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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
well, it's not a 56 but is a Gen 2, can't help it if the forum doesn't cater for the other cars....

It's a dead R58 Coupe SD JCW Aero car, it's in pretty nice shape and solid black which we know is the fastest colour, so is worth saving

got a few things going on but the main one shows the symptom of a failed clutch arm

coolant is low and appears to be weak so has been topped up with water I suspect
some soot around turbo heat shield area
nsf rim dented, very slight nsr also
minor trolley ding in boot
few little marks on paint to polish off including old viper stripe outline or will re-apply them
some wear on the seat bases, just a couple of cracks in the leather
tyres not matching
chip in screen
battery flat/weak
brakes rusting, car did around 150 miles in eight months, sat for two as a non-runner
one remote key
rear silencer has been deleted

other than that, it looks nice, couldn't start it with the issue.... yet

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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6,767 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Very nice.
Love the wheels.
they're a bit marked up actually but yes, me too

I do have some wheel options including new OEM sets of these so I might sell the current set on as they are and use an alternative, we'll see, or they'll get powder coated, probably silver with a sparkle
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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6,767 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Another one ready to live again.
ha, yes hopefully, but there is work ahead :ROFLMAO:

currently, it's here, having arrived yesterday, and had just enough battery power to keep the steering lock off so it could be pushed into place and close the window with some help lifting the glass, so now it's hooked up to one of the CTEK's and will sit there for a couple of days charging fully I hope, if not yet another battery purchase is on the cards, this one does look fairly recent so let's hope it recovers

while that's doing its thing, I will remove the slave cylinder and get a feel for the clutch fork, and if there's enough of a power supply, I'll scan the car for historic codes and get a software update initial report so I can see what's there, I'll save a fault report and clear what I can, then save another of what's left

I haven't heard it run yet, the owner only used it as a weekend car if even then, and when the clutch went it was just left, so ideally, I'd like to try and run it up to get some idea of things before I take it apart

it wouldn't surprise me at 130k odd to find the heater plugs are all failing, and the best chance of getting those buggers out without shearing, is with the motor as hot as possible, so that will be one aim

if the clutch fork is broken, I have to try and make sure it isn't fouling the clutch itself before trying to run it, so I'll look to turn it over by hand and see what I can detect,

the owner didn't attempt to get anything done, and had said the clutch pedal went solid, so if the pedal won't go down on one of these the starter won't work, on arrival though, the pedal was down, so perhaps someone just pushed it harder who knows, it might now need a slave cylinder if they have

not much will happen right away as I currently have the Clubman's motor out, reinstating its original, so that car is a priority, should be done by the weekend, then hopefully a head swap on the white Coupe, reinstating its original during next week if the Clubby is all ok, plus I might look at the park sensors on the black R56 and disable the spot lamp warning as those were removed, then those three cars can go hopefully, although I have an MOT to get done today that we are suspecting might have some work to do, I haven't checked it so if it fails it fails, and that might shift priorities about depending on outcome
 

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ha, yes hopefully, but there is work ahead :ROFLMAO:

currently, it's here, having arrived yesterday, and had just enough battery power to keep the steering lock off so it could be pushed into place and close the window with some help lifting the glass, so now it's hooked up to one of the CTEK's and will sit there for a couple of days charging fully I hope, if not yet another battery purchase is on the cards, this one does look fairly recent so let's hope it recovers

while that's doing its thing, I will remove the slave cylinder and get a feel for the clutch fork, and if there's enough of a power supply, I'll scan the car for historic codes and get a software update initial report so I can see what's there, I'll save a fault report and clear what I can, then save another of what's left

I haven't heard it run yet, the owner only used it as a weekend car if even then, and when the clutch went it was just left, so ideally, I'd like to try and run it up to get some idea of things before I take it apart

it wouldn't surprise me at 130k odd to find the heater plugs are all failing, and the best chance of getting those buggers out without shearing, is with the motor as hot as possible, so that will be one aim

if the clutch fork is broken, I have to try and make sure it isn't fouling the clutch itself before trying to run it, so I'll look to turn it over by hand and see what I can detect,

the owner didn't attempt to get anything done, and had said the clutch pedal went solid, so if the pedal won't go down on one of these the starter won't work, on arrival though, the pedal was down, so perhaps someone just pushed it harder who knows, it might now need a slave cylinder if they have

