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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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lighter flywheel might speed up the idle more than slow it, less drag
 

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Discussion Starter · #224 ·
lighter flywheel might speed up the idle more than slow it, less drag
It's not the idle that's the problem. When the engine speed reduces the lighter flywheel has less stored energy, with the clutch pedal pressed down the revs drop quickly enough that the ECU doesn't catch the engine at idle speed and it dips below, sometimes enough to stall.

Leave the car standing idling and it is OK, it will not stall.
 

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It's not the idle that's the problem. When the engine speed reduces the lighter flywheel has less stored energy, with the clutch pedal pressed down the revs drop quickly enough that the ECU doesn't catch the engine at idle speed and it dips below, sometimes enough to stall.

Leave the car standing idling and it is OK, it will not stall.
Still makes me wonder if the bypass valve is not opening quickly enough? has it been cleaned, I know it’s working.
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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It doesn't hold it's revs at idle when hot. Start it up after it's stalled and it ticks over fine. Changed the throttle body but it has made no difference.
ok gotcha, read the above as a low idle more than the 'return to idle',
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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fwiw it's harder to resolve on the earlier software which has fewer tables to adjust, the 06 version has around 50% more not that all would be relevant to this issue, even then it takes fine tuning on the road from 1320 to help minimise it, not usually an issue for a PH2, what's your idle set to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #229 · (Edited)
I did some digging around today and unplugged sensors one by one and drove the car in between. Both MAP sensors were fine, which I expected. However my short term fuel trim was way out when everything was connected. I unplugged the pre cat lambda and bingo it ran and idled much better. I think I've found the culprit. New sensor ordered as well as a special socket to remove and fit.

Fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #231 · (Edited)
Car still being a pain.

Two new MAP sensors and injector seals (pain to get the injectors out) fitted. No change.

Just bought a OEM coil and new plugs.

I have put on the original intercooler as it is easier to take off and refit, plus you can get to the plugs and leads.

To top it off MOT is next week.
 

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maybe time for a leak test....
 

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Discussion Starter · #235 ·
I have to change my injector seals, and have a bigger intercooler too. Are the injectors generally hard to get out, or were you just unlucky?
They can be tight. Give them a wiggle back and forth and use WD40 to free them. Take your time and they will come out. Better if they come off still attached to the fuel rail, but you may have have to unclip them from the fuel rail so you can wiggle them more if needed.

You need to clean the manifold holes before refitting. They will take a good shove to get back in. Use some lubricant to help. I attached them to the full rail first. I had to tap them in gently with a soft rubber mallet.
 

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Thanks, I had looked and planned on taking them out with the rail, as it looks like 2 13mm bolts for that. Just need to time and effort to get the cooler off and do it now, as the seals are sat there waiting and my car is still a PITA to start first thing
 

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if you think they're leaking and affecting a cold start but not convinced, perhaps spray some brake cleaner around them to see it if makes a difference.... if a leak draws that in it'd soon fire up, very volatile stuff, like 'very'.
 
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