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2003 cooper S 218bhp
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He probably started typing one of his legendary replies about 3 hours ago, still not finished :p

he tells me it handles well, set it up for everyday use, it’s a bit limited by a seized adjusting ring on the rear that thankfully is pretty much in the right place!

also I must have a couple of slow punctures as the tyre pressures were all over the shop, one only had 10psi in apparently, that combined with crappy winter tyres on the front and it understeers (which it did before lowering anyway)
 

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Discussion Starter #22
He probably started typing one of his legendary replies about 3 hours ago, still not finished :p

he tells me it handles well, set it up for everyday use, it’s a bit limited by a seized adjusting ring on the rear that thankfully is pretty much in the right place!

also I must have a couple of slow punctures as the tyre pressures were all over the shop, one only had 10psi in apparently, that combined with crappy winter tyres on the front and it understeers (which it did before lowering anyway)
????
 

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I've had B14's on my car since 2013. I bought them used here on MT, and had to have the front shocks rebuilt once due to knock (sliding bearings worn). They have started knocking again, but only when the weather is hot, or after a long hoon in the summer. Started like that the previous time too. I've covered about 120.000km with them so far, including plenty of track days, so they have seen some action. The ride is harsh, there's no other way to describe it. Perfect at high speeds and on the track tho. No need to worry about them bottoming out.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I've had B14's on my car since 2013. I bought them used here on MT, and had to have the front shocks rebuilt once due to knock (sliding bearings worn). They have started knocking again, but only when the weather is hot, or after a long hoon in the summer. Started like that the previous time too. I've covered about 120.000km with them so far, including plenty of track days, so they have seen some action. The ride is harsh, there's no other way to describe it. Perfect at high speeds and on the track tho. No need to worry about them bottoming out.
The ride is harsh/ crashy on a Cooper S anyways ? And according to realOEM mine was factory fitted with the sports settings + (?) Not sure how true this is and not sure if its a shock upgrade or spring upgrade either?
Think I might be asking to much out of my suspension in all fairness, comfy everyday, then when I wanna go for a hoon track esque performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
If you want the ultimate road set up, KW will build the V3's with straight springs and the top mounts. that way you get warranty, 80% clubsport and inox damper protection.

They will do the same with V2's as well and you can spec the spring rates.

For what its worth I've taken V2's off a car that had never been washed, had done three scottish winters and the dampers just wiped clean, now a bit of corrosion on them at all. Its worth noting that the springs will rust out as they are powder coated.
You seem to have a knowledge of the ST / KW range, 2 things I've noticed during a bit of 'looking into' 1) The XTA's.. A few people seem to have hacked their strut tops away to accommodate / adjust the camber plate / adjustment, is this necessary? I don't want ridiculous amounts of negative camber, I'm not some gay, Japanese, Honda owner!
2) I'm rather fond of my R98 alloys even if they do need a refurb. Looking on Demon Tweeks website it suggests that wheel spacers 'may' be required for the XTA's and 'will' be required for the V2's, any evidence / reason behind this?
 

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I think many coilovers need spacers on these due to the spring carriers ending up exactly where the widest part of the tyre is.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I think many coilovers need spacers on these due to the spring carriers ending up exactly where the widest part of the tyre is.
S**t!! I was hoping to get away without them, looks like it's gonna be a set of Bilstein B14's then. Waiting on Sean to reply about what Jim's motor is like on them.
 

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I’m running XTA’s and felt at an 8mm spacer minimum was needed with my R90’s and 205/45/17’s. I tried a 5mm spacer and only had about 2mm of clearance between the spring perch and sidewall. I ended up going with 12mm up front for even more clearance and to keep the hubcentric lip, and used the 5’s on the back. My other wheels are ET37 so spacers aren’t needed when I run those.

Without enlarging the hole in the strut tower you can’t get to some of the lock bolts on the top mounts after they’re installed. I don't plan on changing my camber often so I’m not worried about the lack of access to the top bolts and didn’t cut my towers. I figured it would just be like running fixed camber plates, except with the benefit of being able to set the camber to my preference during installation. I’ll just drop the strut enough for the studs to clear the tower to access the lock bolts if needed in the future.

