freed, oil syphoned so it doesn't drip out the cap when it flops over later, ten bolts, jack under frame hole for balance, roll out, bracket bolts out, screwdriver down bush/arm and spray wd or similar in there in a couple of places, twist off brackets, cut/tap off remains if applicable, use tool off car to pull out bush, 1/2" socket extension through bracket bolt hole underfoot to stop it rotating with tool turning, I use an air hammer to peen over an area of the bush and spray in there, take out bush, lube bracket and pull in new,

the reason I peen the bush now is the thread tore out of the puller tool when first used, saves the strain now breaking some of the contact arear away, went and bought some threaded bar and nuts to replace the tool bolt, grease the bar threads, and use the other tool fittings this way, straightforward imo,

if poly make sure the tapered lip clips past the bracket properly, lube and push together, arb on, frame on, check inner lower arm ball joints are tight to the frame while access is good, clean frame of oil and shite or previously dropped bolts haha, clean motor for fun, bolt up, uj on, clamp, pas refill and secure, ball joints, sensor, check steering wheel still straight ahead and set geom if required.

still not fun but leaves the arms on which are a pain to free imo from the ball pin, and uses the tool off the car, more room for a saw if required, but haven't had to use one since I broke the air hammer out, it's evil :devilish:😂

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That's ridiculous, are you going to do a full service yourself for piece of mind? If they couldn't be bothered with the pollen filter would question if they did the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I've check over the car it's seems all OK bar the filter but yes I'm doing a full service when I do the bushes and the exhaust and pulley
 
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