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2007 Mini Cooper S R56
627 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi chaps!!!!
After giving it a great thought and because a lot of the forum members asked how (some even started copying the whole process from my thread (thread name: Slowly …but evolving)) I am making a list and a basic HOW TO regarding the famous r56 oil heat exchanger and installing a new Oil cooler. I would like this whole thread to be a place regarding all the forum members which are using oil coolers to sum up all the pros and cons of using an oil cooler (as I was the first one to mess with the topic I never got a straight answer from anyone!! So I became the Ginny pig  ) Just to be mentioned. We made a Garage Called RAT GARAGE which is primarily focused to take our cars to the next level in terms of feel and performance. Just a team to gather our tools and start working in our cars (scirocco, ep3 and my MINI) 
Shopping List:

Oil cooler!!! Yeap you need one 13 row….the wide one (30cm approx.x 5cm)
Thermostat! .80 deg.CelciusCan be done without one. Higher mod cost but…..more efficient and faster oil temp rising to normal operation area.
oil cooler adapter plate (AN-10)(even a cheap one can do the job).These may even have 1/8NPT threads so you can bolt on oil or water pressure/temp sensors
AN-10 hose: 6ft is enough
AN-10 fittings (don’t buy cheap ones… will regret it)
2 AN-10 banjo bolts with all the necessary copper washers (to replace the stupid AN fittings that come with adapter plate
Hose clamps to make tight connections between thermostat and the hoses (there are 2 types of mocal stats. Only the racing (expensive) doesn’t need clamps cause it has fittings itself).
Orings (gasket set) between the Oil cooler filter an the oil cooler adapter plate. Check REALOEM Stealers: 11428643747
Rubber patches so that the oil Cooler wont attach directly on the crash bar creating vibrations which can cause damage to it.
Thermal protection foam hose (the one we use for water hoses so that they don’t freeze during Winter ) so that the oil cooler hoses don’t rub against each other or our crash bar producing high pitch noise during revving (just like an r53 compressor!!!)
Basic steps….
Take off front Bumber….Everyone Knows How (me thinks)Drill 2 holes carefully so that you wont mess any water hoses or the radiators. Pull the water hose inside the crash bar

(headlight water injector line) and place it above the IC
Zip tie the hoses at the Crash bar so they don’t rub against your Air condition Lines causing catastrophic damage to the system.

Next step is to remove all the water from the radiators so that you can take out the OEM heat exchanger which is mounted with 5 hex bolts into the oil cooler filter. Remove all the previous gaskets (4 orings) and replace them with the new ones. After you mount the Oil cooler plate you have to mount The banjo bolts. (my plate had to be drilled cause it had only 4 holes….china product!!!!) These should face downwards so they heve enough space against the Turbo water pump.

Next thing is to calculate all the hose dimensions so that they don’t rub against chassis, electrical cables, hoses or transmission area. (Note that a sound resonator (hot side intercooler pipe) delete can make enough space for an easier way so that hoses don’t bend in more than 90degree turns. And now we made our selves to the final mounting point of the oil cooler. As you may See I had to deal with my centrally located spot lights (yeah you may hate them but I love rally style lights) so that’s what these strange metallic brackets are. Mini has an extremely hard steel crash bar. I broke almost 4 4mm cobalt drills to get through it to make mounting points.under the brackets yoyu can use rubber patches to avoid unwanted vibrations. During final fitment tests you will realize that some minor trimming of the front bumber is needed so that the air has a cleaner path and trimming of the front grille internally to avoid pushing the oil cooler against the AC radiator.

All the measurements where taken by myself in a period of six months with oil temp sensor in the oil pan. A mini cooper s/JCW R56 especially when dealing with track circumstances can face oil temperatures of up to 140-145 degrees celsius. Even cruising down the highway can cause 122 degrees celcius at 65 mph and more than 132 degrees celsius at speeds of 80 mph (constant). That means that oil gets so hot that it actually ‘’breaks’’ the viscosity and loses its lubrication capabilities becoming thinner and burnt in a shorter period than the BMW dictates. That’s why our minis…… Burn so much oil BOOOOOMMMMM!!! You didn’t expect that ! I personally before installing the oil cooler didn’t use oil until the first 2000km of each oil change… VOILA. Which actually means the oil loses its characteristics at that point.
After installing the oil cooler
•…… cruising speed 65 mph ….oil temp 102-105 degrees celsius.
•Even in higher constant speeds oil tends to be under 115 degrees celsius. Performs great in track too due to high speeds.
•Oil pressure (yeah I even measured that) is a little higher due to colder oil and it doesn’t fall under the OEM working specs even if oil has to fill the oil hoses and cooler.

On the other hand
•At low speeds in traffic the oil cooler doesn’t perform so well….but there is no chance you will ever reach 120 degrees Celsius.
•I have noticed a slight higher consumption which is because the car runs colder, thus richer.
•There will be some noise coming from the oil pump, entering the campine. Especially if you don’t insulate the hoses and brackets as proposed.
•You must always check for oil lickage especially when the mod is finished.

Thanks for your reading. Any thoughts and help would be appreciated

Rat Garage Master Engineer

Vaios Liakos :cools:

[email protected]

1,602 Posts
Vaios what oil weight are you running?
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