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Discussion Starter #21
Looking good! Couple suggestions --- Manic usually recommends NGK 1422 plugs (heat range "8"), one heat range cooler than OEM's "7". When going over 300 WHP, you might consider heat range "9" plugs. Also, I don't see WMI as one of your mods. With all your head work, this is the best time to add WMI --- keep things clean and cooler while adding a bit more power. An 80 - 20 mix and added jets at each port bought me about 20 more WHP, compared to a 50 - 50 mix and only one jet in the ICI pipe.

Any chance you could post comparison specs for the fuel injectors --- your new ones and OEM? I've seen a few recommendations from experienced builders saying OEM FI isn't good enough for over 300HP, but they don't suggest a replacement part number. I'm well over 300WHP, right at 400ft-lbs torque, and still using OEM fuel system but starting to think about improvements. What are the symptoms indicating FI's are too small?
Do you have a part number for those colder plugs?

Water-Meth is definitely going to come in the future, but for now I wanted to make "stand alone" reliable power only with the DI.

As for the injectors, i only know what I read on the internet, many as well as the Peugeot fraction claim that the stock injectors have to stay open all the time over 300 hp because they reach max flow capacity.

The gm injectors have been documented by Opel drivers to be able to reach over 400hp with their stock hpfp.

Iam working on my own high capacity hpfp which should be able to flow 500hp in fuel, so I went with the bigger injectors. If it works it should be possible to put down 400hp with the DI system.






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Discussion Starter #22
I filed the Piston rings to the correct gap and assembled the pistons and my China rods. The rods have been measured and corrected by the local machine shop which did my head.


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Iam working on my own high capacity hpfp which should be able to flow 500hp in fuel, so I went with the bigger injectors. If it works it should be possible to put down 400hp with the DI system.
Hmmmm intriguing
 

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Do you have a part number for those colder plugs?

Water-Meth is definitely going to come in the future, but for now I wanted to make "stand alone" reliable power only with the DI.

As for the injectors, i only know what I read on the internet, many as well as the Peugeot fraction claim that the stock injectors have to stay open all the time over 300 hp because they reach max flow capacity.

The gm injectors have been documented by Opel drivers to be able to reach over 400hp with their stock hpfp.

Iam working on my own high capacity hpfp which should be able to flow 500hp in fuel, so I went with the bigger injectors. If it works it should be possible to put down 400hp with the DI system.

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Here's a link to the NGK page with my plugs === https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=10013 Looks like they've been upgraded to a slightly different part number --- from a "B" to a "G", however the specs are identical.

Originally, I wanted the same plugs used by ThePenl, a guy in Greece that built a really nice machine. Next time you have a week or so, check out his build thread --- https://www.minitorque.com/threads/thepenls-r56.25947/ Found out his plugs weren't available in the USA --- PN NGK R2554B-9 so I browsed a bunch of NGK sites and found a few others.

Thanx for the injector info. Be sure to keep us posted with your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Here's a link to the NGK page with my plugs === https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=10013 Looks like they've been upgraded to a slightly different part number --- from a "B" to a "G", however the specs are identical.

Originally, I wanted the same plugs used by ThePenl, a guy in Greece that built a really nice machine. Next time you have a week or so, check out his build thread --- https://www.minitorque.com/threads/thepenls-r56.25947/ Found out his plugs weren't available in the USA --- PN NGK R2554B-9 so I browsed a bunch of NGK sites and found a few others.

Thanx for the injector info. Be sure to keep us posted with your progress.
His build inspired me in the first place. I think themis used the Peugeot rczr plugs if iam not wrong? Should be easy getting them in Germany.

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Discussion Starter #26
Has anyone a recommendation for an low pressure fuel pump which fits in the fuel tank? Iam thinking of an internal walbro 255lph pump.



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Discussion Starter #27
More progress with the engine! The Peugeot manifold does look quite sexy.


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Gotta agree, looks super efficient. Even tho you've already done a test-fit, remember that the engine rolls (raises in front and lowers in back) under hard acceleration. Not a lot, but be prepared to trim some more "Plastik". Post some more pics with turbo and DP installed? When you get it back on the road, be prepared for problems with bonnet clearance under hard acceleration.
 
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Discussion Starter #29
Gotta agree, looks super efficient. Even tho you've already done a test-fit, remember that the engine rolls (raises in front and lowers in back) under hard acceleration. Not a lot, but be prepared to trim some more "Plastik". Post some more pics with turbo and DP installed? When you get it back on the road, be prepared for problems with bonnet clearance under hard acceleration.
Iam going to do that.

Clearance problems are a thing for my future self xD.


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Discussion Starter #30
My new low pressure fuel pump came today. I chose a walbro/ti automotive gss342 pump. It flows around 255lph and should be more than enough for my power goals. Also it should fit with a few mods in the stock fuel pump basket.


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Discussion Starter #31
Today I finished a big chunk of what i had to do.

While i was mounting everything, i realised the coolant line to the turbo didn't fit. I will have to buy the Peugeot one.


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Discussion Starter #32
The turbo doesn't have a blowoff, so i am going to install the stock 308 gti blowoff with my old GFB DV+. Unfortunately iam using Silikon hoses which were lying around, so it's quite the colour party..


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Discussion Starter #33
My progress is being halted by parts that I have to get, like the new crankshaft seal I destroyed by installing it like an idiot.

Today i looked into the stock lpfp. Taking the pump basket out was a breeze.

1. Remove the rear seat by lifting it.
2. Disconnect the plug by sliding it to the left.
3. Remove the metal ring by using a hammer and a screwdriver. Use the notches and hammer the ring anti-clockwise.
4. Slightly lift the bucket to access the fuel line on the pump. Remove it by pressing the button.
5. Unplug the connector with the blue cables.
6. Pull the busket out. Fuel is going to leak out.

The basket is easily dissembled.

The new walbro pump is surprisingly smaller. It fits loosely in the bucket, so I need to 3d print an adapter to fit it snuggly.

The original pump has in comparison to the walbro Plastik Gears and impellers.

I will also have to mashine an adapter to go from the fuel hose to the quick coupler.


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Just be aware that as you say, you need to bridge the gap between the old & new pump, otherwise on heavy cornering the basket loses its ability to work as a surge tank & the car will cut out under 1/2 tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Just be aware that as you say, you need to bridge the gap between the old & new pump, otherwise on heavy cornering the basket loses its ability to work as a surge tank & the car will cut out under 1/2 tank.
The gap between the pumps is the smallest Problem. The thing is that the basket can't stay the way it is because I can't use this suction system which was on the old pump which pulled fuel from the membrane on the button of the busket. It looks like the old pump pulled fuel from two ports.

Iam left with two options. Either cut the basket open or try to get the membrane system to work.

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Discussion Starter #36
I also thought of installing a small flap which let's fuel in, but closes when the fuel wants to exit the basket.

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Discussion Starter #37
The walbro fits perfectly in the basket with the 3d printed rings. The printed material is Petg which has very good chemical resistance.


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I could easily be missing something in the flesh rather than the pics but surely that will still work?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I could easily be missing something in the flesh rather than the pics but surely that will still work?
We won't know until I try it out!

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Youd be better off with a different pump. If the stock pump is the same as the R53 (I'm sure it is) then an aftermarket pump for a 2wd Audi tt is a direct fit
 
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