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Sorry fella missed your reply. I assume then that the lower the ET the more the wheel protrudes from the arch? Don't want to go down the full 50mm to be honest but the R98's are ET48.
Correct, with spacers you lower the effective ET.

The first pic is at the lowest setting (with spacers), the second one is at a height where spacers were no longer needed at the front.



 

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Discussion Starter #42
As mine is Chilli red all I can say is I'm in both love and awe! :love: Take it you've put spacers on the back too to pop the back wheels out to suite? From the photos the height difference is ever so subtle and possibly accentuated by the spacers. It is slightly had to tell but are you running a stud conversion too?
How do you boys go on with lacquer peel over there? Mine is at the stage where paint is a very real option, made more real by being shown some photos of the roof before it was wrapped in black vinyl ? Was a red/ red factory car which I've not seen to many of tbh, initially was gonna paint it red/ black but seeing the red/ white combo it does really suit the car (and heritage) (y)
My £2k 'bargain' is slowly turning into another money pit! Good job I'm single! ?
 

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I'd stick to plain discs personally and wouldn't use R53 fronts at all, the increased surface area of R56S front pads on the slightly larger discs gives a very different braking experience, fancy discs won't improve that really, if it's a road car I'd stick to BMW value line pads, ebay the sensor, ECP pagid or Brembo discs and even standard R56 hoses if you don't want the cost of braided. Very slightly longer pedal but offset by brake performance.

I also wouldn't bother with an intake, if you're not aiming for high power just a simple K&N element will serve for what the engine wants, or there are versions of the standard enclosed box.

I don't know about the R56S subframe stuff, you don't need that, just the trailing arms and a few bolts. I'ts a good time to move to R56S rear brakes with nicer calipers, just needing later cables or make the 53 ones fit which isn't my thing.

Tyres all I can say is 215/45r17. Should have been factory spec.

Red car red roof would look smart, black roof also because it's different, tbh if the paint is smart they all look good don't they, especially if they have sun protection glass imo. I'd have an all red one if I could find one how I'd want it, cheap and broken engine or gearbox with the right spec would be ideal haha
 
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Discussion Starter #44
Everything is here now ?‍♂ Calipers are having a lick of paint atm. So whats the score with the rear calipers then? And do the R56 cables fit like they were meant to be there or is it a bit of a bodge?
Yeh I was thinking red/ red which is why I asked the previous owner what was under the wrap the other day....fair play he was honest and decent enough to send me a couple of photos over...…. not gonna lie, it's not good! ?
 

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R56 cables fit like OEM in 56 calipers on a 53, OEM ones do anyway which have the metal clips into the body compared to Pagid which have plastic bushes with integral pop out clips (a minor point) and a thinner cable outer coating (a reasonable point imo). Compared to the 53 they have metal sliders instead of rubber which flex when braking, but also if you remove the rubber sliders you will typically find corrosion in the caliper that crushed the slide against the pin preventing the calipers from correctly adjusting, potentially mis diagnosed as a faulty caliper. The 56 calipers I think felt lighter, you can also get the 56JCW carriers and have 280mm rear discs if you were at some point considering really big fronts, you won't need them with stock or R56S fronts. Some might say the rear brakes do little and upgrades are not required, clearly they haven't done it ;O)
 
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Discussion Starter #48
R56 cables fit like OEM in 56 calipers on a 53, OEM ones do anyway which have the metal clips into the body compared to Pagid which have plastic bushes with integral pop out clips (a minor point) and a thinner cable outer coating (a reasonable point imo). Compared to the 53 they have metal sliders instead of rubber which flex when braking, but also if you remove the rubber sliders you will typically find corrosion in the caliper that crushed the slide against the pin preventing the calipers from correctly adjusting, potentially mis diagnosed as a faulty caliper. The 56 calipers I think felt lighter, you can also get the 56JCW carriers and have 280mm rear discs if you were at some point considering really big fronts, you won't need them with stock or R56S fronts. Some might say the rear brakes do little and upgrades are not required, clearly they haven't done it ;O)
Ahh, yes, I know the caliper designs you mean the R53 is akin to the ford setup where you find that alloy corrosion crushes the rubber 'slider' and effectively traps the sliding pin. Whereas the R56 are more akin to the VAG setup where the caliper is bolted via 2 sliders to the carrier.
So a pair of OE R56 brake cables need to be added to the list if I'm considering a rear axle swap (y) I say OE because I feel these have less stretch than aftermarket ones.
I'd agree with you on the brake front too. Look at old cars..... that's what the bias valve did..... reduce the pressure to the back brakes. Imo the ABS module takes on this function in modern cars, but say you go Brembo on the front with standard rear then track I feel you'd soon find out how much effort those backs put in! ?
 

