MiniTorque.com banner

421 - 440 of 461 Posts

·
Premium Member
2006 R53
Joined
·
10,547 Posts
I had my bootlid repaired about 2 or 3 years ago, noticed last week it's started to bubble again in the same place.

I assume he just rubbed it down and repainted.
Mine has started to bubble on the boot lid but it's still presentable. When it properly lets go I think I'll replace the whole tailgate with fibreglass. I'm going to Croft on the 11th of nay to see a friends R53 track car so will see what his panels are like
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
991 Posts
I like the undersealing work! Was that all prepped by the bodyshop or did you do it?

Sucks about the rust, my R53 tailgate was done by Mini, then came back 2 years later and they shafted me for a new bootlid (despite still being in warranty)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter #423
I had my bootlid repaired about 2 or 3 years ago, noticed last week it's started to bubble again in the same place.

I assume he just rubbed it down and repainted.

Ps, who did the work for you?
My bootlid was repaired a couple of years ago after being rear ended.
The issue with the rust under the rear light(s) is that it's most likely caused by trapped water somehow. And likely made worse by my car being parked on a slope (rear downward).

Work was done by these guys:
https://www.jrclassics.co.uk/

It wasn't cheap, but then it's a lot of work involved.
I'd decided to go for it as I'm probably never going to sell the car, just keep it until it eventually falls apart :laugh:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,133 Posts
My bootlid was repaired a couple of years ago after being rear ended.
The issue with the rust under the rear light(s) is that it's most likely caused by trapped water somehow. And likely made worse by my car being parked on a slope (rear downward).

Work was done by these guys:
https://www.jrclassics.co.uk/

It wasn't cheap, but then it's a lot of work involved.
I'd decided to go for it as I'm probably never going to sell the car, just keep it until it eventually falls apart
Not too far from me then, I've actually been down that way today with the '5 (why are all my car's rust buckets? Maybe it's contagious!)

Any chance you could divulge the costs for reference? PM me if you don't want it public.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter #428
Not posted for a while, some minor updates...

Last year I had a total brake failure!!!
The front offside HEL brake line had been rubbing on the inside of the wheel. Possibly moved during the masking/undersealing of the car. Not a fault of the guy who did the work at all, these lines should NOT be able to move within the grommet that's attached to the shock absorber. I didn't even notice when I fitted my summer wheels/tyres back on.
Anyway, the gradual wearing lead to this...


I informed HEL Brakes, and my response back from them was....SWEET FA.
I was VERY lucky in that traffic was very light and didn't have an accident.
Very poor show from HEL in their shoddy design, even poorer that they didn't even bother to reply to me.
Turns out this is actually quite a common issue with HEL lines on the Mini. I've heard they've since changed the design slightly due to this.
Many owners put cable ties on the line either side of the grommet to avoid the line slipping through. I didn't know about this bodge that must be done!

Got me some Goodridge lines now, the line is very tight in the grommet in these. But I've put cable ties "just in case".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter #429 (Edited)
Yet another fuel filter change, 3rd one since buying the car 8 years ago.


I think I do around 4 (yearly) oil changes in between the car 'asking' to be serviced.


Cabin filter, which I only do every 2 years now. Mann filter for about a quarter of the price of oem.


Noticed the coilover strut piston top sitting slightly higher on the passenger side, Corteco top mounts fitted only 2 years ago!!
So swapped them over for Febi ones, and replaced my 7 year old under strut plates for new ones.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter #431
Another change
When the car was 9 years old, I changed the coolant expansion tank for a genuine oem one, purely as a precautionary measure, as we all know these things eventually leak (shoddy German engineering).

5 years later... yesterday, I noticed a slight leak

Got this on Amazon Prime for £40, next day delivery
Really disliked not being able to easily see the coolant level, so I went back to a plastic tank. This time Febi instead of oem which only lasted 5 years!!
 

·
Registered
2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
Joined
·
503 Posts
Browsed the entire thread mate, love what you've done with it. Best colour combo as well (y) (y)
 

·
Registered
2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
Joined
·
503 Posts
.......oh and mines rusted in the same place but on the left light cluster......been fine for a year and came from nowhere though mine was just v v minor bubbling when I spotted it.

