[CarsOrBikes]

Silver Super Cooper gone, what better to replace it than a Silver Super Coupe 😁

Due Thursday 14/7

I like these, still got my white one, but that's being naughty,

This is the same, a factory JCW, this one has slightly higher spec in that there's an alcantara covered dash as well as heated lounge leather seats, and a heated screen,

It'll only end up sold in time, for now my job is to repair the motor which won't be a quick task, as one cylinder will need re-sleeving and this takes some time,

So my idea is to run it on a temporary motor, this will likely be the forged lump I was going to fit into the other Coupe, I will decide once the car is here and I can see what's what,

The car is a 12 plate, last of the N14's like my other one, similar mileage only having 75k.

 

[CarsOrBikes]

well it arrived

it's actually very nice overall

engine stuff put into four boxes and the boot, so will be a nice puzzle for Seany

the engine has been out at the previous owners local garage I think, then refitted, the clutch and flywheel are off and the box back on with the unit just hung in the car, OS shaft removed, AC compressor etc,

I'll take the head back off to see what I might want to do to it, I expect to find it coked up so will sort that out, then I'll probably not do any more until the bottom end I have here spare, is built up ready for a head,

 

[CarsOrBikes]

started to clean up the donor motor's block sections,

this isn't a C motor but it won't matter,

this has been bored .50mm and honed to accept forged pistons

so will assemble these into it once the rings are checked

the rods as you can see are 'I' beam rather than the usual H's one sees,

still with ARP2000 bolts, I have L19 but this won't rev that high for one think, and the motors hold condensation more than the 53 so best to refrain, those bolts don't like moisture,

I have a pair of development cams here now but undecided whether to put them into this particular motor, I might add them later.... the motor isn't necessarily staying in this car,

I believe Lohen might have tried this profile in one of their race cars or something, apparently getting it to work quite well, the issue I have is custom mapping.... or the lack of it ;O)

We'll see perhaps.... doesn't take too long to swap them in the great scheme of things

 

[KeithyCoop]

Nice looking little car.

 

[minimic67]

ho some money spent there is pics lol, before the time and effort and other parts added lol, nice looking car right colour and spec

 

[Fro-dizzle]

Looks pretty clean!

 

[CarsOrBikes]

Looks pretty clean!

strangely it was described as 5/10inside and 6/10 outside, sold by someone for parent, I wonder if they actually looked at it, sure the wheels are marked and there are indeed some chips which are tiny, but there aren't any trolley dings, paint scuffs, repairs, or broken stuff that I've seen yet bar a separating aux stop lamp lens, and a very small nsr lamp crack, inside has a tiny mark on the drivers seat like a make up mark, and some peel on the lower steering wheel trim, none of this imo warrants that kind of condition mark down for a ten year old car, if anything it's a 9 excepting the rims, in short, it's lovely. No doubt over coming days my rose tinted glasses will get cleaned and I'll find stuff but I've looked round it a few times and washed it etc. I thought the white one was nice and was ready to hang onto it hence mapping it and adding ARP stuff to it, now I might revise that idea😂

can't keep them all though....

rings checked and now on pistons, waiting for some wire locks tomorrow, can't find the others and not looking through everything, I suspect they're at the engineers actually,

I have options on bearings but will most likely use Mahle Motorsport ends and mains with King thrusts,

top and bottom bolts plus flywheel will be ARP,

chain in this one will be OEM and guides, tensioner, main seals, as well as oil pump,

I very nearly painted the block, still might especially as the temps outside are favourable, but it's time doing it, I'll consider it before I bolt the halves up,

head I haven't decided on, either one of the spares here or off one of the FJCW's, I've several that need cleaning so will go through them for bearing journal condition and other stuff before deciding,

 

[oldbrokenwind]

Have you verified that this combination of piston and rod will fit and rotate completely through a 360 deg crank rotation. I've read that sometimes the rod will hit a cylinder or piston wall. Not all combinations are compatible. With no assurances, maybe try a loose assembly and quick hand rotation.

 

[CarsOrBikes]

all that stuff will follow,

decided I would paint the block, only brushed, so it's streaky right now although will look better with another coat or two,

 

[CarsOrBikes]

so bearings I'm using in this are King Race not Mahle, those can go in the other one

pistons in now the replacement wire locks arrived

just a preliminary check with the crank in to see what fouls where.... nothing does, close, but clear. Will look with the endoscope to see just how close but it doesn't touch at all anywhere.

ignore the over painting of the edges, that'll chip away on a blade, cleared a bit of it after these pics and will show that later, still a bit rough as it is only brushed but looking red enough I think

it'll probably all come apart again and be recleaned, bolts run through on ARP lube as always, then go together with a view to staying together....

