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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is not as straight forward as the 1.5 hrs that MINI quote for fitting, so I have done a guide as a supplement to the official instructions that contain a very major error.

1. Remove the cover and cowl above the battery.
First remove the bolt near the windscreen.


Then the plastic nut.


The cover then just pulls up, some force is required


2. Then disconnect the battery, negative first. I have pictured this, because if you don't know which is +ve and -ve and how to remove a battery you should not do this yourself.
The plactic vent pipe should be pulled off.


Then remove the battery clamp.


3. Remove the bulkhead grommet cover.


4. Then prepare the grommet by cutting off the blank end of a spare cable entry.


5. Remove the fuse box bolts


6. Then lift the fuse box out of the way


7. Then identify the wires that need to connected.
The 2 wire tabs (ring connectors) and the 2 that are needed next. The one with the inline fuse holder (the rubber thingy) is the +ve one. The one with out is -ve.
The blue wire is the one that is to be fed though the bulkhead gromment.


8. Connect the -ve wire to the earth stud under the fuse box, there are 2 earth studs, any is OK.


9. The positive connects to the 12v stud in the fuse box.





10. Feed the blue wire under the battery tray and through the bulk head.


11. Attach the fixing tape to the control module.


12. Feed the light cables down towards the front lef hand fog lamp. i did not remove the headlamp, there is plenty room



13. Remove the cover front the inside passenger footwell.
Firstly pull off the door seal rubber, then the upper cover pulls towards you.


Then partially remove the lower cover, this is held in place with clips, these clips will then need to be removed from the bodywork and slid back in to the cover for re-fitment later.


14. Pull back the carpet to expose the footwell module


Just above the footwell module there is the grommet from the bulkhead, but unless you are double jointed you will not be able see it, but you will be able to feel it and locate the blue wire you have passed through. Pull the wire through so you have enough to reach the module with about 6"-9" to spare. This will be connected later.

15. next secure the module to the fuse box with the fixing tape and the big tiewraps provided.

16. Now before removing the grill and bumper, refit the battery, battery clamp and cowl in reverse order to removing, reconnect the +ve teminal and don't forget the vent pipe. DO NOT CONNECT THE -ve TERMINAL YET.

17. Now remove the grill, there are 4 plastic rivets along the top.



The bottom clips are fiddly, and too fiddly for me to get pics, but its an arm down the back of the grill job.

18. Bumper removal. I have taken any pics, and I not going to cover it, The various types/models have differing fixings. Guides are available elsewhere.

19. Remove the existing lamps, 3 x Torx15 screws



20. Remove the lamps from the holders 2 x 25Torx screws.



Then unclip the clippy thing


Then in reverse order, fit the new lamp in the holder


Then fit back in to bumper



21. Routing the loom across the car, I fastened mine to the headlamp washer pipe that runs near behind the bumper mount, and the connected the fog and side light connectors, these cannot be got wrong, they will only go in one connector and only one way up.

22. Offer the bumper back to the car and fix in place with the two front screws only. The rest of the fixtures can be fitted after testing.


now connect the lamps to the loom, this can be done from the wheel arch lamp access points.

23. Now the interesting bit, take note here and do not follow the instructions, they are wrong.


Remove the footwell module by undoing the two plastic nuts and disconnect the socket facing you, this will allow you to turn the module around.

When the correct plug is identified you will realise that you cannot see the wires going in to the pins and there about 4 grey wires.
Slide off the socket cover.
The two small clips easily openned with finger nails with no force required.






After identifying the wire, using the crimp connector to attach the blue wire to the grey wire in pin12.

Reattach the connectors to the module and leave loose.

24. Now reconnect the -ve battery terminal, grab you keys and test your handy work.

Running lamps


Sides


Sides and fogs


All done, now reattach the module and covers. Replace the battery cover, fasten up you bumper, replace the grill, tidy all you tools away.
Then go and have a smug drink and gloat at your success.
 

