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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My car is 12 years old now and when I was putting new handbrake cables on I noticed a lot of surface rust so I've stripped the back end for a bit of a refurb. It's all surface rust thankfully and it seems to be cleaning up ok. I've used a fairly basic little blast pot to get rid of the loose stuff and then slathered on some Deox C gel to try and kill the rust. As I was doing this I've noticed more bits that need cleaned up but I'm hoping I won't have to do this again for a while. I've had to buy a second hand bumper support bar and a few small brackets as the old ones had dissolved and I'll get it all galvanised before I bolt it back on. I'll see how it all looks tomorrow in the cold light of day...


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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The APs are looking a bit ropey after 2 years of harsh weather

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've got everything blasted clean and the rust inhibitor on. It's stuff called Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80. I hope it works!


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I've got everything blasted clean and the rust inhibitor on. It's stuff called Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80. I hope it works!
This is what I use under their primer. Really good stuff. POR15 and Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black also work really well...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is what I use under their primer. Really good stuff. POR15 and Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black also work really well...
What do you put over the top of it? I have some tins of xylene based single pack paint that I was planning to use but should I put on the etch primer first? I also have some other stuff from Bilt Hamber called Etch Weld primer...

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Looking good. I used Bilt Hamber products on the exhaust hangers on my 2013 R56 JCW.
There wasn't much rust on them, however, I didn't want to wait until it 'got hold' before I attempted to resolve the problem.
 

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Corroless CIO with the glass pack is what im using on the same spot on mine. Then Lanoguard on top of the other bits and bilt hambler in the cavities.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Corroless CIO with the glass pack is what im using on the same spot on mine. Then Lanoguard on top of the other bits and bilt hambler in the cavities.
Thanks! I've got the Bilt Hamber cavity wax so I'm planning to run everything full of that before it goes back together.


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What do you put over the top of it? I have some tins of xylene based single pack paint that I was planning to use but should I put on the etch primer first? I also have some other stuff from Bilt Hamber called Etch Weld primer...

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BH Electrox. You probably wouldn't even need a top coat in those areas
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
BH Electrox. You probably wouldn't even need a top coat in those areas
I've got some Galvafroid which is similar I think. We used to get 2 pack zinc chromate acid etch and that was really good but I think they've banned it now...

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That's the Galvafroid on and some bits and pieces back from being galvanised and primed. There isn't a hot dip galvanisers where I live so it's just plasma sprayed with molten zinc. It's a good second best option.


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've got a few more things done today. The seam sealer and stone chip is on and I've got a couple of coats of gloss on the subframe and brackets. I've also got stainless fasteners to replace all the non load bearing ones. I'll have to keep the high tensile bolts for all the suspension pieces etc.

I just need a few coats of gloss on the underside of the car and run everything full of cavity wax before I can start to bolt things back on again


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That's the shells in for the rear trailing arm front bushes. I'll have to paint the brackets again as the paint took a bit of a battering.

Those big bolts that go into the aluminium trailing arm were tough to get out. I'm surprised they didn't take the threads with them as I had to break out the 3/4 drive impact gun


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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I've been fairly underwhelmed with the APs corrosion resistance and longevity so I'm giving these a shot. Hopefully I'll see more than 2 years of of them...


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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I've put in some poly bushes at the front of the trailing arm while I was at. For anyone doing this who, like me, forgets where the bolts go. The ones for the front bush and the bottom of the shock look very similar but have slightly different thread lengths. The longer threaded ones go in the bottom of the shock. I had to take it apart and swap them it.


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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I think I'm in with half a chance of finishing the back end today. Just a final coat of underseal then heat shields, exhaust, brakes, arch liners and bumper. It's taking longer than I thought with all the cleaning, greasing and painting going on


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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
We're not going for concourse here. I've made big aluminium repair washers for the heat shields and Tiger sealed them in place. Got the brakes and the exhaust on and called it a day.


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