MiniTorque.com banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
06 r53 checkmate
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So after getting myself a r53 and selling my 280bhp 1 series my (better half) misses now wants a mini after driving mine ?? so her 1 series is going to for a cooper s

Going to have a look at this tomorrow, what are the main factors and things I need to be looking at and for checking ect ?? I'm good with turbo cars but this is the first mini and super charger car I've owned so I feel like a virgin with no idea

Basically -
02 cooper s
97k on the clock
Loads of history
Aftermarket exhaust
Coilovers
Wheels blah blah blah
Says its got a jcw engine mod what ever that is haha

The car was the blokes kids who's moved to aus so he's selling it

Past mots arnt bad just your normal tyre and brake shit

Here's the motor in question

Cheers
 

Attachments

·
Registered
06 r53 checkmate
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
If I had my way I'd get her a fl or 05 onwards as my lsd is spot on, but she don't drive like me haha, just after common faults to look for ect mate
 

·
MIN-Tily Challenged
Joined
·
7,627 Posts
FYI earlier models
the headlights lights are utter crap, you best not drive at night out of town.
no boot release under rear bench seat if you get a flat battery.
id be looking at all wheel bearings/drive shafts on any lowered mini with thin tyres and heavy wheels
if it has a cheap coil over kit you can also assume its unlikely to have been set up correctly so I would check for even tread across full with of tyres esp inside edges

there will be some basic buyers guides in the press or on piston heads etc google away, but at the bottom end of the market there’s enough cars around to be choosy.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,641 Posts
there is a lot to consider potentially on any used R53, including concealed things that affect many of them, others may not say because they haven't seen stuff perhaps, or even refuse to accept it with the absence of symptoms, some fairly common things that might not be obvious are underlying, so engine rattles is one, often just a tensioner but these should run quiet, and it isn't always so simple. Cooling fan not working on both speeds is another, minor enough in itself but the cooling system can suffer as a result of running hotter but with more pressure, sometimes for years, incorrect coolant and neglected cooling systems is a very common problem, scaled and sedimented or blocked at the heat exchanger/oil cooler or it's pipe/s, scale in galleries affecting cooling, heater matrix restricted, these can go unnoticed for years, especially the heat exchanger. Take a look at the coolant, if orange or brown looking at all it's your first clue, if it's pink/red it'll probably scale up and/or corrode if not already, and turn orange/brown, listen for two fan stages, if you only hear a frequent loud fan it's only working on stage 2. You won't be able to check the heat exchanger, but you can at least squeeze the hoses just before it, if one hose, typically the bottom one doesn't squeeze the blockage is bad, but the hose squeezing doesn't mean it isn't, still worth seeing. Turn steering to left lock and you might just reach the connection to the exchanger. Oil running hotter, lubrication system varnishing up and increasing already accelerated wear, there is no way to check this, only with the rocker cover off, if the head is brown or dark goldish colour it's a sign, frequent oil changes with the right oil and correct oil levels will leave this pretty clean for many years and decent mileage so speaks for itself. Crank bearings will be showing wear from as early as 50k anyway, end float often higher from heavy clutches or just sitting at lights with clutch depressed. Oil leaks frequently described as normal that in truth have been ignored for years, heavy clutches as said, contaminated, and/or just cheap like many maintenance parts, general abuse, including running them hard with smaller pulleys and no custom map all of them really need, again potentially accelerating crank bearing wear. All you can do is hear it from stone cold, hopefully the oil light will go out immediately but it's no gauge for wear really, only when too late, noise though is. Excess lash in gear linkages or tight selection, clutch biting high due to wear.