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399inc vat fitted sandals Wakefield trying to confirm forum discount with update when confirmed for us lesser capable individuals I can confirm they do look awesome
 

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Hello from California! Thanks for posting the detailed description of how to install this "plug and play" kit. I chickened out and let the local dealer try his luck. Their first install. Well, they did a pretty good job, except they cannot get the full circle DRL function to work with the headlights off on my 2013 R56 JCW. The semi-circle DRL with the headlights on works fine, as well as the semi-circle with the fog lights on. They have had the car for several days, but can't figure out what to do, and the BMW hotline for dealers (Puma) is of no help either. The DRL function in the computer is turned off, as per instructions, and the dealer flashed the ECU and updated with all latest software releases. They followed the BMW installation instructions to the T. Reading your post, I am starting to wonder if the X14261 connector issue you described in your post might be the issue. How did you figure out that the arrow in the picture is pointing to the wrong connector / did you experience any symptoms that lead to this conclusion?
Any insight is much appreciated!
Christian
 

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Hi Dave, when putting the connector back into the module in the footwell can you remember which way it goes? Top or bottom? I kind of forgot to label it, it seems they can only fit one way but thought I might double check
 

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Hello from California! Thanks for posting the detailed description of how to install this "plug and play" kit. I chickened out and let the local dealer try his luck. Their first install. Well, they did a pretty good job, except they cannot get the full circle DRL function to work with the headlights off on my 2013 R56 JCW. The semi-circle DRL with the headlights on works fine, as well as the semi-circle with the fog lights on. They have had the car for several days, but can't figure out what to do, and the BMW hotline for dealers (Puma) is of no help either. The DRL function in the computer is turned off, as per instructions, and the dealer flashed the ECU and updated with all latest software releases. They followed the BMW installation instructions to the T. Reading your post, I am starting to wonder if the X14261 connector issue you described in your post might be the issue. How did you figure out that the arrow in the picture is pointing to the wrong connector / did you experience any symptoms that lead to this conclusion?
Any insight is much appreciated!
Christian
Hi there,

I am experiencing the exact same thing as you are. Everything is working in order except for the ring of circle for drl. Btw My car doesn't have the drl function in my computer, would that be the cause of my issue? Really appreciated if anyone here can help. Thank you.
 

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Hello Guys, I'm also facing the same experience as others. I cannot get the full circle led to light up, only half circle or fog lamp on. My other question is since my car is also an European model, (no DRL function) if I get the wires hooked up properly, at which light switch position will I get the full circle led to light up or will I need to hardwire an additional switch, any experienced inputs will be helpful, thanks.
 

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This is not as straight forward as the 1.5 hrs that MINI quote for fitting, so I have done a guide as a supplement to the official instructions that contain a very major error.

1. Remove the cover and cowl above the battery.
First remove the bolt near the windscreen.


Then the plastic nut.


The cover then just pulls up, some force is required


2. Then disconnect the battery, negative first. I have pictured this, because if you don't know which is +ve and -ve and how to remove a battery you should not do this yourself.
The plactic vent pipe should be pulled off.


Then remove the battery clamp.


3. Remove the bulkhead grommet cover.


4. Then prepare the grommet by cutting off the blank end of a spare cable entry.


5. Remove the fuse box bolts


6. Then lift the fuse box out of the way


7. Then identify the wires that need to connected.
The 2 wire tabs (ring connectors) and the 2 that are needed next. The one with the inline fuse holder (the rubber thingy) is the +ve one. The one with out is -ve.
The blue wire is the one that is to be fed though the bulkhead gromment.


8. Connect the -ve wire to the earth stud under the fuse box, there are 2 earth studs, any is OK.


9. The positive connects to the 12v stud in the fuse box.





10. Feed the blue wire under the battery tray and through the bulk head.


11. Attach the fixing tape to the control module.


12. Feed the light cables down towards the front lef hand fog lamp. i did not remove the headlamp, there is plenty room



13. Remove the cover front the inside passenger footwell.
Firstly pull off the door seal rubber, then the upper cover pulls towards you.


Then partially remove the lower cover, this is held in place with clips, these clips will then need to be removed from the bodywork and slid back in to the cover for re-fitment later.


14. Pull back the carpet to expose the footwell module


Just above the footwell module there is the grommet from the bulkhead, but unless you are double jointed you will not be able see it, but you will be able to feel it and locate the blue wire you have passed through. Pull the wire through so you have enough to reach the module with about 6"-9" to spare. This will be connected later.

15. next secure the module to the fuse box with the fixing tape and the big tiewraps provided.

16. Now before removing the grill and bumper, refit the battery, battery clamp and cowl in reverse order to removing, reconnect the +ve teminal and don't forget the vent pipe. DO NOT CONNECT THE -ve TERMINAL YET.

17. Now remove the grill, there are 4 plastic rivets along the top.



The bottom clips are fiddly, and too fiddly for me to get pics, but its an arm down the back of the grill job.

18. Bumper removal. I have taken any pics, and I not going to cover it, The various types/models have differing fixings. Guides are available elsewhere.