not much will happen right away as I currently have the Clubman's motor out, reinstating its original, so that car is a priority, should be done by the weekend, then hopefully a head swap on the white Coupe, reinstating its original during next week if the Clubby is all ok, plus I might look at the park sensors on the black R56 and disable the spot lamp warning as those were removed, then those three cars can go hopefully, although I have an MOT to get done today that we are suspecting might have some work to do, I haven't checked it so if it fails it fails, and that might shift priorities about depending on outcome
off topic got a question for you ,, you use autel scan tool dont you, which model is it ,, need one that plays well with the n18 engines , ie reset adaptions and shows live data for vanos timing and vvt system as well being able to reset the adaptions,, i believe yours will do them all ,, got given a snap on top of range tool to use today and its proper rubbish with mini and the above so i'm thinking along lines of autel mk908 elite perhaps, just need to know it will cover the in depth i need as i always get the hard ones these days
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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6,767 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
off topic got a question for you ,, you use autel scan tool dont you, which model is it ,, need one that plays well with the n18 engines , ie reset adaptions and shows live data for vanos timing and vvt system as well being able to reset the adaptions,, i believe yours will do them all ,, got given a snap on top of range tool to use today and its proper rubbish with mini and the above so i'm thinking along lines of autel mk908 elite perhaps, just need to know it will cover the in depth i need as i always get the hard ones these days
Hi Mike, actually I remember you asking me before and I can't remember saying.
Mine is an Autel Maxisys Elite, researched what I could and sought one that coded stuff but also can apply software updates
It's interesting you ask about the Vanos specifics as actually on the N14 it doesn't show me what I thought it could or should, yet on the few 12's I've had here, those do give more info on Vanos positions target/actual etc.
No doubt you'd get better use out of this than me as you're more of a diagnostic dude chasing erroneous stuff, me, I'm mechanical, and reluctant to get involved in random warning lights that show every third Wednesday turning right uphill in the rain :ROFLMAO:

Might sell this one soon and will possibly take on the Ultra but it's a shed load of money at close to 6k, this one wasn't cheap either tbf, just renewed the licence in September I think, probably still worth a couple, still has the screen film on it, licences are around 1.3k normally I think, I tend to take a breather between renewal but as always, something comes in that means I need to have it active so get forced into renewing

other than the above, I have only one very minor gripe with it and that is that it won't save a revised idle speed on the gen one petrol car, it will on the gen two, this only bugs me when fitting a cam where I need to bump the idle, so I have to take it to someone with an Autologic terminal to save it

actually, there're two gripes now I mention that one, again with gen one cars, it won't show available DME updates which I know are available, so again I have to go to Autologic to get the latest software applied before having the cars mapped where I do, other than that mate the thing is great really, it does all the others

Today I got this car running, so had the kit on that running through all sorts, wanted to have an idea of looming issues before I pull the motor and don't action stuff that'd only be evident after the engine was refitted, muggins here would be doing the job twice probably had I not got to find out anything prior.
All the injector values, rail pressure, all good, EGR function good, lets me freeze or record live data, lets me see engine data at fixed rpm positions, 1, 2, or 3k, or custom value, can see expected DPF remaining life of nearly 180,000km's, back pressure, I guess most will do similar, but this seems to work quite well and as said, will do software updates, most retrofit programming too, as well as code some functions on or off etc.

BMW and Mercedes software is pretty much direct with this, others you can apply but are more likely to have to utilise the dealer platform potentially to complete the task, maybe for files transfer etc, where the BMW files can be downloaded anywhere there is a mobile phone signal or WiFi, the tablet will hook up to a mobile phone hotspot and transfer the data that way, it checks the files and can be updated as a block or individual elements which is what I tend to do mostly but not always, it gives the time each update will take so we can see the effect of a cumulative update vs available time or decide on the risk to battery etc. It then rewrites the vehicle order, CBS date, time/date, and sometimes will perform post programming resets like windows or steering angle sensor etc, or they can be done via another window. It will reprogramme service intervals, done this on a couple

The touch screen works wearing Nitrile gloves so no faffing there taking gloves off, it does the brake bleed and all the normal stuff, loads of active tests as well as live data, and on every model, if you buy the kit, it will also reset the ADAS lane departure systems or calibrate them, but I haven't gone there

It's a good thing and I'd buy it again, I've had it on Porsche, Audi, Mercedes, Jag, no hassle, only one car that was a pain was a Peugeot RCZ where the OBD is very slightly different, the car side has a moulded lump in the socket which pushes the kit plug over and as a result will bend two of the pins if not very careful, so on that car I trimmed off the lump from the OBD socket, otherwise no problem with it, only 4yrs old iirc.