I put it down to Hyper Blue maybe being a little susceptible to rust vs other colours and also the poor lamp cluster design. I took it apart and it does seem that there is a seam that water just sits in and eventually triggers the bubbling...which I suspect then spreads to the panel itself. I got mine smart repaired and it started to poke through again just days later but I took matters into my own hands and hopefully I've stopped it or at least kept it at bay for the foreseeable. Going to do the other lamp cluster and around the inside of the tailgate by the tail lamps as a precaution (y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter #434
.......oh and mines rusted in the same place but on the left light cluster......been fine for a year and came from nowhere though mine was just v v minor bubbling when I spotted it.

I put it down to Hyper Blue maybe being a little susceptible to rust vs other colours and also the poor lamp cluster design. I took it apart and it does seem that there is a seam that water just sits in and eventually triggers the bubbling...which I suspect then spreads to the panel itself. I got mine smart repaired and it started to poke through again just days later but I took matters into my own hands and hopefully I've stopped it or at least kept it at bay for the foreseeable. Going to do the other lamp cluster and around the inside of the tailgate by the tail lamps as a precaution (y)
Yeah, they're getting to that age.
I've now got a little rust on the very bottom of the tailgate. Not the usual place the tailgate rusts, so I suspect the dent repair I have done 4 years back.
Still not decided whether to get it repaired or get another tailgate...
 

·
Registered
2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
Joined
·
503 Posts
Yeah, they're getting to that age.
I've now got a little rust on the very bottom of the tailgate. Not the usual place the tailgate rusts, so I suspect the dent repair I have done 4 years back.
Still not decided whether to get it repaired or get another tailgate...
Yeah tis a pain, seems to just appear from nowhere on these things.

Hard call with tailgate whether to repair or replace hey........

Rust was a bit of an issue on BMW's of this era, figure its build processes and some of the materials/electrical used are probably E46 3 series based and you see alot of those now with rot etc. The electricals are also over-engineered in places to the point of being over complicated (in some cases badly conceived).....the self charging remote keys on the facelift a perfect example of that. Still the price you pay for a hot hatch that actually has some proper charisma.....and a Clio 172/182 is a damn sight worse 🤣 👍
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter #436 (Edited)
So, 18 months ago the clutch started slipping if I planted my foot down. Immediately purchased a clutch kit + flywheel. I've also collected various parts over the past year to change whilst the car is in pieces.
However, the clutch seemed to stop slipping (don't get much of a change to plant my foot in daily driving), but now seemed like a good time to fit the parts I'd already paid for!

As suspected, the top radiator hose has been rubbing against the fan housing (replaced this hose 4 years ago when the original had been doing the same)


So replaced that


Also replaced the lower hose just because it's 15 years old


Replaced the 6 year old crankshaft sensor


Didn't change the supercharger oil as I fitted a new supercharger only 26K miles ago.

This single bell housing bolt had me stumped for literally hours. Socket on bolt and no room for ratchet. Using a short extension is too long. Eventually figured it out and used a ratchet spanner.
Here it is with a long socket on...


New starter motor. Nothing wrong with it, but it's 15 years old and access is never going to be better than it is now


Had fun getting the lower slave cylinder bolt out without it snapping. I didn't remove the cylinder, just tied it out of the way (as per the Mod Mini YouTube guide)


Gearbox eventually out, the inside is black!


Must have spent well over 2 hours trying to fit the new rear main crank seal. Then suddenly it just went in!!


New vs old clutch + flywheel


New gearbox input shaft seal


The mess of wiring and pipework that make it all such a pain


New Valeo single mass flywheel


All fitted


Ready to go back together


Quick change of oil filter housing gasket while access is good (I should have got the oil cooler pipe gaskets too)


Fill up of gear oil and coolant


Huge amount of work, took me 4 days (l really do like to take my time!!!).
Reckon I could do it in 2 if I had to do it again. No way could I do it in a single day in my tiny garage on axle stands.

Breakdown of costs:
Valeo clutch + single mass flywheel conversion kit - £280
Rear main crank seal - £30
BMW Coolant - £23
Redline MTL - £37

Additional work:
Gearbox oil seal set (only used input shaft seal, will do driveshaft seals at later date) - £30
Crankshaft sensor o-ring - £7
Bosch starter motor - £80
Radiator hoses - £30
Radiator clamps - £17
Oil filter housing gasket - £13

I'm annoyed as I lost one of the rubber grommets that sit under the air filter box. I couldn't see it anywhere in the engine bay, and tidying up the garage afterwards it hadn't fallen to the floor!

