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Front Mount & 1320 Map

3K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  RYAN JCW 
#1 ·
So, as I embark on a government advised 12 week lockdown due to the C word that we have all heard enough of, Trackdays are now off the cards until around July ?

So is now the right time to arrange to have some changes made to the mini and fit.....

  • Airtec FMIC
  • 550’s
  • 1320 Map

Are the changes really going to make a big enough difference or is it dead money?

Currently running:
240 bhp (Lohen Dyno)
BVH
Shrick Cam
440’s
17% pulley
Airtec TMIC
Appropriate breathing and exhaust mods to support

Worth making the changes or keeping the cash for more trackdays when I’m allowed back out?

I can’t decide whether it’s just anticipated boredom and wanting something to look forward to or whether it’s worth the investment ?

Thoughts and opinions
 
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#4 ·
Funnily enough I’ve got a set of 550 sat here and a trip to 1320 on the cards when the lockdown ends, I think the biggest difference from my cars point of view will be a proper mapping as opposed to the ‘bluefin’ that’s on it now

the car is currently with carsorbikes having a 15% pulley and milltek fitted which I’m hoping will take me to around the same BHP figure as you have now once it’s mapped (currently 218)

Out of interest what is BVH?
 
#6 ·
Before you get disappointed with figures, you WILL lose power with the front mount on the dyno over a top mount.

My car has
Ported head (std valves)
550cc injectors
Catcam 469
Decat
JCW airbox
Airtec front mount
15% pulley
Link ECU

Mine made 200whp (232hp)

Dave's Mini has same spec but stock ECU and a JCW head. His made 197whp if I remember rightly.

Same setup with a top mount and you will be over 250hp with ease on the dyno.

However, I race mine and when you're up the ass of another car with no airflow IATs on the top mount range from 70-90⁰ (mine peaked at 90 before it blew the head after 3 laps kn someone's bumper).

I've reviewed the logs on my link ECU and from lap 3 onwards every race with a top mount it was running minimum 60⁰ and pulling a shit ton of timing to counter the temps and protect itself. The translates to alot of lost power.

Now with my top mount, I'm on average 30⁰ lower than I was with the top mount and the car doesnt pull timing so I have my stated power all the time.

What I would say is go for the GRS over the airtec front mount. It's better made and runs another 10⁰ cooler (same day, same temp, same track, same specs). Also if you have an issue with airtec they are beyond arrogant. It's never their issue and always the customer at fault.

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Facebook: Chequebook Racing
Insta; @chequebookracing
 
#9 ·
Good point on the front mount. Might not translate straight to a track day car tho.

My IAT's were above 70°C on the dyno with the stock top mount, and I never see that high temps on track days, so I know that I'm always getting at least 227whp. [emoji13]
My track temps were probably +40⁰ on average more than they dyno.

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Facebook: Chequebook Racing
Insta; @chequebookracing
 
#10 ·
the sprintex is crap, IATs are way off the charts. The airtec is nothing but a lava rock once it's hot. Too much mass sitting on top of an oven. You need heat dispersant and a lighter intercooler (mass) to recover quicker or just use methanol injection to cool it. People thinking you are going to have good IATs with a TMIC are crazy. Other option if no meth is used, get a water cooled intercooler with proper pump size, heat exchanger and external water tank for volume. Something you can put ice in to last during the race. None of this is cheap fixes but it will be better than the solution you have now. I can tell you from years of experience, getting the correct pump size, and all the components is a lot of trial and error. If done wrong it will be worse than what you have now. Dump the sprintex too and get a TVS900
 
#12 ·
Or just use a front mount

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Facebook: Chequebook Racing
Insta; @chequebookracing
still polishing a turd with the sprintex
your car shouldn't have blown the head gasket following the other car. They weren't pulling enough timing for IAT compensation and not adding enough corrective fuel to cool it down in the cylinders. You can't win if you don't even finish..
 
#14 ·
ok, so you had too much timing and it detonated itself to death.......got it
 
#16 ·
Fat controller, you basically just track your car don’t you?

In which case, go for a GRS Front mount and be done with it. [emoji106]
Save the money for more track days and brakes / tyres.

If your spending money on injectors don’t get 550s, go slightly bigger with 640s (I think) and use that. As it won’t suffer from the same high duty cycle 550s do on highly modded minis.

As for maps, go somewhere you can have alter it whenever you do another mod.
 
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