MiniTorque.com banner
1 - 20 of 133 Posts

·
Registered
2011 R56 N18 Mini Cooper S - 2012 R56 N16 Mini One
Joined
·
209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been lurking here for a while and posted the odd thing or 2, thought it was time to introduce myself.
Name is Luke, 53, in the print trade, currently residing in deepest darkest Essex with wife and 2 grown up kids.

Learned to drive in a mini 850 in the mid 80's, great fun little car. Had mostly boring family cars for the last 25 years (motorbikes before that) until my wife decided she wanted a mini when her last car had been flogged/kerbed to death. (about 2 months ago)

We started looking at One's and eventually both took one for a test drive.
I was hooked straight away. Loved it.
We looked at a few more One's and ended up with "Vicky" (reg ends in VVC)

Wheel Car Tire Vehicle Window


She has had the odd issue, new intake Vanos solenoid and clutch is slipping a bit (swear it wasnt when I test drove it). Is it possible to trash a clutch in 6 weeks?

Hunted for a couple of weeks for my Cooper S.
Sold my diesel Fiat Stilo estate and bought myself this little beauty.

Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Plant


This was after one of my first solo drives in it, on well known twisty b roads. Was so in love I had to jump out and take a photo.
Again, one or 2 issues.
Air con needed re-gas.
It had a split and badly repaired intake hose

Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive fuel system


Which I replaced with this

Car Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior


and currently have issue with turbo switching off and car going into limp mode when hot and driven hard, codes 2c56 and 2c58, reliably informed its the Turbo divertor valve, or at least thats the easiest and most likely place to start.

Still getting to know her and sorting post purchase issues. Would like to make a few changes, first on the list is to get rid of the run flats, unfortunately they have loads of tread left on them so I cant just bin them. Possibly coilovers, though dont want to go too low as I am old and have a bad back. Also want to sort a digital dash. Mini instruments are somewhat lacking........

Dont know much about Minis, 20 years since I did any spannering so tend to leave it to the pro's, but will have a go at the simpler stuff myself.

So thats me.

:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Welcome to the forum! Nice his & hers minis!

Like yourself, I also learnt to drive in an original Mini although mine was a 998cc.

My R56 MCS is similar to yours in Eclipse Grey. Naturally I'm a little biased but I think it suits the car well, since being on here it's had a few minor mods :)
 

·
Registered
2011 R56 N18 Mini Cooper S - 2012 R56 N16 Mini One
Joined
·
209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Eclipse grey definately the best colour.:D

My R56 MCS is similar to yours in Eclipse Grey. Naturally I'm a little biased but I think it suits the car well, since being on here it's had a few minor mods :)
Had a look at your project thread. Nice work.

This is my second month with my Mini and apart from a couple of small (thankfully) issues I havent really done much. Just got back to work full time from furlough so not much time for tinkering now. Want to ditch the run flats asap, then not really sure. Going to get the timing chain done as a pre-emptive thing. My car has done 55k miles so I think it would be wise.
 

·
Premium Member
2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
Joined
·
6,347 Posts
for timing chain you could at least have the tools installed to check it's timing accuracy, if still spot on, don't yet worry about it, or if it isn't correct, you know why and can plan action, not a massive task to check vs actual proper renewal cost, by proper I mean sump off and pump chain included +++, not half a job base chain and guides.
 

·
Registered
2011 R56 N18 Mini Cooper S - 2012 R56 N16 Mini One
Joined
·
209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
for timing chain you could at least have the tools installed to check it's timing accuracy, if still spot on, don't yet worry about it, or if it isn't correct, you know why and can plan action, not a massive task to check vs actual proper renewal cost, by proper I mean sump off and pump chain included +++, not half a job base chain and guides.
Good to know. On a bit of a budget, so anything that saves £££ is welcome. And if it comes to it will specify no half arsed job. Thank you.
 

·
Registered
2011 R56 N18 Mini Cooper S - 2012 R56 N16 Mini One
Joined
·
209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Had a bit of a problem with limp mode engageing when hot and under hard acceleration (5k revs +). Codes 2c56 and 2c58. I was reliably informed that it could probably be the Turbo Divertor valve (most likely, easiest first port of call etc). Part arrived today...

Table Wood Rectangle Camera Material property


Took the old one off and it does not rebound as much as the new one when depressed. New one on the right.

Toy Gas Wood Auto part Cylinder


Fitted it this afternoon (in the rain) and the car still runs :D.
I may have dropped a bolt and spent 40 minutes fishing for it with a magnetic probe but we wont talk about that.

Cant really test to see if it has solved the issue until rain stops and roads dry out a bit.

Still, happy with my first proper repair.

Need to find some miniature long reach tools and smaller hands from somewhere.
 

·
Registered
2011 R56 N18 Mini Cooper S - 2012 R56 N16 Mini One
Joined
·
209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well that was an interesting drive. No more limp mode but car has gone from being a proper hooligan to a much more sedate drive. Still fast but not scary and unpredictable like it was before. Tempted to put the old valve back in :p

Was getting a bit of torque steer in first and second before. All thats gone now.

On the plus side all of the rev range is useable now. Was scared to go over about 4.5k revs with the old valve in.

If the old valve was not rebounding as much as the new one what does that mean performance wise?
From the codes I am guessing it was getting to much boost (is there such a thing?)
Was the old valve not fully opening or not fully closing?
So many questions.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Most likely not opening properly. Thus creating more manifold pressure. That torque steer is that extra boost pulling on the wheels. I have yet to look but, I bet there is and adjustable one available. My 2019 is in Melting Silver Metallic. My last one(2015 MCS),oh how I miss her, was in Sunfire Orange. Absolute rocket because the diverter valve would stick on hard acceleration.
After Mini fixed it I traded it in for the ‘19.
 

·
Registered
2011 R56 N18 Mini Cooper S - 2012 R56 N16 Mini One
Joined
·
209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Crazy how easy these Minis are to fall in love with. Been about 3 months now and I am still in the honeymoon period
As Flasheart once said " treat your plane (Mini) like your woman.....get inside her 5 times a day and take her to heaven and back ". :D
 

·
Registered
2011 R56 N18 Mini Cooper S - 2012 R56 N16 Mini One
Joined
·
209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Bit of an update.
Ditched the runflats.
Fitted 4 of these baby's
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire


Wheel Car Tire Vehicle Window


Also replaced all the easy to reach induction piping.
Ditched the Forge hose as matching the others was just too expensive.

Motor vehicle Automotive design Personal luxury car Automotive exterior Auto part


Replaced oil feed heatsheild as well since this photo.

Also had timing chain done.
Timing was out by a fair amount.

White Automotive tire Motor vehicle Style Automotive design


Made a huge difference to the way she runs obviously.
Just hope running it with a stretched chain hasnt done any damage.

Still chasing intermittant turbo issue.
Fitting new pressure convertor and checking over vacuum piping at the weekend (weather permitting)
 

·
Registered
2011 R56 N18 Mini Cooper S - 2012 R56 N16 Mini One
Joined
·
209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Fitting new pads and disks today and struggling to get calipers back on. Pads are so thick I have to force capliper on and wheels are binding. They are EBC yellowstuff pads.
Should they be this tight? They have a red wear in coating, is this designed to bind and wear off quickly?
Dont know what to do. Whether to put old pads back in or not?
 
1 - 20 of 133 Posts
Top