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How much more pull do you get between 2k and 4k RPM with 469 profile Catcam from your butt dyno?
If you are after a greater pull from lower you would possibly be better considering a 461 which will still be better than the standard cam above 4k, or, use an adjustable gear and advance the 469 perhaps.
 

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Discussion Starter #384
Yes, as above, get a cam... Is it going to see track?
It's not been on the track, but it's not out of the question. Maybe once or twice...

Any future mods have to be DIY. I'm a tightwad and I like doing stuff on the car anyway :)
Would an ecu map be needed after fitting a cam? I know it's needed for larger injectors.
 

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I'd fit a mild cam without a map, the car's likely going to deal with that better than a pulley without one imo,

If you just mean will the car run at all if you were to fit a cam, yes it will, other than a mild one you'd likely need to raise the rpm because the car will stall especially when coming to a halt or manoeuvring,

My Kent cam would need 50 - 100 maybe, a 469 Catcam would need 200, a Newman PH3/4 likely slightly more.

It's only fitting 550cc injectors where the car won't run. If you fit a hotter cam and want them, you can still drive sensibly to the tuners and fit the injectors when there or get them to,
 
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Discussion Starter #386
And here's under the Mitsubishi FTO that's been lowered 30mm


And the Mini at standard height (actually a couple of mm higher due to the under tower plates)
 

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And here's under the Mitsubishi FTO that's been lowered 30mm


And the Mini at standard height (actually a couple of mm higher due to the under tower plates)
Yeah.... It's a pain in the a$$ actually, mine is not even crazy low and I run from speed bumps, some stupid low spots under there

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
 

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LSD is a great shout. Get a new clutch while you're there and it's open, rear main oil seal too. Sump seal if it warrants it too.

Not many people realise about pulley/tune. Makes a difference.

Cam and injectors and very much worth it.
 

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alloy flywheel too ;O)

clearly a cam is cheaper, it won't help traction but you can short shift and use any additional low range torque from a mild cam, even a diff will spin up when damp unless you do that sometimes, clearly tyre choice is a factor too as is suspension,

I think people may interpret mild cams to be insufficient, but for most real world driving they actually may prove ideal,

Difficult to choose one I guess for some people, when the only reference point potentially being online from other users who all drive differently,

You can borrow a cam for up to a month for the fitting costs plus sundries (*ie +gaskets/bolts), so £360* fitted outlay on a used yet perfect condition cam, plenty of time to live with it and decide you like it, but with an option to get £240* back within the month if you don't like it or wish to choose a different one and do it again maybe, no quibble. I'd recommend buying an ARP cam bolt rather than a single use OEM one, they can go again but not worth the risk really. I have a Catcam 461, Kent development, and 469 in my car at the moment which I'll just take it out if it's needed. The only significant Caveats are that tuning to suit any modifications to your vehicle are your own responsibility and you accept this, and that I will save a fault code report before and after and some images.
 

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Haha same, but is it worth going for an LSD first, the car struggles to put power down when its moist outside.
OEM LSD in mine. Only thing putting me off is the bit of oil it burns when... erm..... enjoying the full range of the gauges....shall we say.....

Not sure whether or not to go for a bit of an engine refresh while I'm at it.

(Sorry for the hijack Johnny....)

Eta - its on 70odd k at the minute, spring will see the front end coming off for 'charger oil change and coolant.

Its had new chain, guides, tensioner and seals in the past year or so, no leaks, so it's definitely burning it not losing it.

Clutch is good, but flywheel will get changed once it needs a clutch...
 

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OEM LSD in mine. Only thing putting me off is the bit of oil it burns when... erm..... enjoying the full range of the gauges....shall we say.....

Not sure whether or not to go for a bit of an engine refresh while I'm at it.

(Sorry for the hijack Johnny....)

Eta - its on 70odd k at the minute, spring will see the front end coming off for 'charger oil change and coolant.

Its had new chain, guides, tensioner and seals in the past year or so, no leaks, so it's definitely burning it not losing it.

Clutch is good, but flywheel will get changed once it needs a clutch...
Already have a lightweight flywheel fitted, between that and the Kavs crank pulley it revs much more freely, its quite transformative you will love it mate!

My car is at 85k now and I haven't done the timing chain yet, and I've been worrying about it for a while, I don't think I have any unusually noises coming from the engine.
Tempted to buy timing chain kit and head gasket, ARP bolts etc just so I have them ready, and then maybe pre-emptively get it done.

I also have another oil leak somewhere...

Apologies for hijacking the thread Johnny!
 

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prevention always better than cure
 

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My tensioner went at 60oddk (iirc), replaced it, and a few weeks later it rattled again temporarily so I got it all done. The guides were in prices in the sump.
 

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Discussion Starter #399
Not driven the car much since putting the new belt tensioner on, due to the sheared bolt. But what little I did drive, it felt noticeably faster.

Got the timing cover changed, as well as new timing chain and guides, by the good folk at Lohen


I have to take my hat off to the guys at Lohen for noticing the slipping serpentine belt when they serviced it a few weeks ago.
The belt never screeched.
It's probably been like this since I bought the car, or when I put on a 15% pulley. As when I put the pulley on, although faster, it was never the night & day difference people said it would be.

They also did an incredible job of the alignment. While the car handled really well previously, it now is MUCH better. Probably due to the rears being adjusted for the first time ever.

And here's the results of the dyno, very happy with that
 

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consistent

you can always keep an eye on the belt length looking at the exposed portion of the tensioner strap with the twist in the tip, it has two holes and one should always be nearly or clearly fully visible with the engine running, preferably not bouncing around much.
 
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