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Discussion Starter #1
So I havent done any mods to my R53 , in fact is has gotten very little use due to work commitments.
I have 380 Ford Injectors, Hobo intercooler, 18% pulley,belt plugs and tensioner, a supposedly tuned ecu , and a standard ecu

As the car is low miles (47K) I expect that the SC will need a service.

My plan is to firstly remove the old intercooler and do the injector upgrade using the wiring adapters.
Test the car with this mod , do I need to do ECU reset and will all run ok ?

If all is well I was then doing to progress with the Pulley swap.
Again test the car with the pulley and not thrash it as I have seen the results of the high intake temps.

Next will be the intercooler, lots of mods to fit and a longer job due to the diverter mods , and fettling required.

So on the ECU front I have a tuned ecu that is set up for 17% and a crank reduction with the larger injectors.

The ecu will need to be coded to a key , but I thought if I fitted my 2nd ECU (Full kit with keys) and then sucked the info from the modded ECU and then uploaded to the 2nd ECU.

So essentially I am mucking about with two spare ECU's.

The two spare ECU's are the same hardware model , so I gather I can read and write without issue (Hope)

Then off to the dyno to run both the modded ECU and my original one to see if there is any difference.

All sound about right ?

if the map on the ECU is any good its a bonus.
 

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an ecu will not be set up for your car spec unless you have yours custom mapped with settings changed on the rollers. That all sounds like something that emerged from the R53 owners group ;O)

an 18% will give you higher IAT's than most, with a hobo intercooler you'll have high temps for ages quite possibly, just those with then an unknown tune sounds a good way to ruin your low mileage engine even if it be slowly, while making less power available for shorter periods.

I'd sell the injectors and get 1320 to map it where they perhaps can find a way of telling or showing you the content of the tuning that has been done if any, they won't map it unless on stock injectors or Bosch 550's, going to all the trouble of fitting mismatched parts of different vin cars only to try to exploit an unknown degree of tuning seems rather mad, sorry. Maybe at least consider buying the kit and load it and tune it wherever you want, or yourself.

nothing wrong with going for power before braking or handling really, telling people not to just makes stuff read like we're encouraging them to fling the car around instead haha, braking is a priority of course making sure you can stop as quick as you can go, or quicker, regardless, it seems a shame to do stuff like this to what could be a nice car. Unless it's mapped on the rollers you'll have no idea how compatible this stuff is, if you're going ahead maybe fit new big end shells of a heavy duty type first in at least some effort to try and help them withstand the pummelling they're going to get, they will show wear already no doubt anyway, may as well try and help them out.

I'd fit a cam to it first, choose one that suits how you'll actually drive and see how it feels, then you might see a lower pulley drop may suit you better, trying to stuff 18% more air into a cylinder that doesn't really want it on top of the heat it has already will deny you power. When the cam provides the next largest power hike to a pulley it's really worth fitting them the other way round. A cam cannot increase IAT so it's pure win ;O)

Valves opening sooner, faster, further, for longer are four excellent reasons to help yourself. If you're not going to spend all your time between 5-6.5krpm and more likely 4-5.5k then you don't need a mad cam but any is better than the above.

I'll rent you one for £120 over 28 days, I've just fitted one in a car of mine but would happily go take it out again after demonstrating two cars here with two different cams, then fit it in yours so you can think about it.

Not having a pop, don't take it that way, it's your car, do what you want, I'd like to help and can that's all. It may be that you still fit an 18 or similar, but knowing you have a poor method of cooling it is worth considering a bit of both that can help work with the I/C you want rather than just overwhelm it from the off ;O) More power for longer etc.

::getcoat::
 

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Sean has pretty much covered it above. Sorry but 18% and a supposedly mapped ECU sounds like a recipe for melting things. Not worth the risk on these.

I wouldn't waste any time with a map or injectors unless you do any head/cam changes. Invest in a good exhaust manifold and airbox, you'll get more with those than with a flashed ECU and 380s.

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
 

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Considering op is suggesting putting the car on a dyno to check what's happening, it's not such a bad idea. If anything will just be a waste of some time and $ for dyno time.

Probably not worth it in terms of the level of mods not really needing larger injectors but I'd be interested to see the actual results if op doesn't mind investing the time and money.
 

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will the dyno 'check' reveal much about what might be wrong in the map do you think?
 

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Well, not really but it would show where the afr's are, if there is any excessive knock, if it has gained or lost any power and where in the rev range.
 

