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Micke's Shitbox R53

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shitbox
46K views 322 replies 38 participants last post by  Micke 
#1 ·
Shitbox R53

Bought in 2017 from the first owner to use as a daily driver. Purpose was to keep it stock but things escalated quickly and the end result can be seen below.
Tire Vehicle Wheel Automotive tire Automotive lighting


Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Window


Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Hood


Grille Automotive lighting Car Vehicle Hood


Car Vehicle White Motor vehicle Speedometer


Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Plant Automotive design


Engine
  • Kavs 17 % pulley
  • GP intercooler
  • Cat Cams 469
  • Bosch 550cc injectors
  • APS 265 fuel pump
  • Bytetronik FA53
  • ATI Super Damper crankshaft pulley
  • Orranje stealth intake
  • Samco intake hose
  • Janspeed manifold + ”TomCat”
  • Simons resonated 2,5” catback exhaust
  • Baffled sump (KND plates)
  • Kavs idler pulley
  • Mishimoto radiator
Suspension
  • ST XTA coilovers (with 6kg rear springs)
  • Whiteline rear ARB
  • Mini One front ARB 16mm with Strongflex bushes (not installed)
  • R56 trailing arms
  • Hardrace lower RCA’s
  • OMP lower brace
  • OMP upper strut brace
  • Cabrio braces
  • Powerflex front control arm rear bushes
  • Strongflex steering rack mount (not installed)
Drivetrain
  • Quaife LSD
  • TTV flywheel (not installed)
  • Powerflex lower engine mount inserts
  • Powerflex gearbox mount inserts
  • Powerflex upper engine mount insert
Brakes
  • R56S Front Brakes
  • Hobo spec brake ducts
  • Carbotech XP8 pads on the front
  • Carbotech AX6 pads in the rear
  • HEL braided brake lines
Wheels & Tyres
  • Oz Ultraleggera 7x17 et37 + Toyo R888R 215/45
  • Sparco 5mm spacers on the front
  • Stud conversion
Exterior
  • Aero front grills
  • Aero spoiler
  • Track Developments larger scoop (not installed)
  • "GP" wing (not installed
  • Rear wiper delete
  • OEM short antenna
  • Black belt line
  • White mirror covers
  • LED tail lights
  • R50 side scuttles with dark indicators
  • TRS tow strap with KND adapter
  • Color coded headlight trim
  • Color coded gas cap
Interior
  • Recaro SP-JK seats (JDM Evo 7)
  • Coolerworx Shifter with Quaife style knob
  • Retrimmed steering wheel
  • Alcantara handbrake gaiter
  • Innovate MTX-L Plus AFR gauge
  • Ultragauge
  • R56 GP2 seat delete
  • Black carpet
  • RRS 2kg extinguisher with Puretrack mount
  • R50 shelf under steering wheel
  • R50 ”glovebox”
  • Union flag rear view mirror cover
 

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#4 ·
Thanks tcbw. Seeing your car gave me some new ideas, good that the winter is coming there'll be enough time to make a plan.

The wheels really made a big change, not only in weight but also ride quality. Even if the profile is lower, the ride is smoother as they're not runflats. And also now it looks different from the other Minis I see on the street.

As I first car years ago I had a Polo G40 already stock was a lot of fun but with a pulley, schrick cam and a tune (or chip back then) it really was a pocket rocket. Unfortunately I was young and stupid and the handling was not the most important thing back then :)
 
#6 ·
I bought a repair set from Lederzentrum in Germany. Their distributor in UK is www.colourlock.com
I'm really pleased with the result. The after picture was taken just after the dye dried, after some time you I don't notice the difference. Of course it also depends how badly your bolster is worn, mine had some pretty wide cracks so it wont be perfect unfortunately.
 
#8 ·
Thanks citro. There are still some small things that bother me and require attention, after that I'll start thinking about the mods.

ABout the wheels: yes, it the difference of 6kg was between a set of rim + tyre. To be exact, it was the following configuration:
- S-Spokes (7x17) + 205/45/17 Continental runflat
- OZ Ultraleggera (7x17) + 215/40/17 Nokian Z Line
 
#9 ·
Today by mistake I found out that a company not so far from where I live is the importer of Powerflex, quite a surprise. I checked their website and the have some bushes for the Mini in stock also. On my way from work I stopped by and bought this, no need to order it abroad.



I also have a new Lemförder lower mount waiting so without waiting too long I popped it in. Now I just have to find a suitable moment to fit it and enjoy the vibrations

 
#11 ·
Kiitos JKo! I laughed with tcbw that the amount of Finns here just raised by 50% :lol: Ah yes, the wheel gap. It really hurts my eyes but I don't really want to put any coilovers for the winter but they're on the top of the prio list. At the moment I'm leaning towards ST XTA, seems to be a good allrounder as I have thought about some track days during next year.
 
