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Discussion Starter #1
Can't be arsed searching through threads but there's a few more names in the game since I was last in an r53.

Airtec
Pro alloy
Forge
Grs
GP
Hobo

Obviously I'm aware GRS and GP work but are hard to find and cost more then my whole mini did so how do the others stack up?

Bonus of you're selling one, holla at me

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Bugger
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Cost to win GRS is still top imo. On a real budget, with some fettling the hobo isn't a bad option.
 
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Depends totally on how you use your car. If it's a track toy, then GRS or Airtec would make sense. Hobo is probably the next best thing for that.

For a daily on the street keep the stock ic and inject some meth. Bigger scoop will help too. All the top mount ic's will heat soak in traffic, and the aftermarket ones take ages to recover.
 

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Resident Gobshite
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Just hook up the washer bottle to some hose on top of the inter cooler and give it a squirt when you need to drop the temps. Who needs screen wash anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just hook up the washer bottle to some hose on top of the inter cooler and give it a squirt when you need to drop the temps. Who needs screen wash anyway.
Man with a plan I like this

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Man with a plan I like this

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For about £100 you can get a coolingmist kit with a separate tank, motor and all you need to fit it and operate with a separate switch if you feel like keeping the washer bottle.

I’m actually surprised I’ve not seen more people do this on R53s as it’s more commonplace on STIs or Pulsars.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
For about £100 you can get a coolingmist kit with a separate tank, motor and all you need to fit it and operate with a separate switch if you feel like keeping the washer bottle.

I’m actually surprised I’ve not seen more people do this on R53s as it’s more commonplace on STIs or Pulsars.
I was going to say it's very popular on scoobies

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If you were to see temps going into the high 70's when using one of these heavy units, Airtec, Forge, Hobo, I wonder if a mist kit would do much for it really? I had something up there once at 1320 and the watering can was barely bringing it down never mind a mist haha, that was a lighter unit than the Airtec etc. And a bit crap. You'd be better off with W/M and be done with it perhaps.

I'd like to try the Pro Alloy but I expect it'll be heavy so it will be hotter etc, for too long which is the problem, yet it looks lighter than the Airtec I think, losing the left horn is a decent idea but it slows access to stuff I guess. Citro's test some time ago showed it was alright but compared with I/C's on other cars rather than several tested on one or two cars. If tests are involving subsidised parts they're not ideal anyway imo.

I'd expect you to get a good return on a Pro Alloy if you later chose to sell it on, and if you did add a mist kit, it has the largest surface area I think which could see the fastest drop. Then you could add a mist to a stock I/C too which already recovers the next fastest to the GP.

Airtec's like to dent the bonnet from the inside caused by the right rear corner if you go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've gone with an Airtec one and I'm collecting it tomorrow

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The cooler intake charge probably also helps with longevity of the engine too...

Is there any data that shows how much power is lost when intake temp rises from say 30° to 50°C? Or to 75°C as that's where my intake was on the dyno... lol
So you have a means to logging? At those high intake temps you probably pulling timing which of course will reduce your power. Need to get those high temps under control.. How did you dyno? With the hood open or closed? And did you have a fan running up front

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I'm surprised a run was even continued with intake temp up there, but I'd guess they couldn't see it, that and how the car got that hot in one run at all? Perhaps they didn't know the car pulls timing and over fuels at 56 degrees on?

I think timing can go back 10 degrees or thereabouts, that's going to be a fair HP loss.
 

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Matt Farah once said in a podcast he lost 30hp (iirc) between Dyno pulls, one without AC on and then with AC on...

I reckon a lot of that 30hp was more a heat issue than losses from the AC.
 

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So you have a means to logging? At those high intake temps you probably pulling timing which of course will reduce your power. Need to get those high temps under control.. How did you dyno? With the hood open or closed? And did you have a fan running up front
I'm surprised a run was even continued with intake temp up there, but I'd guess they couldn't see it, that and how the car got that hot in one run at all? Perhaps they didn't know the car pulls timing and over fuels at 56 degrees on?

I think timing can go back 10 degrees or thereabouts, that's going to be a fair HP loss.

I had Bytetronik doing the logging, and just re-checked the logs... it hit 70°C at 7100rpm and reached 75° after going against the limiter at 7300rpm. We did three runs, and the last was the only one touching 70°. Bonnet closed and a fan running up front, M7 ram scoop and stock ic. We did let it cool down between runs, but obviously not long enough. Never seen temps like that on the road or on the track.

That last run was also the only one where I had proper traction on the rollers (car was too low for this dyno...) resulting in 227whp. I should mention that my car is tuned for E85, and pulled about 3° of timing... my bet is that more power was lost from air density drop than from timing.

The factory JCW 210 tune starts pulling timing from 51°C on and is pulling "only" 4° at 75°C IAT. Then again the JCW tune is probably already pulling more timing than that through knock adaptation, so I wouldn't be surprised if it would pull more than 10 degrees in total. And it over fuels like crazy, especially from 70°C on.
 

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I had Bytetronik doing the logging, and just re-checked the logs... it hit 70°C at 7100rpm and reached 75° after going against the limiter at 7300rpm. We did three runs, and the last was the only one touching 70°. Bonnet closed and a fan running up front, M7 ram scoop and stock ic. We did let it cool down between runs, but obviously not long enough. Never seen temps like that on the road or on the track.

That last run was also the only one where I had proper traction on the rollers (car was too low for this dyno...) resulting in 227whp. I should mention that my car is tuned for E85, and pulled about 3° of timing... my bet is that more power was lost from air density drop than from timing.

The factory JCW 210 tune starts pulling timing from 51°C on and is pulling "only" 4° at 75°C IAT. Then again the JCW tune is probably already pulling more timing than that through knock adaptation, so I wouldn't be surprised if it would pull more than 10 degrees in total. And it over fuels like crazy, especially from 70°C on.
Nice, yes I used to suffer high intake temp issues as well running an aggressive pulley setup, and used to see also around 7 degrees of timing pull if memory serves me correctly, and like you said dumps the fuel. Your numbers are still strong even with 3deg of timing pull, I wonder what 1 deg timing equates to in whp?

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