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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2003 Mini Cooper S R53
122.000 miles

I bought a neglected mini and the first thing I did? I installed a 15% pulley. This accelerated the deterioration process.

1. A few months ago I was driving on the motorway and BOOM my mini sounds like a tractor.
...After reconditioning the supercharger, mechanic put everything back into place I have codes:
P1229, P0108, P0107, P1109, P1689, P1688
they are Intermittent
Today the car is driving fine no codes, but I know they will come back.

I think I traced the problem but not sure. The MAP or TMAP
Sometimes when I rev up the engine and release the gas pedal - First the Traction Control light comes on, after a few miles the check engine light is lit and sometimes limp mode turns on. During acceleration car jerks.

I am using my Torque OBDII app and have my Intake Manifold Pressure guage on the display.
- when the revs are falling, and /or
- when I decelerate in gear with my foot off the pedal (there is vaccum or pressure is lowest in the manifold)
the app shows the Intake Manifold Pressure jump briefly to maxed 2.36 bar and only then the codes pop up.

with a 15% pulley 2.36 Bar is unlikely to be produced in the intake manifold (expecially when decelerating) so is the MAP faulty?

Please help, do I need a new MAP, MAF?, TMAP?, where are they located?



2. I have the 163 hp version. I heard that ecu tuning this engine can gain no more than 170hp is this true?
I am running a 15% reduction pulley.

UPDATE: Yes, the ECU tune without any mods can give you approx. 7hp
THANX

3. I want to buy 550cc injectors Bosch 0280158117.

LEARNED THAT: After installing those injectors the InterCooler has to be raised but only when using EV6 to EV1 PLASTIC adapters, NOT
when using the PIGTAIL adapters. THANX!

UPDATE: I bought the 0280158096 injectors from a Ford ST 225 for 65 quid on ebay. The EV6 to EV1 pigtail adapters cost 3.3 $ each + 11 $$$$$ postage, usa.
 

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Not sure about your map sensor problem but it is located on the front left hand side of the intake manifold. I can log my readings for you to compare although I'm sure someone would be able to guide you on what it should be doing and when.

Mapping a standard R53 won't get you more than 7hp, the supercharger dictates how much air can go in to the engine and that can only be changed by reducing the pulley not by changing a value in the ECU (obviously a remap much more complicated than just changing numbers in boxes)

The intercooler has to come off to get to the injectors as the fuel rail sits directly underneath the cooler so there is no way of removing them otherwise. They are easy to fit but you won't be able to drive the car without getting them mapped as it will be fueling allover the place. If your only running a pulley then 550's are unnecessary unless you are going to add some other bits as well before you for them. If you plan on staying on 17% you could just fit some JCW 380 injectors and get a JCW map flashed on there
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the information,

I just got my Mini fitted with the 380cc injectors and DNA Mapped the car. Increased rev range to 7K. Im running a 15 % puley and a K&N panel filter. The car knows what to do when you press or let go the accelerator, its smoother, power delivery more consistent. I did not notice any power increase below 4k rpm but noticeable power increase above 4K rpm. Thanx

The Intake Manifold pressure Too Low code P0108 was caused by the Fuel Pressure Regulator Pipe - old rubber did not manage and the pipe came off... I am loosing boost...
Will keep you posted
 

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2006 R53
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The tmap sensor output includes atmospheric pressure in its output. What this means in real terms is you can remove 1bar (at sea level) from whatever read you're getting. What we normally think of as vacuum is just pressure at less than atmospheric, if you get my drift. I've just had trouble with the fpr vacuum line. no need to replace it, a bit of 3mm internal diameter tubing will replace the perished rubber bit no probs
 

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I actually fit these injectors and mapped the car for oxygen4 yesterday using a custom DNA tune to suit the ST 225 Injectors :)

It seems that the intake manifold has been off in the past as the injector clips were missing and someone has used a random non-original vacuum line between the rail and intake manifold which doesn't even fit so keeps popping off, have advised to get it replaced as I didn't have any to hand, as above just needs a bit of rubber tubing :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Ok
on top of the 15% pulley I recently installed the +2% lightweight crank pulley, and yesterday I One-Balled the exhaust, soo it's running on 17%

I still have the problem... most of the time car runs great, but sometimes under load car stutters hard...(like you would press and release throttle rapidly... ) sometimes goes straight into Limp mode, check engine light and esp light... Am thinking of changing MAP sensors...I am waiting for a obd scan tool to diagnose further. please advise, :tongue_smilie::p complete solution - how to fix mini now :tongue_smilie::p.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
OK,
I said to myself, I am tired of car jerkiness!!! sooo I went to buy a MAP sensor.
Eurocarparts have two. Bought one, installed it myself and guess what. NOTHING! The car starts but wont keep engine rpm at idle and dies. Disconnected the cable - engine holds idle.
Reinstalled the OEM BMW T-MAP, adjusted the red dot to the middle - see picture... works

Am driving hard now to see if the codes come back...