Another thing to think about with ST’s are they only have a galvanized body and not the Inox coating of the KW’s so they might not last long in harsh conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I’m running XTA’s and felt at an 8mm spacer minimum was needed with my R90’s and 205/45/17’s. I tried a 5mm spacer and only had about 2mm of clearance between the spring perch and sidewall. I ended up going with 12mm up front for even more clearance and to keep the hubcentric lip, and used the 5’s on the back. My other wheels are ET37 so spacers aren’t needed when I run those.

Without enlarging the hole in the strut tower you can’t get to some of the lock bolts on the top mounts after they’re installed. I don't plan on changing my camber often so I’m not worried about the lack of access to the top bolts and didn’t cut my towers. I figured it would just be like running fixed camber plates, except with the benefit of being able to set the camber to my preference during installation. I’ll just drop the strut enough for the studs to clear the tower to access the lock bolts if needed in the future.

Another thing to think about with ST’s are they only have a galvanized body and not the Inox coating of the KW’s so they might not last long in harsh conditions.
Cheers Fella, answered a few more of the may Q & A's going round in my head. ?
 

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Lohen fit my XTAs and didn't need spaces, was on r98s at the time to with 205 tyres.

Tyres were close the the perches but the tyre doesn't flex at the top so I was happy enough and i doubt they would have sent me on my way of there was any chance of contact. Well, I hope not anyway!

I never had any issues and it stayed like that for a couple of month til I got my wheels on.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Lohen fit my XTAs and didn't need spaces, was on r98s at the time to with 205 tyres.

Tyres were close the the perches but the tyre doesn't flex at the top so I was happy enough and i doubt they would have sent me on my way of there was any chance of contact. Well, I hope not anyway!

I never had any issues and it stayed like that for a couple of month til I got my wheels on.
How far was it lowered by on the XTA's? And did it have the assistor spring fitted at the front?
 

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I used 11mm spacers on my kit to clear the perches, they gave around 5mm perhaps but with the better sized (imo) 215/45r17's which being semi slicks on mine are a squarer profile so closer to the perches. I wouldn't have a smaller gap as the carcass does distort to a degree on any tyre, but saying that I've seen 225/45's on stock rims with stock suspension with no evidence of any fouling despite little room especially at the rear inner. Carcass flex maybe less so on a run-flat of course. 11mm looked right and also on R112's were right to just clear the bigger brakes I use, so for me a perfect size spacer. At that time I had none on the rears but currently the 11's are there with 16 on the front due to 225/45's, I will drop the rears to 6mm as they were just rubbing on the outer when I dropped the car a touch more so have raised it again. Originally the car was set ~5mm lower than stock all round, I'm not a fan of slamming the cars or single perch kit really especially with designed drop being what it is on some, and really soft springs, but appreciate some people just want comfort stuff, personally I'd prefer it to come into its own when at a pace than lose composure which some stuff does, of course other factors come into play.
 
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Discussion Starter #34
I used 11mm spacers on my kit to clear the perches, they gave around 5mm perhaps but with the better sized (imo) 215/45r17's which being semi slicks on mine are a squarer profile so closer to the perches. I wouldn't have a smaller gap as the carcass does distort to a degree on any tyre, but saying that I've seen 225/45's on stock rims with stock suspension with no evidence of any fouling despite little room especially at the rear inner. Carcass flex maybe less so on a run-flat of course. 11mm looked right and also on R112's were right to just clear the bigger brakes I use, so for me a perfect size spacer. At that time I had none on the rears but currently the 11's are there with 16 on the front due to 225/45's, I will drop the rears to 6mm as they were just rubbing on the outer when I dropped the car a touch more so have raised it again. Originally the car was set ~5mm lower than stock all round, I'm not a fan of slamming the cars or single perch kit really especially with designed drop being what it is on some, and really soft springs, but appreciate some people just want comfort stuff, personally I'd prefer it to come into its own when at a pace than lose composure which some stuff does, of course other factors come into play.
Did you put spacers on Jim's wit the B14's? Because the photos you sent to him he's put up on here that doesn't look to bad a drop. Don't want it doubling up as a lawnmower like some but feel as standard they do look to high.
Might even pop work when the car is back from the autosparks and I've got my pulley and the paint is dry on my brakes ? and pull one side down then refit without the spring so I can get an idea where I wanna be..... actually see how low I need to go.
 

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How far was it lowered by on the XTA's? And did it have the assistor spring fitted at the front?
Couple of inch iirc....

I think I could get a finger between the perch and the tyre, so low enough to be a problem with a wider tyre....
 