#12 ·
Not much going on lately, making already plans for 2018 and thinking where to get money for them :crying:

Couple of days ago I got a parcel from amazon which contained this:


I have to say that the bulbs made a huge difference, probably because it looked as the ones on the car were from 2004...

Also during the last morning I noticed that it was hesitating a bit while starting, probably because the mornings are getting colder. Picked up a new Exide 64Ah battery and the problem is gone. The old one probably would anyway die during the winter.
 
#13 ·
Unfortunately winter is around the corner :scared: On Saturday it was time to get the winter tires on some wheels that I have bought not so long ago. They're not the prettiest but for 1 winter I can live with them. They're Team Dynamics Monza 7x16 et45



At the same time the tires were taken from the Ultras and checked on the balancing machine and unfortunately 1 needs repair :crying: Fortunately it can be repaired, today I should have an estimate. Also called a placed to have the whole set stripped and powdercoated. I have thought to leave them white, in my opinion they look really well.

Also I received a nice surprise today in the post :laugh:

 
#19 ·
The TD's have a double PCD so they look like crap without the caps. Probably going to use them only for 1 winter as I'm looking for some super or ultraleggeras in 16".

Yesterday I picked up the bent OZ from the repair and it looks good. The only problem I had with all the wheels where the centre spigots as they have been sitting there since 2010 and never been taken out or greased. The spigots are from aluminium but they have a securing ring which is probably made out of steel and was all rusted...



After soaking them in WD40 it was hammer time. After struggling for a while I managed to get all the rings out from the wheels but the hammer and other tools didn't do any good to the spigots and they're bent so I'll have to get a new set from somewhere.

I talked to a guy about stripping and painting them. I'll let you know when I get them back (it seems that there's a waiting time of few weeks at the moment)
 
#21 ·
That's not good news. I'll try to source a set of 16" wheels to use them on track but until then it'll be on the 17" OZ.

And talk about a money pit: sourced some R56S calipers for the front. I'll get them rebuilt in the winter and probably going to get a set of rears also to have fresh brakes all around.

And started looking for a GRS motorsport or Airtec intercooler as I decided to get a 17% pulley. If you anyone knows of any, let me know :blushing:
 
#25 ·
Not much happening here, just making plans for 2018 and trying to stick to them. Unfortunately there might be a quaife group buy which is really tempting...

Today in the morning went to change the engine oil. Unfortunately didn't even get started as the damn oil filter housing wouldn't move at all. In the beginning tried with a small ratchet, after that a longer one and the b***h wouldn't move :cursing: Unfortunately today is the Finnish independence day so biggest part of the shops are closed. Will have to get a breaker bar tomorrow and give it another go.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Todai finally I got time to give the oil change another try. Before going to a lift you can rent, I tried to loosen the filter cap. I have bought a 500mm breaker bar and nothing, didn't help. I tried with cold and hot engine, cooling the cap while engine was warmed, all the possible tricks I have found on the internet. I found a bar that would fit over the breaker bar (almost 1m lenght) and nothing :cursing: I have no idea what kind of ape tightened the last time :mads: Taking the whole housing out of the car was not an option, with 0 degrees outside and no space to do it. i gave it a final try and with both feet on the ground and pushing with both hands, it was finally loose :thumbup1: At first I thought that I broke the whole thing as there was a loud bang. After that it was time to change the oil so I headed to the gas station with the lift. After 5500 miles the oil definitely needed a change. Decided to give Mobil 1 5-30 a try.



As you can see, the first oil change with the Mini was an adventure.

As for 2018, the minimum plan is:

- Coilovers
- Adjustable rear control arms
- Strutbrace
- 17% pulley
- Intercooler
- Intake
- R56 brakes

That should drain my bank account enough. Fucking Minis :lol:
 
#28 ·
Thanks for your input JKo. I want to attend to a couple of track days during next summer so it's good to know what oil to use. I've seen that some people use 5-40 on the track, what kind of oil do you use in the Mini? I'll be changing the oil at the end of the winter so could use the correct grade.

I've read only good things about the lower OMP brace and thought about the OMP combo but maybe the upper one can wait in that case :)
 
#29 ·
5/30 is one of the approved oil grades, the other is 0/30 so there's nothing wrong with your choice, however...........JKo is right about oil temps on track. Having added an oil cooler and still getting high temps, I have now got BMW original M Power 10/60 which I'm going to use, we'll see how that helps preserve the motor not that I've had any issues, I just change the oil more. But this oil is for very high rpm too so why not imo.
 
#31 ·
And Mobil 5W-30 is BMW LL04 approved too, so it certainly is the "correct" oil. And surprisingly it even has a higher HTHS (thicker oil film @150°C) than Castrol Edge of the same viscosity. But I'd still go thicker for the summer, especially if planning to go track driving. I currently use 5W-40 Fuchs Titan Race Pro S around the year. Works in the winter and is better at high temps than most 5W-40 oils. I used to use Motul 300V and Redline, and still would if they didn't cost an arm and a leg.

Are you planning to use that 10W-60 for daily driving too or just for track?
 
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