 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Just an advice, NEVER use anything else than genuine BMW MINI engine sensors.
Yes Sir!
Just bought the proper BMW T-MAP sensor at 1320. Installed it myself.... did ECU reset on the spot... car worked fine for 20-30 miles on the motorway - No codes anymore, great acceleration... BUT.... after like 30 miles drive the car is not accelerating as good as previously, sluggish acceleration and a little yoyo jerkiness is noticeable, car lost a LOT of power just like that. I think I need to change the other MAP sensor... please advise,
 

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I had similar issues, and like -iD, I had to change both sensors to cure the fault. A couple of your codes point to the throttle body, is this clean? But they also could be effect, rather than cause. Oh the joy of diagnostics!
 

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Just delved into the codes a bit more and also the brain is starting to work a bit! Had a R53 in with P1688 fault code. This is for the 'charger bypass valve... turned out to be the crank pulley breaking up. That bits not much use as you've replaced that, so possible BPV?
 

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I have the same fault code p1688 new sensors, new crank pulley and a working bypass valve.

Got a severe misfire. Plugs leads fine
 

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I have the same fault code p1688 new sensors, new crank pulley and a working bypass valve.

Got a severe misfire. Plugs leads fine
The trouble with P codes, it's only what information the ecu receives, try's to work it out and comes to an assumption. Thus it's not always the fault on the car that's shown on the screen. Some times you've got to get in there and test various sensors or units to get to the real fault, or start swapping out parts.

If you've got a misfire, have a look at the plugs first to see what condition they are in and which one isn't sparking.
 

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The trouble with P codes, it's only what information the ecu receives, try's to work it out and comes to an assumption. Thus it's not always the fault on the car that's shown on the screen. Some times you've got to get in there and test various sensors or units to get to the real fault, or start swapping out parts.

If you've got a misfire, have a look at the plugs first to see what condition they are in and which one isn't sparking.

I totally agree. Pcodes give a direction, not the solution.

I had P1688 too some months ago, and the tricky part is to defined weither the description of the code (not enough boost) is the cause OR the consequence.
I looked at it first as the consequence, so I checked (and actually change some of them) bypass, belt, crank pulley, throttle body...
and it was still the same... so finally I looked at the code as the cause, and just the map sensor was the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
So... I recently bought the T-MAP and used sand paper to clean the rusted no.3 ignition coil … now I replaced both BMW MAP Sensor $$ and GUESS WHAT!!!
it didn't do nothing...

I finally got myself a working OBD2 adapter after testing 15units!! bought two that worked
In my case the situation is ... P0326 Knock Sensor


Checked the Bypass Valve and its smooth ok,
I watched the Air Intake Temps, going down to 18 celsius, so I thought the IC is good,
Watched the T-MAP readings and the Intake Manifold Pressure going up to 1.12 Bar so no leaks,
I erased the ECU codes Using the app and only the P0326 kept comming back.

I am running on 99 Octane Tesco... Changed the fuel filter myself 3 months ago. As you know I had the ECU tune done after installing a 15% pulley and 380cc injectors…. since then I added a 2%CP and OneBalled,… I’m thinking hard here..!!
I open the hood and start messing around, taking ignition cables off and on the coil… I press down on the ignition cables towards the spark plugs.. and hear a click on two cylinders.
I clear the codes, ECU reset, and BOOM... a big surge of power,

Are the Ignition cables somehow keep slipping off the spark plugs during engine vibrations or what..It is hard to distinguish if the yoyo - jerkiness - poor acceleration, is caused by a real hardware problem or a software ECU tune,... right now the car still is not accelerating as smoothly as previously, the power comes and goes ... ordered a new ignition pack.


UPDATE:
Changed the ignition coil with cables and it feels better but it did not kill the Knock sensor code
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Today I located the knock sensor cable and... !!!!
The mechanic that replaced the SC did not place the Knock sensor cable properly, AND it got ripped by the radiator fan.!!!!
Soldered up and no codes anymore,... HUGE acceleration BOOM

How unexpected/stupid/simple can a solution be?
 
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