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As mine is Chilli red all I can say is I'm in both love and awe! :love: Take it you've put spacers on the back too to pop the back wheels out to suite? From the photos the height difference is ever so subtle and possibly accentuated by the spacers. It is slightly had to tell but are you running a stud conversion too?
How do you boys go on with lacquer peel over there? Mine is at the stage where paint is a very real option, made more real by being shown some photos of the roof before it was wrapped in black vinyl ? Was a red/ red factory car which I've not seen to many of tbh, initially was gonna paint it red/ black but seeing the red/ white combo it does really suit the car (and heritage) (y)
My £2k 'bargain' is slowly turning into another money pit! Good job I'm single! ?
The pics are from about 7 years ago, doesn't look as nice anymore. :LOL: But thanks. And yeah, I had spacers all around for symmetry. Didn't have a stud conversion back then (did it later), just black bolts and weirdly shaped wheel centers.

Personally I'm a big fan of red with black roof, gives the car a meaner look. I have thought about having my roof and mirrors painted, but first I need to save up for having the bonnet and my new bumber painted and the rust spots fixed and the engine is going to need a rebuild at some point... :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #50
As I said B14's fitted and some pics. Not sure of volume of pics I can throw at one post so here goes. Standard fit R98's so ET48 with 205/45/17's that are 3 months/ rough 3k old. Fronts are what I would deem fully wound up so no thread showing at top of upper adjuster. Backs though are atm wound up from the bottom about 1" , might go up to 1"1/4 but when work reopens so I can gain access to the pit. Drive/ comfort? can't really tell they're there, just like standard ride possibly a little less crashy over the bumps. Not had a full alignment done yet, so rear camber will be way out, just set the front toe up to 30 minutes toe in for the time being as I want some roll centre adjusters to drop the bottom arms to near where they should be. One note it doesn't feel as nervous now at higher speeds as it did before I swapped the suspension, weather this was an alignment issue I'm unsure ??
So a couple of clearance pics I took also before and after.
20200424_133523.jpg
20200424_133505.jpg
20200424_133531.jpg
IMG_20200112_134729_150.jpg
20200422_180351.jpg
 

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Looking good, I like my B14s, has them on for about a month now, one of the adjusting rings is seized though as mine were 2nd hand but bilstein can supply a whole new slip over assembly but you have to order it from a dealer which if course are on shut down

I find the ride to be alright, not too trashy, more than acceptable for a daily use car

where did you plan to get the alignment done, I need mine doing too, I only ask as formula 1 in crewe took a look and said they couldn’t get the kit over the front wheels to do it and when I said I’d try APB in Shavington they said they have the same kit as them so may tell me the same, it looks like a trip to tweeks might be the order of the day but again, can’t do anything until after lockdown
 

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30 minutes toe in is a lot

I'd have that parallel on the road or if it was in at all then no more than like 2~3 minutes, total toe in no more than 6 ever on these. I have that 'out' usually.

just my2p
 
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Discussion Starter #53
Looking good, I like my B14s, has them on for about a month now, one of the adjusting rings is seized though as mine were 2nd hand but bilstein can supply a whole new slip over assembly but you have to order it from a dealer which if course are on shut down