Some poorly modified which most of us have seen at some point, some on the back of poor advice, open exhausts and intakes, cheap heavy intercoolers, rough work including general stuff, parts cut about or just broken, lack of mapping as above. I often see missing gearbox bolts from rushed or improvised repairs removing the minimum possible making them harder to refit than remove perhaps, one I have for sale now was the same. Then they may have no map or generic crap etc. Accepting people have budgets, but the way to do it if that's the case is make sure the engine is sound and reliable first, then add a cam which is not dependent on a map, and brings with it zero intake heat issues, but it never happens that way, cheap power is always a priority for 'best bang for buck' seekers, and as a result the engines on many are being thrashed and screaming out for help, unfortunately many people online say these are 'fine' or they 'never had any issues' by doing so but it doesn't make the advice good or change the fact the engine isn't happy, it just hasn't failed yet, and it won't be making the best power. Anything with a 15% pulley or smaller will be pinking/detonating at 5.5k plus probably, all the time risking damage as you may well be aware. If a map wasn't required, the JCW cars wouldn't have one for an 11% pulley, although it has some exhaust porting the map isn't just for that. Hornets nest of opinion that one, but plenty of melted pistons, knackered big ends, melted plugs etc. Then worn driveshafts, vibrations under load might be apparent, wheel bearings, often already replaced with the cheapest parts, sometimes trashed by slamming the cars or just abuse, poor suspension choices. Rear brakes can bind, cars may be incorrect spec due to people swapping stuff, no original parts supplied to restore where required, all sorts really.

Worn brake reaction bushes (lower arm rear bush - front) are very common, put a foot on the top front of a front wheel and try to kick the wheel backwards, if either move easily the bush is dead. Check the parking brake to see how high it comes up, a sign the rear calipers are stuck, brake wear can be uneven, maybe a reason. Pedal travel etc. Feel for leaked oil at the engine/box joint, up behind the sump, rear mains have a tell tale hole but frequently show out from the lower starter bolt and will be felt wet here, not just a sump leak which of course it still can be too. Also out of the clutch fork bush if rear mains have been left longer sometimes. Lots of stuff really haha. Staining below the rad top hose or top of alternator, coolant leaks from the rad show here. Alternator housings crack. Bottom of A/C condenser rots out, A/C pipe next to rad bottom hose, larger crimped end splits. Check low speed fan perhaps with A/C on, one way to test it, should come on fairly quietly, gentle breeze felt by throttle housing if working. Pull on tops of wheels, especially front, wheel bearing play and bottom ball joint, and track rod end play are all common. Check for below front bumper cover damage, often a deflector is cut off and speed ramp damage may exist, radiator panel damaged at the bottom etc. Engine tray missing? Air intake boot to air cleaner split? Top of air box loose? People snap the loops off the back and strip the plastic threads at the front. Intercooler boots perished? Drive belt tensioner bouncing around much? Should be a tensioner safety strap visible above the tensioner body with at least part of a small hole visible ideally, or belt is worn/incorrect. Coolant staining or smell anywhere? Often near expansion tank, these are said to be weak, they may be to a degree but mostly made to leak as a result of the cooling fan and higher system pressure. Look at the shield below the tank, if it's been a problem or still might be these are often stained. Car forcing coolant out of the cap under pressure etc. There are cheap cars even people here will point to, but nearly all of the cheapest cars 'will' have underlying issues and more. All you can do is take your time to look, yes if you don't buy something, somebody else will, but it may not be a smart purchase on their part so don't be pressured. I have no idea what your expectations or budget are so all the above may be of little use haha.