I want the newer one in the hope it does those things mentioned but despite mailing them they haven't answered so probably don't know themselves, will probably get it anyway, maybe when this Coupe sells....
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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6,767 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So, had a look at this today, and got it running ;O)

Clutch is a causal issue, didn't take the slave off yet to inspect the release arm but pretty sure a very heavy clutch will have led to its fatigue and failure

the seller had said the pedal went hard, but when it got here the pedal was on the floor, live data said the pedal wasn't depressed when it was, so I removed the lower dash to explore and found the master cylinder pushrod end snapped off and the pushrod bent. I think that says enough about the resistance at the clutch end, someone has just forced it and trashed the cylinder

I released fluid from the slave cylinder so the master cylinder could be compressed by means of improvisation, that allowed it to close and activate the switch which the diagnostic confirmed

I hit the start button and it fired right up

chain tensioner caused some chain rattle for a few seconds until oil got round then it was silent, well as silent as a derv gets, so left it running to get some tests done.
 
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Hi Mike, actually I remember you asking me before and I can't remember saying.
Mine is an Autel Maxisys Elite, researched what I could and sought one that coded stuff but also can apply software updates
It's interesting you ask about the Vanos specifics as actually on the N14 it doesn't show me what I thought it could or should, yet on the few 12's I've had here, those do give more info on Vanos positions target/actual etc.
No doubt you'd get better use out of this than me as you're more of a diagnostic dude chasing erroneous stuff, me, I'm mechanical, and reluctant to get involved in random warning lights that show every third Wednesday turning right uphill in the rain :ROFLMAO:

Might sell this one soon and will possibly take on the Ultra but it's a shed load of money at close to 6k, this one wasn't cheap either tbf, just renewed the licence in September I think, probably still worth a couple, still has the screen film on it, licences are around 1.3k normally I think, I tend to take a breather between renewal but as always, something comes in that means I need to have it active so get forced into renewing

other than the above, I have only one very minor gripe with it and that is that it won't save a revised idle speed on the gen one petrol car, it will on the gen two, this only bugs me when fitting a cam where I need to bump the idle, so I have to take it to someone with an Autologic terminal to save it

actually, there're two gripes now I mention that one, again with gen one cars, it won't show available DME updates which I know are available, so again I have to go to Autologic to get the latest software applied before having the cars mapped where I do, other than that mate the thing is great really, it does all the others

Today I got this car running, so had the kit on that running through all sorts, wanted to have an idea of looming issues before I pull the motor and don't action stuff that'd only be evident after the engine was refitted, muggins here would be doing the job twice probably had I not got to find out anything prior.
All the injector values, rail pressure, all good, EGR function good, lets me freeze or record live data, lets me see engine data at fixed rpm positions, 1, 2, or 3k, or custom value, can see expected DPF remaining life of nearly 180,000km's, back pressure, I guess most will do similar, but this seems to work quite well and as said, will do software updates, most retrofit programming too, as well as code some functions on or off etc.

BMW and Mercedes software is pretty much direct with this, others you can apply but are more likely to have to utilise the dealer platform potentially to complete the task, maybe for files transfer etc, where the BMW files can be downloaded anywhere there is a mobile phone signal or WiFi, the tablet will hook up to a mobile phone hotspot and transfer the data that way, it checks the files and can be updated as a block or individual elements which is what I tend to do mostly but not always, it gives the time each update will take so we can see the effect of a cumulative update vs available time or decide on the risk to battery etc. It then rewrites the vehicle order, CBS date, time/date, and sometimes will perform post programming resets like windows or steering angle sensor etc, or they can be done via another window. It will reprogramme service intervals, done this on a couple

The touch screen works wearing Nitrile gloves so no faffing there taking gloves off, it does the brake bleed and all the normal stuff, loads of active tests as well as live data, and on every model, if you buy the kit, it will also reset the ADAS lane departure systems or calibrate them, but I haven't gone there

It's a good thing and I'd buy it again, I've had it on Porsche, Audi, Mercedes, Jag, no hassle, only one car that was a pain was a Peugeot RCZ where the OBD is very slightly different, the car side has a moulded lump in the socket which pushes the kit plug over and as a result will bend two of the pins if not very careful, so on that car I trimmed off the lump from the OBD socket, otherwise no problem with it, only 4yrs old iirc.