19. Remove the existing lamps, 3 x Torx15 screws



20. Remove the lamps from the holders 2 x 25Torx screws.



Then unclip the clippy thing


Then in reverse order, fit the new lamp in the holder


Then fit back in to bumper



21. Routing the loom across the car, I fastened mine to the headlamp washer pipe that runs near behind the bumper mount, and the connected the fog and side light connectors, these cannot be got wrong, they will only go in one connector and only one way up.

22. Offer the bumper back to the car and fix in place with the two front screws only. The rest of the fixtures can be fitted after testing.


now connect the lamps to the loom, this can be done from the wheel arch lamp access points.

23. Now the interesting bit, take note here and do not follow the instructions, they are wrong.


Remove the footwell module by undoing the two plastic nuts and disconnect the socket facing you, this will allow you to turn the module around.

When the correct plug is identified you will realise that you cannot see the wires going in to the pins and there about 4 grey wires.
Slide off the socket cover.
The two small clips easily openned with finger nails with no force required.






After identifying the wire, using the crimp connector to attach the blue wire to the grey wire in pin12.

Reattach the connectors to the module and leave loose.

24. Now reconnect the -ve battery terminal, grab you keys and test your handy work.

Running lamps


Sides


Sides and fogs


All done, now reattach the module and covers. Replace the battery cover, fasten up you bumper, replace the grill, tidy all you tools away.
Then go and have a smug drink and gloat at your success.
Awesome write up and great looking car you got there. May I know if the DRL ring can be turned off through your computer board once this is hooked up? Or does it stay permanently on once car is turned on?? Thanks!
 

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Mini driving light installation problems

Hello Guys, I'm also facing the same experience as others. I cannot get the full circle led to light up, only half circle or fog lamp on. My other question is since my car is also an European model, (no DRL function) if I get the wires hooked up properly, at which light switch position will I get the full circle led to light up or will I need to hardwire an additional switch, any experienced inputs will be helpful, thanks.
It was easier to join the USN than it was to register to this site! Just signed up to help some of you out on this light kit. The blue wire is like the blue wire on a head unit (12v radio). The blue wire is a switched 12v accessory. Just hook up the blue wire to any switched 12v accessory. + on cigarette lighter works fine. Blue wire powers daytime lights (full ring). When you turn the lights on the full ring goes off and just the top quarter circle remains lit. Blue wire to any switched 12v and move on to the next project!
 

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Bought some of these lights this week and got them delivered yesterday. Fitted them today. What a fuck on !!!

Dave your guide is really helpful. Massive thanks for it.
I didnt connect the blue wire to the wires going into the DME in the footwell, i connected it to a switched live i already had, which is all that the blue wire needs.

My only issue i had with fitting them was that stupid transformer box. Could i hell get it down by the fuse box! So after 3 hours of fucking on with it I've put it ontop of the battery with the cables fed under the plastic firewall. But Its neat and tidy and the box is out the way.
 

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Thanks for an excellent write-up! I've just done this upgrade on my LCI MCS, I might have given up without your help.

A couple of points that may help others, now the price of these kits has dropped.

MINI have updated the instructions to point to the correct connector on the footwell module.

Like Mass, I couldn't fit the control module between the fuse box and the body. There is a brake pipe in the way. I mounted it between the ECU and the air duct. Not sure how well this will work.

The LCI cars seem to have extra fixings on the bumper. 4 behind the (removable) lower grille, and 3 underneath right at the front. These are not shown in the Haynes manual or in the A1 parts video for pre-LCI cars.
 

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Hi guys, hope someone can help. A week ago I bought a set of the OEM Mini DRL for my new R56 JCW (2012) and I’ve got the same result. My mechanic installed them and we only got half of the circle. We took the car to the MINI dealer and they said that it is not compatible with my car and that this is why I don’t get the full circle. To me that was a stupid answer.
I have been reading yous posts and it seems that the way to fix it is with the blue cord connected to a 12v source but my mechanic told me... go and ask them before we explode you car hahaha.. he also told me that the blue wire is a Data wire and that maybe I didn’t understood you well.

Can you help me guys on this?. Thanks a lot!

By the way, this is my fourth Mini. 1-R53 JCW, 2 - R53 JCW GP (sold one, stupid decision and bought one again.. I still have it) and now a R56 JCW (I am in love).
 

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You have to "code" the MINI that car now have DRL..Go to a MINI workshop and they will do it.
 