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no spacers on Jims,

it's personal opinion all this stuff, these B14's won't go much higher at the front, the springs are a low enough rate that I can compress them several cm off the car by hand, personally I'd prefer kit I could perhaps choose to lower this much rather than have this as a minimum drop, too low for me but the car drives alright, no rubbing, no vibration, it's Jim's car and his first impression was really positive and he likes where it sits, it's a daily he doesn't want to do huge amounts to that he doesn't want looking so nice he worries about leaving it for work so how it is appears to be satisfactory. I do have a very small scope to raise it a touch up front but not really worth talking about. It isn't necessary for a good handling car imo being this low. How the car is now it drives quite well, I took it out again today a bit quicker and I can see why Jim is pleased overall, for some relatively mild changes the car does go very well, it would still with springs a kilo or two up if they were available. As it is some of the potential travel is consumed by the designed drop passively which isn't for me. Twin perch kit can achieve a height you want while retaining most of it. With some budget RCA's to bring in a bit of rear neg camber to no more than -1deg or an R56 trailing arm conversion to help it being adjustable, and some front top mounts to get -1.5 and a better rear ARB with parallel front toe and very minor rear toe in, less understeer which isn't just tyres would be a next step done, then better rubber, and R56S front brakes, for a budget sensible daily Jim would be happy I'm sure ;O)
 
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Discussion Starter #39
no spacers on Jims,

it's personal opinion all this stuff, these B14's won't go much higher at the front, the springs are a low enough rate that I can compress them several cm off the car by hand, personally I'd prefer kit I could perhaps choose to lower this much rather than have this as a minimum drop, too low for me but the car drives alright, no rubbing, no vibration, it's Jim's car and his first impression was really positive and he likes where it sits, it's a daily he doesn't want to do huge amounts to that he doesn't want looking so nice he worries about leaving it for work so how it is appears to be :unsure::unsure:W(y). I do have a very small scope to raise it a touch up front but not really worth talking about. It isn't necessary for a good handling car imo being this low. How the car is now it drives quite well, I took it out again today a bit quicker and I can see why Jim is pleased overall, for some relatively mild changes the car does go very well, it would still with springs a kilo or two up if they were available. As it is some of the potential travel is consumed by the designed drop passively which isn't for me. Twin perch kit can achieve a height you want while retaining most of it. With some budget RCA's to bring in a bit of rear neg camber to no more than -1deg or an R56 trailing arm conversion to help it being adjustable, and some front top mounts to get -1.5 and a better rear ARB with parallel front toe and very minor rear toe in, less understeer which isn't just tyres would be a next step done, then better rubber, and R56S front brakes, for a budget sensible daily Jim would be happy I'm sure ;O)
We will have, when fitted, JCW R53 Brembo drilled and grooved discs with HP2000 fronts and standard rears, full compliment of Hankook Evo 2's in 205/45/17 size. Engine wise atm ST injectors although I don't like their fit, so am waiting for some OE 380's to arrive, Airtec TMIC, see what you mean about the weight! Jesus they're heavy! A -15% KAVS coming (Not to keen on the guy's attitude with regard to possible failure/ slippage of the pulleys but I don't know about the back stories about what's been said previous but I like the idea of a four bolt design as apposed to the Alta's three bolt..... so I'm taking a chance) belt, tensioner assembly and idler pulley. Might ring Lohen up tomorrow to see if they have stock of the Alta induction kit? Give the bank account time to recover from there for a bit! ?
But as said previously I don't want a lawnmower, I want a daily that can give me the bigger grin factor than it does atm.
So you would say some adjustable top mounts to suite maybe? Any to recommend and any to stay away from? Not to keen on cutting into the top plates IF I can avoid it. Have looked into the R56 rear subframe/ axle swap..... on the face of it you get four gains for not much outlay, minimal time off road (get the new axle ready first!) , weight saving due to the arms material, don't have to outlay on adjustable control arms extra, anti corrosion protection on the subframe itself. Seems a win win.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
B14's needed spacers for max lows at the front with 215/45 on 7.5x17" ET45 wheels. 11mm spacers were enough to clear the perches with ease. With suitable wheels (ET under 40) and 205 wide tyres you probably won't need spacers.
Sorry fella missed your reply. I assume then that the lower the ET the more the wheel protrudes from the arch? Don't want to go down the full 50mm to be honest but the R98's are ET48.
 
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