personally I like the pre facelift for its additional top engine brace and ratios, few might agree but only opinion. The things I like about the facelift are small cosmetic things, headlamp style, reverse lights in lamps, longer arm rests on door cards, dash difference, moved airbag etc, trivia really, the Teflon supercharger and factory LSD are the biggest two plus points of the facelift car but both bolt on, the diff is still frequently replaced with a gear diff anyway, and chargers can be swapped very easily. Some like the little pops and bangs the later ECU helps with, neither add power, just a small noise which can diminish as the state of tune increases, only heard slowing down anyway, hardly a deal breaker. The later ECU though is supposed to be a bit better but nothing people would likely notice in use really. Also the early car hangs its revs between gears a little more under 4k, I don't like it so much from cold but it's nothing. You sadly cannot retrofit the early engine steady to the later car. Then there's a three spoke steering wheel on most later cars, again easily swapped over. Not much in them overall that makes a massive difference, the rear suspension does have a significant advantage in that it has adjustable camber in the late car but again it's an easy bolt on mod, with many opting for R56 trailing arms anyway. So just some niceties that don't stand out for everyone yet we all seem to push people towards later cars, I do myself, just finished a little nicer and with some different options and subtle improvements as with all cars as they evolve.

The standard LSD is a nice thing to have vs nothing though, although a gear diff is night and day again.

with Minis being so diverse in spec you just have to go with what your other half might like and overall condition or spec you might believe to be better, I found it hard to get what I wanted some years back and plenty still say the same now, not everyone has a wish list though, so I'm sure there'll be something for you.

I can't say I'd be drawn to a car being sold on behalf of someone, there'll be a fair amount of information not available perhaps, but it could appear alright, your call.

Fwiw I have one for sale, 03, Silver car so a slightly unusual colour perhaps, 133k, engine is out being stripped and cleaned with valves re-lapped, new big ends and main bearings, all seals and gaskets required, valve stem seals etc, on Marketplace or @WirralMini, very long ad and about 70 images of work in progress currently. Not an engine recon just a clean/refresh, all old oil varnishing gone, pistons checked for cracks, all good, same rings but can renew for another £200 etc. I can build the engine to various specs for the cost of parts if quick before it goes together, good time for a cam, it needs one anyway, I will put it together stock otherwise. I have diff options, cost of part and token labour cost etc. All sorts. Probably too dear for many but worth a mention ;O) Above average car with a nice spec, full black leather, cruise, climate, pan roof, Harmon Kardon, factory reverse park sensors, Xenon lamps. I have a number of used parts, flywheels, exhausts, diff, and supply other stuff etc.


99369

99356

99359
99360
99361
99370
99367
99368
99357
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: JKo and Agear071r53

·
Registered
06 r53 checkmate
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Cheers for that Sean your an absolute top lad ????, see it looked a clean mini and was offering a straight swap for our lasses 05 plate 120d with 150k on the clock witch isn't gonna cost me a penny so I'm happy haha, she's got her heart set on a mini and he's quite local to us with him being in Runcorn, I'll get there and check all I can with what you've said above, many thanks again bud
 

·
Registered
06 r53 checkmate
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
So been to pick her mini up, tbh I checked alot of stuff and it's rather clean, had a new chain at 71k and is now on 92k, loads and load of service history aswell

Lowered on jom coil overs ?? so they will be changed

Dizenza cat back

Davey air box

Jcw gear knob and hand brake ?? eyeing them up for mine haha

Question for you all tho, on the engine bay next to the ignition coil pack where mini says mini, here's has a jcw tuning kit badge and serial number... Any ideas what that's is

???Carsorbikes I'm looking in your direction hahaha
 

Attachments

·
Registered
06 r53 checkmate
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Ohh and driving home from work my drive belt decides to shed like 4 layers, new one picked up, that's tomorrows job sorted haha
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,894 Posts
Question for you all tho, on the engine bay next to the ignition coil pack where mini says mini, here's has a jcw tuning kit badge and serial number... Any ideas what that's is
Well that usually means that the car has the JCW kit... probably the early 200hp kit (head with bigger exhaust ports, -11% pulley, cat-back exhaust and tune) if there's no JCW logo on the airbox. Of course it's possible that the valve cover has been swapped from a JCW car and it has no other parts... Badges in the front bumber/boot? Logos on the exhaust tips?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,641 Posts
Comparison stock vs JCW fwiw

99421
 
  • Like
Reactions: Astroboy
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top