Haven't driven it much but so far the single mass flywheel doesn't feel any different to the dual mass.
I think the pedal/slave/fluid needs investigation as the biting point is higher than before, and when pressing the clutch pedal it feels normal at first then goes a little lighter when half way down.
As said, I never disconnected the slave cylinder (same as Mod Mini guide). I have tried leaving the clutch pedal pressed overnight but that didn't make any difference.

Old clutch, which I presume is the factory original (LUK branded), 15 years old, 117K miles, looked to be in good condition.
I presume the clutch slip (which went away after buying the parts) was due to either rear main seal or sump gasket.
My sump gasket has been leaking since forever, just never got round to it. And I only just noticed that it's joined with the bell housing.
 

·
Registered
2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
Joined
·
503 Posts
So, 18 months ago the clutch started slipping if I planted my foot down. Immediately purchased a clutch kit + flywheel. I've also collected various parts over the past year to change whilst the car is in pieces.
However, the clutch seemed to stop slipping (don't get much of a change to plant my foot in daily driving), but now seemed like a good time to fit the parts I'd already paid for!

As suspected, the top radiator hose has been rubbing against the fan housing (replaced this hose 4 years ago when the original had been doing the same)


So replaced that


Also replaced the lower hose just because it's 15 years old


Replaced the 6 year old crankshaft sensor


Didn't change the supercharger oil as I fitted a new supercharger only 26K miles ago.

This single bell housing bolt had me stumped for literally hours. Socket on bolt and no room for ratchet. Using a short extension is too long. Eventually figured it out and used a ratchet spanner.
Here it is with a long socket on...


New starter motor. Nothing wrong with it, but it's 15 years old and access is never going to be better than it is now


Had fun getting the lower slave cylinder bolt out without it snapping. I didn't remove the cylinder, just tied it out of the way (as per the Mod Mini YouTube guide)


Gearbox eventually out, the inside is black!


Must have spent well over 2 hours trying to fit the new rear main crank seal. Then suddenly it just went in!!


New vs old clutch + flywheel


New gearbox input shaft seal


The mess of wiring and pipework that make it all such a pain


New Valeo single mass flywheel


All fitted


Ready to go back together


Quick change of oil filter housing gasket while access is good (I should have got the oil cooler pipe gaskets too)


Fill up of gear oil and coolant


Huge amount of work, took me 4 days (l really do like to take my time!!!).
Reckon I could do it in 2 if I had to do it again. No way could I do it in a single day in my tiny garage on axle stands.

Breakdown of costs:
Valeo clutch + single mass flywheel conversion kit - £280
Rear main crank seal - £30
BMW Coolant - £23
Redline MTL - £37

Additional work:
Gearbox oil seal set (only used input shaft seal, will do driveshaft seals at later date) - £30
Crankshaft sensor o-ring - £7
Bosch starter motor - £80
Radiator hoses - £30
Radiator clamps - £17
Oil filter housing gasket - £13

I'm annoyed as I lost one of the rubber grommets that sit under the air filter box. I couldn't see it anywhere in the engine bay, and tidying up the garage afterwards it hadn't fallen to the floor!

Haven't driven it much but so far the single mass flywheel doesn't feel any different to the dual mass.
I think the pedal/slave/fluid needs investigation as the biting point is higher than before, and when pressing the clutch pedal it feels normal at first then goes a little lighter when half way down.
As said, I never disconnected the slave cylinder (same as Mod Mini guide). I have tried leaving the clutch pedal pressed overnight but that didn't make any difference.

Old clutch, which I presume is the factory original (LUK branded), 15 years old, 117K miles, looked to be in good condition.
I presume the clutch slip (which went away after buying the parts) was due to either rear main seal or sump gasket.
My sump gasket has been leaking since forever, just never got round to it. And I only just noticed that it's joined with the bell housing.
Hey mate, are they the same as the ones used to support the coil pack do you know? If so I might be able to help you out as I think I have some spare assuming they are the same.

I had to buy 20 quids worth to replace one I lost off my coil pack (🤣)....if I can find one if I said a few quid via PayPal to cover costs and 2nd class recorded postage I could post you one...would that work for you?

If it isnt the right thing then not to worry (y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,283 Posts
Discussion Starter #440
Hey mate, are they the same as the ones used to support the coil pack do you know? If so I might be able to help you out as I think I have some spare assuming they are the same.
Unfortunately not, these grommets as pretty big and chunky.
Which is even more surprising how they just seemed to vanish :D
 
421 - 440 of 461 Posts
Top