I find the ride to be alright, not too trashy, more than acceptable for a daily use car

where did you plan to get the alignment done, I need mine doing too, I only ask as formula 1 in crewe took a look and said they couldn’t get the kit over the front wheels to do it and when I said I’d try APB in Shavington they said they have the same kit as them so may tell me the same, it looks like a trip to tweeks might be the order of the day but again, can’t do anything until after lockdown
Definitely acceptable for a daily, which was what I was after from the get go. (y)
When I'm back at work I'm gonna have a work with [email protected] in Cong, he's on Antrobus street so just round the corner and has a Hunter 4 wheel alignment set up. I would have asked the guy's at the Cong branch of where I used to work but my old boss can't see past his wallet so only provided each of the 3 'branded' branches with basic laser alignment (so toe in/out only) And my new boss has never gotten into the tyre game and there are more than enough tyre places in Cong to 'share the wealth' when it comes to wheel alignment for us.
Will let you know what happens when I'm finally allowed back to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
30 minutes toe in is a lot

I'd have that parallel on the road or if it was in at all then no more than like 2~3 minutes, total toe in no more than 6 ever on these. I have that 'out' usually.

just my2p
I am working off an old set of Dunlop gauges here! 🤣 So 50 min = 1/2 degree and I did measure it just after it'd come off a scissor ramp... all be it with a couple of runs in the workshop to settle things, so I'd say it's probably more like 15-20 minutes now. It's just initial so I don't wipe the insides of the tyres off.... it was toeing out 1 1/2 degrees after I'd fitted the suspension! 🙈 We used to run the Escort turbos 30 min toe in when I worked for Turbosystems back in the day, made them less nervous too, especially the bigger power ones.
Shame I never measured it before, it'd be interesting to know because before if you weighed anchor at 70 mph (for arguments sake :whistle:) it felt very nervous especially if you were on the markings in the centre of the road ready to turn right. Now, although I'm just running the JCW brakes in, it doesn't seem remotely there. 🤷‍♂️
What's your thoughts on bringing the back up by say another 1/4" and possibly (after I've had the rear camber done) popping on some wheel spacers on the rear? nothing overly drastic, don't want to rip the arches or tyres to bits, so maybe 5-7mm? I think the wheels/ tyres look a little lost now there is less air space between them and the arch.
 

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I will be taking mine to Blink motorsport in Winsford so not far from you. There web page says open but not sure if they are.
 

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50? .... 30 mins = .50deg

if the centre you take it to won't allow you to dictate target data or set the car outside manufacturers data, or only set it to what 'they' want etc I wouldn't use them personally. I expect if you know them they will but worth checking, assuming you want an input. I take all the cars to a centre that allows me to dictate target data, and will set the car to it. That way data outside manufacturer tolerance shows green/within spec. It does/can also make the initial read look different obviously referencing 'actual' with non standard data.

As for height, the Billie's are too low for my own preferences anyway because the springs are too soft, or short perhaps I should say for those wanting the compliance, but yes I'd bring the rear up on that a bit. Jim's has a seized collar yet where it happens to sit isn't bad. My preference would be to ditch 205's in favour of 215/45 which will set the wheel in the arch better filling the gap and obviously help performance as well as have a little more sidewall to 'give' dependent on tyre choice. As for spacers I only use them for collar clearance or brakes but they do help the look a little. I used 11 up front with stock rims until I went to 225/45 which fit the arch the best, actually giving a bit of an illusion that the car is set lower than it is, and they correct the over reading speedo a bit more than 215/45's, but with the 225/45's swapped the 11's to 16's and put the 11's on the back, but they will be changed to 6's as they pushed the tyre a bit too close to the outer trim rubbing it on 'B' roads with spare wheels, tools, and a passenger, or faster road use without. I had reduced my heights by 6mm at the coils prior but raised it again the same amount at the rear, it will go down again with the 6's on for review. If I don't like it they'll all go back up 6mm.

99570

215/45 vs 225/45
99571
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Same here Jim, never heard of them, but there is that many tuning houses in the UK now. 🤷‍♂️

Looks a really nice car that Sean, is that the test mule for all the stuff you sell and the Grey one is the track car? Think Chris will set it outside standard if I ask nice. :whistle: And yeh the old Dunlop gauges split each degree into tenths, which I was always taught that 1/10th= 10 minutes. So we may actually be talking about the same setting only with a different understanding.
 

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They are MX5 race specialist but also set up loads of track cars etc I've had all my cars done there from a few Clio's to Gt86. Use weight in the drivers seat to set up suspension etc etc
they better stock up on weights then if I go there!
 
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