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Power first.....You're going down a well travelled route with 380's and a hobo intercooler. It'll work. The only unknown really is the ecu, but if you don't want to risk it then there's a guy in Boldon (North of Sunderland) who will drop a JCW210 map on it for you. You'll need to slightly mod your intake manifold to get the intercooler to fit properly, if you don't fancy the job then I don't mind lending a hand. Likewise with stuff like manifold gasket matching etc
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It will be definitely going on the dyno at all stages to see what the afr's are and see is there is any knock. The reason for the not so perfect set up is I still need see if its going to float my boat , if all is well its straight in with more permanent and developed mods. I agree about the brakes , they work well until you put them under pressure and wow they show their weak side , even on a standard car.
 

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i'd probably go down this route
manifold, exhaust, smaller pulley 15 or 17%, Cam, upgrade I/C, DaveF intake mod, get it on a dyno / get it mapped
then R56 brake upgrade, suspension, wheels, tyres, bushes and if you want injectors another dyno / remap

46k for the SC is very low miles and shouldn't require a service, but seeing it's off do it and change the water pump while you're there IMO
 

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R56s brakes, RARB, pulley, Dave F on day one.
Then do the rest in any order later.
No point making it go faster on shit brakes.
 

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Does everyone make the assumption that a driver who mods their car are doing so in order to achieve a faster lap at the Nordschleif?
A lot of people have different priorities as they are using the car for different purposes.

Mines a daily driver.

I, for one, mod my car around how I drive which is engine first, then it will expose the deficiencies in the rest of the car. I will only find those deficiencies out when I drive at 9/10ths. On the road that is once every few weeks for about 3 or 4 miles at most. Then I realise I’m driving like a dick and slow down.
Maximum Acceleration I use all the time (well, not all the time but at least once or twice every trip - the occasional traffic light GP or on ramps onto the motorway) and is increasing my ‘active safety’
Maximum Deceleration I hardly ever use, and certainly don’t drive up to corners, slam the anchors on to ‘maximise my lap time’ on the school run.

My order for my R56 was engine (which burnt a valve) so engine again, then brake pads, then new shocks and a bit of poly bushing. Then a proper alignment.

Engine blew up properly for a 2nd time, so forged pistons, JCW turbo, 200 cell cat and larger inter cooler. Waiting for my stage 2 map....
Now looking at better suspension, mainly for comfort (I’m getting old) and control.
For how I drive my brakes are fine.

Each to their own
J
 

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I started off with pulley and exhaust. Went onto intercooler/injectors/cam/map all at the same time after that. Also did handling and braking mods etc

Now going to be changing to 17%/550's/Catcam/bytetronik? possibly

I probably wouldn't bother with injectors and map if you're not fitting a Cam?

I'm in Newcastle also - if you need a hand or anything give me a shout. Done all the work on mine myself
 

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It will be definitely going on the dyno at all stages to see what the afr's are and see is there is any knock. The reason for the not so perfect set up is I still need see if its going to float my boat , if all is well its straight in with more permanent and developed mods. I agree about the brakes , they work well until you put them under pressure and wow they show their weak side , even on a standard car.
Any particular dyno in mind?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Evotune , I also have a mate with a smaller dyno who may allow me to check the car out.
I am expecting great things from the extra 0.5Bar , but I think traction is going to be an issue , all being well a factory LSD and then as I say lets see if I like the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanx for the offer , I am looking forward to the upgrades to see if its going to be fast enough for a wile.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Does everyone make the assumption that a driver who mods their car are doing so in order to achieve a faster lap at the Nordschleif?
A lot of people have different priorities as they are using the car for different purposes.

Mines a daily driver.

I, for one, mod my car around how I drive which is engine first, then it will expose the deficiencies in the rest of the car. I will only find those deficiencies out when I drive at 9/10ths. On the road that is once every few weeks for about 3 or 4 miles at most. Then I realise I’m driving like a dick and slow down.
Maximum Acceleration I use all the time (well, not all the time but at least once or twice every trip - the occasional traffic light GP or on ramps onto the motorway) and is increasing my ‘active safety’
Maximum Deceleration I hardly ever use, and certainly don’t drive up to corners, slam the anchors on to ‘maximise my lap time’ on the school run.

My order for my R56 was engine (which burnt a valve) so engine again, then brake pads, then new shocks and a bit of poly bushing. Then a proper alignment.

Engine blew up properly for a 2nd time, so forged pistons, JCW turbo, 200 cell cat and larger inter cooler. Waiting for my stage 2 map....
Now looking at better suspension, mainly for comfort (I’m getting old) and control.
For how I drive my brakes are fine.

Each to their own
J
My Exact point , its a road car and as you say its just for my enjoyment. As long as I dont cause damage to the engine I will do the mods. Hence the dyno , I check the AFR's and DET.
 
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