I want the newer one in the hope it does those things mentioned but despite mailing them they haven't answered so probably don't know themselves, will probably get it anyway, maybe when this Coupe sells....
thanks that is a good bit of info,, one other question have you had it on n18 engines much and will it play with vanos system in depth , i'm at a cross roads really its I got access to a number of diagnostics tools from work that I fill in the gaps with delphi being best so far to be honest but a £10k system with all the updates and genuine licenses, think worst one is a snap on verus really bad coverage on mini petrols,,
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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6,767 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
pic shows top of master cylinder push rod snapped off

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interior fwiw

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ran the car up to get some useful info, doesn't look like I need to worry about injection system or DPF, EGR, or much else actually

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some serious fuel pressure right there....^
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
smooth running test done

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the few screenshots were only me checking the reaction of the injectors with minor throttle input

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good news really

this was just looking at values at a fixed running speed of 1k, can do 2, 3, or custom to look at what stuff is doing

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curious about the air mass readings, didn't check elsewhere in the rpm range, also swirl flap which may be normal at 1k, they do soot up though, boost pressure small variance isn't uncommon, less than 1% rail pressure variance isn't of concern imo, and crank/cam synchronisation I'll check, there's another area in here that states where it should be, it's a bit of a pain actually, quite a job rechecking timing, so will adopt a method I use on the petrol engines, basically, chains settle after an initial run, on the N14 it's no drama pulling the cover to recheck but these are just a different animal, even the crank locking pin is awkward in comparison.

I turn the motors over maybe 20 or 30 times by hand on the 14's with new chains, having learnt how much they can drop back (retard), and now it's less of a thing, so on this one I'll do the same, I didn't so much on the Countryman so when rechecking that, had to pull the cover, which meant also pulling the injectors, fuel rail, move the supply pipe and more. Adjustment isn't infinite as on the petrol (neither is the scope for error), these just have three elongated bolt holes in the top sprocket, and a simple cam tool, mine actually isn't an OEM one for the diesel like I have for the petrol, so if this car even after lots of rotations, shows a need to make a further adjustment, I'll be buying the OEM tool for a sense check perhaps. The aftermarket tools for the petrol motor are not reliable and there's every chance despite the one I have being better quality, that it too could be a little inaccurate, so we'll see.

I think at the moment that I expect to be doing:

Valeo clutch
OEM clutch arm
Valeo DMF
OEM timing chains and guides
OEM rear main seal
Possibly TVD (torsional vibration damper) and possibly the belt
Heater plugs removal and refit 'if' they want to move, these have no codes so it's purely an exercise to move them and lube the threads for future ease, will do (try) when hot prior to motor out
Clean inlet manifold and swirl system of soot build up
Clean DPF (soak/flush)
Clean EGR of soot build up
Flush cooling system

Possible oil pump renewal if not strip/check
Possible crank bearings
Possible stem seals and clean head with valve re-lap

Brake fluid change
Front pads and possibly discs
Rear pads
Fuel filter
Microfilter
Air filter
Oil and filter will be done with engine work

All pending software updates will typically be done, and service display will be re-programmed to ask for oil change at 9k

Boot release might get renewed as it only releases on the key currently

Wheels to be refurbished or renewed with alternatives potentially

OSR puncture repair

AC recharge

Possibly new cam cover - a post for the engine cover is missing which will annoy me

I might reinstate a rear silencer, although the current delete makes no additional noise it seems at least on the driveway

Swap locking bolts with standard, one was missing anyway although I happened to have three bolts from a matching key set so could use those and have two keys if inclined (unlikely)

I 'might' give thought to swapping the front brakes to AP 4pot as I have some kicking about, but as usual I reserve the right to totally change my mind there:rolleyes:

I might take the lump out in the short term but can't see me getting too involved until the Clubby is back on the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
these turned up for the options stash

nice new OEM R105 18's.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
clutch master cylinder due today

all timing chain parts due tomorrow, OEM for those, and clutch arm, plus boot handle for the release switch that isn't working,

need to sort a clutch and probably DMF still

these also turned up for the options stash.... probably won't end up on this car but could on my black 53

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
well absolutely nothing happened with this car for months :rolleyes:

I did move it into position for work before Christmas but then several cylinder head jobs arrived and it got relocated back to where it was in front of the other garage, thinking maybe I'd start doing stuff while it was there, although I didn't

since then I also had my R53 apart again which is always a priority of course:ROFLMAO:

now though, the derv burner is back where I wanted it as of last week, for me to start looking at it....

