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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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6,451 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
head together with new stem seals (Reinz) and valves lapped,

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head on, timing pick up, flywheel after clean up, and new OEM clutch

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gearbox bell housing cleaned up

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engine bay clean as usual

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vibration damper on, A/C compressor and bracket, friction wheel, box on, starter motor with purge and fuel pipe support bracket, rear lower mount and bracket, new OEM water pump, just waiting for new drive pulley, and inlet manifold on after wiring harness connected and fuel rail in.

coolant crossover pipe on and thermostat housing although the housing is going to get swapped for a new modified OEM one, I note it's the old type and a couple of ports are distorted on it too....

the support bracket on the head is a replacement, mentioned before, the bolt hole on the far left on the original was cracked all down the side

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HPFP on, vacuum pump with new OEM seal, filter housing and oil cooler with new OEM seals, alternator, dipstick tube and stick in,

note the broken drill bit used as a tensioner lock, I didn't do this, the car was already partially disassembled, new tensioner coming today, also normally I don't interrupt the A/C but again, it was already done....

the drill bit I could leave as it doesn't affect the tensioner function, but it would probably affect me with future work so would be daft leaving it, seen a few now with the locking pins broken

the motor also has the lifters cleaned and installed, rockers cleaned and installed along with cams and is now timed, I just didn't take pics of that this time, engine oil is in too now

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so just the exhaust manifold and turbo to fit after cleaning old oil from the shields and gasket, deciding if to reuse that or not, they usually go again alright but I have new if required, then make a decision on oil feed pipe and fit the rear shield and turbo support before adding the cat.

the modular assembly is a bit nicer on the R56's, one can basically build the whole thing out of the car bar adding coolant, all it needs after mounting is the main power cable bolting to the top support bracket, one point to the starter and the other to the alternator, better done as offering the motor into the bay really, the earth strap, then add the heater hoses, clip in the gear cables, and put the shafts in, plug in the ECU and it's in, bar fluids.

on this car whoever took it apart opted to remove the shafts completely which I don't do, it's not even necessary really to remove the front wheels on these, the lower ball joints separate by unbolting them from the lower arms,

note the cleaned up engine number face just above the wood block.

I have no doubts that I'll run into legacy issues with it, having never seen it run this stuff is a gamble, car bought blind so there could be anything going on really....
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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6,451 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
new drive pulley for water pump fitted, new belt tensioner on, new OEM thermostat housing and additional modified harness, old housing had no coolant temp sensor so the additional harness splits into two to suit the new type which does. Interesting that despite being the same year this housing is the same as regular S's, applicable to this FJCW, yet the same part on the other FJCW R58 has different size connections on the housing and lead, significantly smaller, strange.

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exhaust manifold on, new OEM turbo oil feed pipe, oil pressure switch in

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and it's in....

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next to do is install the shafts, mount the cat and front shields, connect A/C line and lambda sensors, fit ECU carrier and ECU, connect that, connect the turbo lower coolant pipe, and mount the slave cylinder. The heater hoses also need to go on, one of the spring clamps needs sourcing, currently one hose has a jubilee clip. The style of housing used a different clip on fitting which I guess was removed in the past and a normal clip put round it, I prefer the OEM spring clips tbh, there's nothing wrong with them if not rotting, they don't leak, and don't distort the connections from over tightening which I suspect might have happened on the old housing.

I note the slave cylinder's gaiter is full of brake fluid so won't know whether this was a pending failure item or if it's because the slave was misaligned at any time during removal which can cause them to leak, I'll see if there's a pedal perhaps when the slave is on, if there is it's probably just a leaking cylinder, then would suspect if there isn't it could just want rinsing out and re-bleeding, we'll see soon enough,

then the front panel can go back which I removed complete with headlamps and washer bottle, I'll connect the fan and main hoses, lamp wiring and build up the front after putting coolant in and bleeding, first though, it'll be started. I'll remove the plugs and crank it over four times with fuel system connected until the starter cuts out, then will fit coils and plugs, reset DTC's, and reset adaptions including Vanos before firing it up,

cranking with plugs out keeps compression loads of the new bearings as well as circulating the new oil, hopefully bleeding lifters sufficiently to give a quiet start, and leaving the fuel system live unlike some folk, will bleed the high pressure system helping the chances of a stable start up without generating misfire codes either.

more to follow, nearly there.... ;O)

N.B. just an info note.... regardless of how good some aftermarket chain kits might be, this pic shows they still might not come with the equivalent tensioner to the latest OEM modified type, which is the longer one shown

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additionally, the gear cables on these don't come with the safety retainer clips shown below, I'm aware of their existence so I add them to some cars, both the R58's now have them, well worth fitting!

