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that old clutch is dead,

see how much smaller the swept area is of the Valeo compared to stock?

if the new clutch bites higher and the pedal feels normal from the top, put the feel difference down to changing to a completely different clutch, if the pedal was soft or difficulty in engagement etc then you might have an issue,
 

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Discussion Starter #443
that old clutch is dead,

see how much smaller the swept area is of the Valeo compared to stock?

if the new clutch bites higher and the pedal feels normal from the top, put the feel difference down to changing to a completely different clutch, if the pedal was soft or difficulty in engagement etc then you might have an issue,
See what you mean about the wear on the clutch.

Biting point height and lighter pedal I can get used to.
Issue I have with the pedal is the change in pressure in it's movement, it makes it difficult to make a smooth clutch engagement.
Really want to avoid bleeding the clutch though as I've seen so many posts about problems doing so. I did actually buy a new Febi slave cylinder just incase :)
 

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Fantastic work Johnny, big job to be doing on axle stands in a tight place, nicely done!

Was it a pain lifting the gear box back up?
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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Yeah mate you are doing a superb job keeping this thing straight...make me wish I was better with the spanners!! (y) 🤣
 

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Discussion Starter #446
Was it a pain lifting the gear box back up?
YES!!! 😁
Because I couldn't see if the orientation of the gearbox was lining up due to all the wiring etc at the top, I had to enlist the help of the wife for directions.
In all, it took a good 90 minutes 🙄and it's very heavy.

There's a guy on YouTube lifts it on his own and gets it on in about 60 seconds, although it's a Midlands box I think, maybe they're lighter :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter #450
Lockdown helped kill my battery.
Left the car for too long before starting it a couple of times.
Has eventually decide to let me down even the day after a reasonable drive. And annoys the neighbours with the alarm going off because of low battery.
Pretty certain the alternator is good, as it usually starts fine the next day after being completely dead, so it is charging.

Had the Halfords HB013 previously, decided to go for the better (calcium) HCB013 this time. It's gotta be better because it's more expensive :D
 

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Discussion Starter #451
With the new clutch installed I figured I'd best change the sump gasket, as that joins with the bell housing.
Makes me wonder how many people think they've had a leaking crank rear main seal when it could actually be the sump gasket...

Anyway, bought the gasket many years ago.


Pretty easy job, only difficult bit was refitting the 2 upper bolts for the aircon compressor.


Pleasantly surprised not to find half a dipstick from a previous owner, or any timing chain guides.


I'm not in the slightest bit surprised these commonly leak. Who had the bright idea of attaching an engine mount to a sump? All the stress of the engine movement is absorbed equally by the mount and the joining of the sump to engine. Do BMW not have any competent engineers anymore?

Next job is the change the leaking clutch slave cylinder.
 

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I think it's the other way round, people change these when it's the rear main, looks like the rear flywheel end corner when it's actually oil running out from the lower starter bolt area, or both.

I'd have renewed the end shells while in there personally,

if you've just done the clutch was the slave leaking prior? If unsure it might only have let some past during refitting, if the plunger is moved off centre they can, so it might be worth cleaning it out for review later....

there's some oil staining/varnish in there, might seem odd but it's worth checking the coolant flow through the heat exchanger is good, I don't think it's a coincidence that more obvious staining seems to go hand in hand with a restriction/blockage
 

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Discussion Starter #453
I think it's the other way round, people change these when it's the rear main, looks like the rear flywheel end corner when it's actually oil running out from the lower starter bolt area, or both.

I'd have renewed the end shells while in there personally,

if you've just done the clutch was the slave leaking prior? If unsure it might only have let some past during refitting, if the plunger is moved off centre they can, so it might be worth cleaning it out for review later....

there's some oil staining/varnish in there, might seem odd but it's worth checking the coolant flow through the heat exchanger is good, I don't think it's a coincidence that more obvious staining seems to go hand in hand with a restriction/blockage
I've really no idea about 'engines' so I've no idea what or how to do end shells or even tell if the original ones are bad.

Slave cylinder definitely wasn't leaking before I changed the clutch. And I was very careful when moving it to/from the gearbox.
Someone on Facebook had mentioned that it can happen if left completely uncompressed. But I'm not so sure about that as that's how they live in their box when they're brand new.

Still need to do the 2 gaskets on the heat exchanger so will check then, cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #454
Time to change the leaking clutch slave cylinder.

Ready to bleed


Getting the fluid line out of the old cylinder was a struggle, had to use grips on the plastic pipe connection and twist and pull on the cylinder, but it eventually came off.
Pushing the connection into the new cylinder just wasn't happening. Had to then try to twist and push, boom, the pipe snaps.
Looking at it, I think the pipe has started to rust and expand inside the plastic connection, making it impossibly tight to refit.


Thinking it's game over at the thought of replacing a pipe that runs from the front of the gearbox to inside the car to the master cylinder, parts diagram shows it's in three parts.


Ordering from eBay or Amazon and I'm looking at the car being out of action for up to a week!
Ring my local stealership, as they'll have it within a couple of days... turns out they have one in stock (it's like they've had this trouble themselves), and cheaper than eBay/Amazon.


Fitting it was easy but very long winded. Bumper off, crash bar off, crash tubes off, into front-end service mode, disconnect battery, remove airbox & ecu. Finally remove throttle body just to be able to get to a bracket that was preventing the pipe going under some cables!

New pipe connection just pushed straight into the slave cylinder, like how it should have been several hours earlier!


Pressure bled the same way as Mod Mini's YouTube guide.
Pedal feel is exactly the same as before so I assume that's how the Valeo solid mass flywheel conversion is.
 

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very common for the pipe to rot there

no need to remove any of the front to change it though

will be reassuring knowing that it's new
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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What an asshat of a job matey, bet you're glad to have that done and dusted.....now to worry about my slave cylinder going pop (y) :ROFLMAO:
 

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Valeo definitely feels softer than stock, I changed from their single mass conversion to stock with lightweight flywheel. Definitely heavier now, I think I preferred the Valeo pedal feel.

Good job on sorting it.

Sent from my HRY-LX1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #460
Valeo definitely feels softer than stock, I changed from their single mass conversion to stock with lightweight flywheel. Definitely heavier now, I think I preferred the Valeo pedal feel.
Yeah, putting your foot down on the clutch normally, overall it's noticeably lighter.
But with mine you can notice it being heavy at the top end of the pedal travel, but this is only noticeable if you press the clutch in very slowly.
Think I'm used to it now :)
 
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