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You have to "code" the MINI that car now have DRL..Go to a MINI workshop and they will do it.
Hi Saldi,

thank you for you reply but I already did that and they say it is not possible. I see that I have the same problem as many other people from this forum. It seems that I don’t get the full light due to a wire or something that is not well connected. I would like to know it that is the reason as some people here already fixed it.
 

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Thanks for a great and very helpful post. It gave me the confidence to proceed with this task myself.
Bought these DRLs from Cotswold Hereford on eBay for £220 for my 2012 Countryman Cooper SD (R60).
Fitting took me about 7 hours in total. I reckon if I was doing it again it would be about 3 hours. I was very cautious indeed.
The Mini instructions supplied with the lights were dated 09/2015. They show X14261 as the top connector on the back of footwell module which this article states is wrong and point instead to the lower one.
I tried the lower connector as suggested here which has a grey wire on pin 12 and did not get the full halo to work (only the top part when side lights or headlights were switched on and also fog lights when they were switched on). This suggests the blue wire is not getting 12v when ignition is on from pin 12 on the lower connector.
I then tried the top connector (the one the arrow in the instructions is actually pointing to). Also has a grey wire on pin 12. The DRLs now work perfectly!

I did get the control unit down the side of the fuse box but only just and it is hellishly fiddly to do. I guess different models have more or less room available. It does feel a bit of a bodge though and as a Mini supplied accessory I would have hoped for a better design giving a more permanent feel to the fitting.

The leads from the control unit to the fog light positions are not generous in length. I had to feed them through the lower part of the cover behind the left headlight, under the screen washer bottle filler pipe and then under the headlight. This meant minimum route deviation on the way down to the left fog light. I did this by loosening the fixings holding the cover in place which allowed me to lift it slightly and stuff the cables through. I had to remove the air intake pipe temporarily to get my hand in to feed the cables through. I did not need to remove the headlight unit fortunately. Even after optimising the cable route, I just had enough length to get to the fog light position.

To confirm: no coding is required with this kit and there are no alerts about bulbs having failed.

They do look great and work perfectly. Give me a shout if you have any questions, I’d be glad to help!
 

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Hey
Thanks for a great and very helpful post. It gave me the confidence to proceed with this task myself.
Bought these DRLs from Cotswold Hereford on eBay for £220 for my 2012 Countryman Cooper SD (R60).
Fitting took me about 7 hours in total. I reckon if I was doing it again it would be about 3 hours. I was very cautious indeed.
The Mini instructions supplied with the lights were dated 09/2015. They show X14261 as the top connector on the back of footwell module which this article states is wrong and point instead to the lower one.
I tried the lower connector as suggested here which has a grey wire on pin 12 and did not get the full halo to work (only the top part when side lights or headlights were switched on and also fog lights when they were switched on). This suggests the blue wire is not getting 12v when ignition is on from pin 12 on the lower connector.
I then tried the top connector (the one the arrow in the instructions is actually pointing to). Also has a grey wire on pin 12. The DRLs now work perfectly!

I did get the control unit down the side of the fuse box but only just and it is hellishly fiddly to do. I guess different models have more or less room available. It does feel a bit of a bodge though and as a Mini supplied accessory I would have hoped for a better design giving a more permanent feel to the fitting.

The leads from the control unit to the fog light positions are not generous in length. I had to feed them through the lower part of the cover behind the left headlight, under the screen washer bottle filler pipe and then under the headlight. This meant minimum route deviation on the way down to the left fog light. I did this by loosening the fixings holding the cover in place which allowed me to lift it slightly and stuff the cables through. I had to remove the air intake pipe temporarily to get my hand in to feed the cables through. I did not need to remove the headlight unit fortunately. Even after optimising the cable route, I just had enough length to get to the fog light position.

To confirm: no coding is required with this kit and there are no alerts about bulbs having failed.

They do look great and work perfectly. Give me a shout if you have any questions, I’d be glad to help!
Hey Steve, great to hear that the lights are working perfectly after installation. After reading everyone’s reviews in this forum I’m tempted to get the DRL for my 2011 One. Would you be able to lend me a hand with fitting if possible please?
 

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Hey

Hey Steve, great to hear that the lights are working perfectly after installation. After reading everyone’s reviews in this forum I’m tempted to get the DRL for my 2011 One. Would you be able to lend me a hand with fitting if possible please?
Hi
I am by no means an auto-electrician and we have different models and I can only speak from my own experience but nevertheless I’ll happily answer anything you ask best I can!
Good luck.
 
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