I own a r56 s Sparkling Silver, 2007. After a few hours driving it, i thought it could be good to...Upgrade a lil bit
So this is pics from day one
Then, i quickly upgrade...and here is an upgrade list :
Engine :
PP performance Tune
GTX2867R GEN2 with his 3" downpipe
Akrapovik exhaust
AEM air intake
WAGNER intercooler
TIAL Q50 BOV
greddy profec boost controller
Snow performance under my bed, not mounted yet
All the internals ( DP pistons, ZRP rods) under the bed, not mounted yet
Exterior :
Spyder F56 Style headlight
LED tail light
OZ utlraleggerra 17 (white, of course) on order and coming soon
Bilstein B14 coilover
currently looking for JCW body kit
I have been on dyno once, result was 200WHP, while i'm faster than cars that have at least 300HP (such as Golf 7R, audi S3 etc.) so there is something weird...:blink:
Looking good! I like your WMI on the winter manifold. Go for an updated tune before the next dyno pull, then post a chart. Should be 300+WHP. Really interested in your boost ramp. Are you using an external boost controller?
we dynotested before working on the internals, but it showed only 213 WHP, while it runs stronger than car that put 300WHP on the dyno...
anyway, we are heading for the 400hp mark.
I spent the summer working in the caribbean based in Barbados - amazing level of mechanical skill and talent everywhere, and some really nicely modified examples. Looking forward to seeing how this progresses.
I actually met a colleague from Trinidad and turns out he's already a member of MT, and he regularly races his R53 at Bushy Park.
Are you not afraid it won’t last long with a stock (open) deck block if you’re shooting for 400 hp?
I’m asking because I didn’t go closed deck either and therefore I don’t want to get the boost up too high to keep everything reliable and aim for numbers around 300 hp instead.
Don’t get me wrong this is cool and a good amount of effort. But I remember reading this thread before and lol’ing at the lack of attention to handling or stopping whilst chucking a load of power up front.
I drove a stock R56 once and after a while forgot it didn’t have the same brake setup as my R53, this led to some brown trousers at a roundabout
@lupodo, sorry my ignorance but why do you go to a TIAL Q50 BOV instead of a Diverter valve? I have read, and over the internet there are many opinions, that going to a BOV may impact the MAF sensor etc... So, my big question here is, why should you pick a BOV instead of a DV? Thanks for your time.
According to the pics, this is a "UK build" --- no MAF installed. However, if the OEM build had a DV in the turbo, you probably should have used a DV replacement instead of a BOV. I get all kinds of CEL's when I try to configure my DV as a BOV, but I have a MAF. And, depending on the specifics of your boost problem, this could be the root cause.
Sneed4speed sent a new block real quick to me, so I'm waiting for the blockguard from MCMP engineering before putting all these things together
old block have been sent to Veicomer for Darton sleeve installation, so I would have a spare rock solid short block
oh i also fitted a QUAIFE LSD in deh
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