 

[CarsOrBikes]

cleaned some of the painted edges off, bit neater....

 

[Cooper 04]

cleaned some of the painted edges off, bit neater....

View attachment 108179 View attachment 108180 View attachment 108181

What type of paint did you use,and how do you think it,ll last?

 

[Chalky13]

I wish I had a) the time and b) the ability to take an engine out, strip it and make it look so nice

 

[CarsOrBikes]

What type of paint did you use,and how do you think it,ll last?

on this it's POR15 engine enamel,

last? Don't know tbh, I could have used the metal prep prior but chose not to on this as the exterior corrosion was minimal, can always do it again, only a temp motor, unless someone wants to pay for it in the car,

 

[CarsOrBikes]

I wish I had a) the time and b) the ability to take an engine out, strip it and make it look so nice

it can be time heavy that's for sure 🍻

 

[CarsOrBikes]

so, I felt like pulling the old motor out and stripping on a dull Sunday evening....

as usual the whole thing covered in oil,

this is a perfect example of general garages working on cars, rounded e torx bolts in places, broken power cable lug, fractured top engine bracket rear bolt thread jacket, wrong bolt in rocker cover, nsf wheel bolts tighter than some driveshaft nuts, and they did a timing chain in May, advising potential consequences, they made no attempt to clean the block by the looks of it, they definitely didn't renew the oil pump chain, and it's so loose it hits the pump and bedplate, just average, and probably rushed,

anyway, motor out, box off, head off,

No.3 melted piston, damaged bore,

head at first glance appears alright,

block split,

crank out,

block with pistons about to be pushed out, No.3 needed little resistance to move it compared to others,

and a bare block after oilers removed,

damage obvious,

actually you can see what imo appears to be detonation marks starting on No.2, same position in the bore so I suspect it could be,

I'll wash these off and drop the block off for sleeving, pretty sure it will go again, would be nice if we can avoid a re-bore but is what it is....

crank journals all look nice, cam journals and head all look nice,

I have a spare top motor bracket fortunately, the bolt for it has some areas of galling in the threads so will see if that cleans, if not will get a new bolt along with the missing rocker cover one, haven't looked in my 56 bolt spares, same for the few gearbox ones, one in particular,

oil pick up was clear, I'll open the pump to take a look at the rotor barrel, if good I'll use it again, if not this, on 'something'.

 

[CarsOrBikes]

block dropped off so it's out of the way, along with a Tritec for re-bore, it'll be good if the Prince one comes out in size but I doubt it, few light score marks on 2, and some low points in the ring dwell areas, we'll see,

sometimes those come back just slightly darker which hand finishing cleans up, having next to no size difference, just where the stones don't clean completely, so will just find out initially after a test hone,

I'll wash off and store the other bits for later, and will refocus on the red lump now....

the head I'll strip very soon, and will get it all washed off, then we'll see what carbon there is to remove from valves and the ports,

new toy due in a couple of days which might help make this a bit easier, or at least keep me and stuff in the vicinity cleaner

fair bit bigger than my existing one I think, which still takes heads, blocks, full trailing arms, however this is a better front loader and a purpose built job rather than an adapted cabinet that mine is, albeit decent 'for what it is',

the other one I'll sell on very easily, this replacement is said to be media tight, so it could allow me to rearrange stuff and have it in the other garage perhaps, I'll look at that potential later, not the end of the world if not,

it'll pay for itself soon enough.

 

[CarsOrBikes]

Have you verified that this combination of piston and rod will fit and rotate completely through a 360 deg crank rotation. I've read that sometimes the rod will hit a cylinder or piston wall. Not all combinations are compatible. With no assurances, maybe try a loose assembly and quick hand rotation.

couple of pics to show just how close stuff is ;O)

also a short clip:

 

[CarsOrBikes]

I pulled the valves from the original head, and as expected they're a bit coked up,

soon sorted that....

then the head got stripped of all carbon and staining after a pre-clean to remove the oilier bits

I'll go over it again tomorrow morning briefly, then will give the valves a brighten up before reassembling and lapping in etc.

 

[CarsOrBikes]

rods tightened, oil jets in, bedplate/bearing ladder on....

rods clearing bedplate alright, ARP main stud kit used

rear main in and crank sensor, as you can see I decided not to bother continue painting the back of the motor

new OEM oil pump, OEM pump chain, new OEM crank sprockets, OEM chain and guides

baffle on also and blind plugs in

and sump on

still to assemble the head/s for these, before putting the one below the bench together also

head can go on soon