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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6,451 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
more on it today, last pic was this....

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before this 😂

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not before a couple of vids though.... ;O)


 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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6,451 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
A/C recharged today, nice and cool ;O)

Car had a quick wash and vac, road tested for longer, into Chester and back, drives well but not as quick as the white one hence a decision on mapping has been made, booked for Weds.

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Premium Member
2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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6,451 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
renewed my software licence so I could carry out all the updates this might be due,

which were DME, ABS/DSC, CAS, KOMBI, FRM, JBE, SRS, PAS, and more I can't remember, all up to date and recoded before the map on Weds,
 

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Premium Member
2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
Joined
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6,451 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Who are reliably mapping R56s now that Manic are gone?
1320 still are using one of the Manic people I think,

my car is only being done locally with a Celtic Tuning agent, only what is referred to as stage one for the moment, whoever buys it can take it further if they want, the white one was done here and it isn't slow, so will just do the same, 240 odd on a stock FJCW apparently, they did my Countryman SD also

Lohen I thought were still doing them too, but I personally would prefer to go to 1320
 
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my car is only being done locally with a Celtic Tuning agent
Celtic Tuning did a custom map on my car but it was a faff doing it remotely. I had to data log on the local rolling road and send files to them and they would tweak the map accordingly. It took ages but got there in the end.

Their off the shelf stage 1 is actually fairly nippy but their agents still have to data log and tweak for every car if it's a turbo petrol to make sure everything is tickety boo.

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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6,451 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I had felt the car seemed a bit woolly during higher speed acceleration on the way back from Chester hence the comment above, not as quick as the white one, I later had a sporadic 287e code on a fault check, with no EML and also a brief hunting on a cold start, this made me check the Vanos solenoid which I found stuck mid position, a wash out solved that so it moved freely, and quite simply the car just takes off since, clean acceleration,

arguably it doesn't really need a remap but I'd booked it, so it went,

before that, I renewed my software licence and carried out all the applicable software updates to the car, I don't want to map on an ECU that could've been updated, so the updates done were DME, ABS/DSC, KOMBI, JBE, FRM, CAS, SRS, PAS, and probably others I can't remember, all units coded, fault codes rechecked, then off to the map,

needless to say the car now flies along nicely, put my foot down a couple of times and it's quite pleasant, feeling the back of the car sink into the springs a bit as it clears off 😁

I won't do more to it, well I doubt it ....but might,

the car can be sold as it is but it is always tempting to fit some other stuff, those cams mentioned, an Airtec IC off another car or another new one I have, there's a sport cat on one of the other cars I could liberate as well, and a rear bar, and I was offered an Akrapovic sport cat which would be more tempting as it's better quality than the other, then Scorpion ones have a reasonable rep and they're cheaper new, in that case I'd have the map looked at again (if the cams are used) and tbh quite likely at 1320 then see where the power wants to go. If the cams have something then I wouldn't object to swapping the head to a ported one or at least one with different valves and springs, this is only crazy thoughts and definitely not a plan, as I say the car can be sold as it is.

I think it's an £11k car as is, with the higher spec it has including a rather rare JCW leather dash and Alcantara rails, if it was stock it'd be £9k, this makes it a cheap car, because for the difference it'd be hard to buy the forged bits with ARP let alone the race bearings or actually having any of it fitted. So at the moment I think it's a bit too cheap if anything. I'll think on it but currently I've mentioned it elsewhere at £11k so....

I'd also sell the motor less ancillaries for £5k, I'll just use something else, maybe another forged one as I keep the parts anyway. I have a +.50 block here, it'd just need re-honing to suit the clearance, crank was ground and already has race bearings for it, got another spare head so have options,

The car is great though, draws looks, flies along, nice cold a/c, could swap the wheels and tyres from the white one and do a couple of little things then revise the price, or not ;O)

I do have KW Club Sports on my 53 which are actually 56 variants, I have new top mounts for those to suit a 56, so a further option is to offer it with those fitted +£2k or just fit them if I hang onto it for a bit, soon though there'll be other coilovers I could add, these in the form of LanSpeed twin perch kit which I'm waiting for, only a few sets on the way at first, for R53 or R56, and R60 and related models.

then another silly thought is if the gearbox (final drive conversion) is now imminent, I could throw in a Quaife I have in stock and then likely would run the car myself as a demo for the box, at least for a bit....

several options then, including doing all this for the white one which I also really like even with slightly lower spec, there's just something about it,

as said though, at the moment the Silver Super Coupe can be sold, I have other stuff going on so no rush to change anything else just yet.

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cleaned the underside of the bonnet a bit too ;O)

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