first job was a rinse, despite not going anywhere it was looking a bit scruffy, then decided exactly where I wanted it, settling on off to one side in the hope I might have access to get my classic Mini out when this is in bits

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up in the air front only

Car Vehicle Land vehicle Tire Wheel


and into the quagmire, starting with acoustic cover and sound deadening, wiper arms, windscreen aprons, and main scuttle panel

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gives a bit more room at the back if required

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take a look at the base of that oil filler neck.... interesting 'repair' :unsure::censored:

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headlamps out on this one as the bolts weren't seized, most I'll leave in, not touching the lower two bolts, and take the lamps out on the front panel

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started to disconnect engine loom, front bumper off and carrier as well as slam panel

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and front panel assembly away with condenser left connected as usual

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various discoveries noted during removal of things....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
initial observations other than the car being a mobile oil slick down the back and below the engine which is largely due to a seriously bodged rocker cover glued together at the base of the filler neck,

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the left windscreen apron is a bit broken in a couple of places, not pictured yet

the brake servo pipe traversing the engine has melted/chafed through so the car simply wouldn't have had servo assistance

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the ventilation pipe to the crankcase breather valve which is built into the rear of the rocker cover and the pipe crossing from it to the rear air filter elbow to the turbo intake had cracked just inside one of the ends that forms a clip, not pictured yet

the DPF pressure sensor supply hose has chafed through near the lower end behind the oil filler neck

Water Fish Fluid Wood Metal


some other residue from what looks like plastic metal was found between No.2 injector and the rocker cover but I can't see a reason for it, suspecting it was left over from the other bodge, not pictured

the torsional vibration damper is splitting at the front, and is quite easily pulled away from the inner section suggesting the rubber is weak

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the aux belt is oil contaminated and looks a bit tired, not pictured, no doubt oil also affecting the TVD

there was no antifreeze in it, the lower inlet manifold to EGR flange bolt was loose, one of the fuel rail bolts was loose, one of the gear selector cable bracket bolts was loose, the airbox rubber bung on the EGR cooler is split, the engine's acoustic cover is broken and one of the locating posts on the rocker cover for it is missing, no doubt I'll find other bits

ebay used parts sourced today were:
DPF pressure sensor with hose
rocker cover
brake servo vacuum pipe
left windscreen apron

new part was limited to the ventilation pipe

need to source a new TVD and aux belt which will be ebay/local factor most likely

grim under here

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hard to see but it goes all the way up top

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quite a mess really and surely must have smelt a bit with crankcase fumes seeping and leaked oil getting hot etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
it got left almost ready to remove the lump

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until the next day when it was out

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engine bay a bit slimy

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and the lump itself ready for a bit of a clean before play

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pretty sure most of this is down to the rocker cover state, possibly some poor filling in the past as well, it'll all get cleaned
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
more goo

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then the box came off to quickly reveal the collapsed clutch arm

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which had started to hit the clutch after the pedal had been pressed again bending the arm further

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gave the bay a bit of a clean

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
box will also get cleaned, the guide sleeve will get renewed on this, it's a potential factor of failure, if the release bearing jams or is tight on it the arm gets strained, and by the look of the clutch cover I'm wondering if this might have already had a clutch as the machining lines are still clearly evident which for a 135k car would be unusual on an original, still it will end up with another one, undecided on the flywheel but it is likely

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put away, not much space with six blocks here and there

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this is the not so obvious split breather pipe which will also have been depositing oil around stuff, common breakages for these

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I'd had a clean around of the block with the DPF in situ, needed to swing the DPF out of the way to get the OS shaft mount bracket off so I could in turn remove the lower mount bracket from the sump (which has a missing bolt), only to discover why there was a sooty area behind the engine, which was that the cat/DPF was loose at the turbo, not just a bit loose but not apparently tightened, clamp can be spun by hand easily....

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soon cleaned the rest of that shite off

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and at the pulley end

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shows the degree of soot build up here, car must have stunk surely,



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sump off, pleasantly sludge free in here, simply rinsed away this, and no bits, good for 135k really, no sludge forming on top either that is obvious currently

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all looking nice enough I think, ignore the blueing on the crank, seems to be how the diesel cranks are,

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
it appears to have some just looking at it briefly, I note this one doesn't have swirl flaps like the CM did, and the inlet manifold is definitely cleaner, ports don't look hideous, this was one of the valves from the 58k CM fwiw,

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I don't think these Coupe ones will be so bad, I'll poke the scope down to see a bit better,
 
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