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Luke that’s gutting to see mate.

Keep your chin up, lessons are sometimes learned the hard way. Aside from that you still did a great rebuild.

Perhaps wait a week and see how you feel later on. You’ve gone to this much effort and expense, if I were you I would have it fixed rather than throwing a cheap stock engine back in.

Good luck with it what ever route you go.
 

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Discussion Starter #402
What are you suggesting with the pics?

I had wondered whether the skirt design of the JE's was different from OEM. I'd never put them together to look. Angle wise I would say those squirters look to be in the same position.
 

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Bugger
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What are you suggesting with the pics?

I had wondered whether the skirt design of the JE's was different from OEM. I'd never put them together to look. Angle wise I would say those squirters look to be in the same position.
JE have caused issues on a few engine builds with their skirt design


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not so much a suggestion but just curious what you or others may think from the pics. It is hard to tell if my piston skirt is down quite as far as yours and it does look like the jets are similar, mine were undisturbed which is why I thought they were worth showing for comparison although my rods are different. I do think the curved area is closer to the jet on yours and I was wondering about clearance below the crank and the piston and the piston to the jet. Fwiw I don't think the jets are causal, possibly a tight bearing if nothing fouled, it is normal to look at measurements from the pin to the crown or skirt on aftermarket pistons, still, what matters is if you have your other crank and rods or perhaps the block, it may all go again with minimal losses in one combination or another hopefully.
 

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Bugger
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Well that has been helpful thanks
Lol sorry was hard to type a full reply when I was on a horse. It was a metal expansion issue with the skirts, they grew a significant amount and impacted with the squirters, it wasn't shown when they were cold and cold cranked.
 

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Gutted for you mate, were the oil squirters not lined up or were the pistons fitted the wrong way around ? They are a real pain, for those that don’t know they don’t lock into place you have to line them all up and tighten but as you tighten them they turn so a real pita you have to hold them and tighten them, my pistons had a notch out the skirt on one side so you
could fit the piston the wrong way around also.
 

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Discussion Starter #412
not so much a suggestion but just curious what you or others may think from the pics. It is hard to tell if my piston skirt is down quite as far as yours and it does look like the jets are similar, mine were undisturbed which is why I thought they were worth showing for comparison although my rods are different. I do think the curved area is closer to the jet on yours and I was wondering about clearance below the crank and the piston and the piston to the jet. Fwiw I don't think the jets are causal, possibly a tight bearing if nothing fouled, it is normal to look at measurements from the pin to the crown or skirt on aftermarket pistons, still, what matters is if you have your other crank and rods or perhaps the block, it may all go again with minimal losses in one combination or another hopefully.
Yes I must admit it does look like your piston design is slightly different at the skirt. When I get them out I will compare.

I have the original block, crank, rods & now a set of 4 decent OEM pistons from both blocks. So perhaps rebuilding this one to a standard bore is an option.

Lol sorry was hard to type a full reply when I was on a horse. It was a metal expansion issue with the skirts, they grew a significant amount and impacted with the squirters, it wasn't shown when they were cold and cold cranked.
No worries, I've tracked down Jove & I'll drop him a pm to see if I can find out more. Who was the other person you mentioned and do you have contact details?
 

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Discussion Starter #413
not so much a suggestion but just curious what you or others may think from the pics. It is hard to tell if my piston skirt is down quite as far as yours and it does look like the jets are similar, mine were undisturbed which is why I thought they were worth showing for comparison although my rods are different. I do think the curved area is closer to the jet on yours and I was wondering about clearance below the crank and the piston and the piston to the jet. Fwiw I don't think the jets are causal, possibly a tight bearing if nothing fouled, it is normal to look at measurements from the pin to the crown or skirt on aftermarket pistons, still, what matters is if you have your other crank and rods or perhaps the block, it may all go again with minimal losses in one combination or another hopefully.
Gutted for you mate, were the oil squirters not lined up or were the pistons fitted the wrong way around ? They are a real pain, for those that don’t know they don’t lock into place you have to line them all up and tighten but as you tighten them they turn so a real pita you have to hold them and tighten them, my pistons had a notch out the skirt on one side so you
could fit the piston the wrong way around also.
Don't know. Yes I did everything you said, holding whilst tightening etc, rotating the assembly after installing each one. Everything was clearing.
 

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Bugger
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No worries, I've tracked down Jove & I'll drop him a pm to see if I can find out more. Who was the other person you mentioned and do you have contact details?
I'm not sure Alex is on forums or Facebook anymore, I will drop him a text and see. (He bought my old Cooper S) and had a full build done with JE's etc and he failed under load on track with spun bearings and I'm 99% certain they found the squirters in the sump after. They didn't happen as quickly as yours however the circumstances were similar, I recall a few issues in America as well (these were all circa 2009) when people were just starting to build these motors.
 

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Yes I must admit it does look like your piston design is slightly different at the skirt. When I get them out I will compare.

I have the original block, crank, rods & now a set of 4 decent OEM pistons from both blocks. So perhaps rebuilding this one to a standard bore is an option.



No worries, I've tracked down Jove & I'll drop him a pm to see if I can find out more. Who was the other person you mentioned and do you have contact details?
Must admit, now mine is a standard bottom end I do think why did I bother with the forged bits before.. Works just as well
 

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Must admit, now mine is a standard bottom end I do think why did I bother with the forged bits before.. Works just as well
Did exactly the same built a no expense spare engine and it was awful on both occasions had nothing but trouble. Stock block out of a 100k car is taking 400hp no issues so far, granted it won’t last forever but nothing a good refresh won’t sort.
 

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A friend here in the US rebuilt his Firebird V8. Was tuning it on a dyno and similar thing happened. He put it back together and did it again! Hang in there!
 

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Discussion Starter #419
I'm back baby!!

Engine has been re rebuilt. Picked it up at the start of the week and now in the process of running it in for a couple of hundred miles before going up to 1320 again on Thursday to check over the map and AFR's. There is currently an odd noise in 5th & 6th through 2k - 3k RPM's which we are struggling to diagnose. However it seems to go well so it's a bit of a mystery.

Needs a full geometry setup as it's all over the shop at the moment.

I have mocked up a cardboard oil cooler cover with 3 x 40mm holes to test this week. Currently I'm sitting around the 90's with 20C ambient temps in city driving. Bringing the car home on the A1 without a cover meant the oil didn't break 80C the whole 2 hour drive. I think a full cover will be necessary for the road, however might still knock up the basic design with the holes and blank them off accordingly to suit various conditions.
 

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Great news, good to see it back

Your oil temps sound very similar to mine with the stock heat exchanger.

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