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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Let me start this with a link to my build “journal” started March 2011 —- http://www.minitorque.com/forum/f272/oldbrokenwinds-thumper-head-gt28rs-alta-stuff-18394/ It gets updated about every six months.

I started wanting “the baddest Mini in northern Nevada” and finished with possibly the baddest street-able R56 in the country. I gotta admit, the claim is for dyno numbers only (charts are in the journal), not practical use on the strip, track or street. Some of the mods are not compatible with each other, and would cause grief with many other drivers. It was built to be a “sleeper” —- all kinds of fun on the streets. It’s something I can get away with being located in northern NV —- rural, small town living (2 traffic lights), ½ hour from the nearest big city, and ¼ mile from U.S. 50, the loneliest hiway in the country.

Not sure which was the biggest problem, probably too high a CR (10.5:1) for the 30PSI boost limit. I hoped the CP Carrillo pistons and rods could handle it. They did for awhile —- I got over two years of 28 - 30 PSI max with no issues. However, this boost level was seldom used. Most of my driving is close to speed limits, and very little hard acceleration. With 360 WHP available, you don’t need a lot of gas pedal to get around. Plus, a long time ago, I did 3 days in L.A. county jail for “speed contest” —- not gonna happen again!

I have pics, but for some reason, the forum won't recognize the jpg format and won't let me upload them --- maybe because it's the U.S. and not U.K. version? They can be viewed on another forum --- NAM and eventually MA.

Both #2 cylinder wall and piston are damaged. Another block w/crank “is in the mail”. There was also aluminum “residue” on top of rod #2 —- apparently from the blown-out piston.

All 5 of the intake cam journals, cam, and caps are scored. Plus the cam has one of the two interlocking rings broken —- the rings that fit inside the vanos unit. The ring might be replaceable but the journals need to be machined. If machined, they wouldn’t fit the head without building up the 5 journals, then line-boring it to accept the machined cam. Not practical! No damage to the exhaust cam or its journals.

Did a partial tear-down on the Garrett and convinced myself that the bearings found in the oil pan came from the turbo. Turbo also has a slight amount of end-to-end shaft play, so it’s on the “replace” list, not repair. Have no clue how / why the bearing failed. It was performing nice up until the engine blew.

So, now to rebuild. All 4 rods are out for new bushings, #2 clean-up, then all 4 to be balanced. Looking at Schrick and Cat cams, Borg Warner EFR 6258 or 6758 turbo, 9.5:1CR and 77.5mm CP pistons (notched for a hi-lift cam), working with a local indy shop to machine the next block, and working with Thumper again for a replacement head.

I’m posting all this in the hopes that someone will learn from my mistakes, and not make the same ones. I purposely went with the 10.5:1CR pistons, even tho popular opinion was “that’s too high for 30PSI boost”. My “heyday” was before turbos were common, and lowering CR was unthinkable. An expensive lesson learned! And 5 years ago, when I got the Garrett, there were only a couple JCW hybrids available (that I could find) —- nowhere near the capability I wanted.
 
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I'm running 8,5:1 CR with 21 psi of boost from a BW EFR2658 which makes 346 whp, on a R53 engine. Forged.
So knowing you have AND a too high CR, AND 30 psi from a Old Turbo and then actually only make 360 whp is good to know so with a little lower CR and a newer more efficient turbo you should make more than 360 whp if you still plan on running 30 psi of boost. I personally wouldnt. My new setup will probably run 25 psi max, although I'll leave that to Thomas.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm running 8,5:1 CR with 21 psi of boost from a BW EFR2658 which makes 346 whp, on a R53 engine. Forged.
So knowing you have AND a too high CR, AND 30 psi from a Old Turbo and then actually only make 360 whp is good to know so with a little lower CR and a newer more efficient turbo you should make more than 360 whp if you still plan on running 30 psi of boost. I personally wouldnt. My new setup will probably run 25 psi max, although I'll leave that to Thomas.
I'm hoping you made a typo --- "BW EFR 2658", and you meant "BW EFR 6258". This is one of the turbos I've been considering and I'm really interested in how it performs in our MCS engines. Care to share with us your mod list? And, is Thomas your tuner? A Manic tune? I still have a day or two before I need to commit to a piston CR --- gotta decide on a cam set first, then see about relieving the pistons for valve clearance. I'll probably drop max boost setting to 25 - 28psi, depending on turbo capability. Definitely avoiding 30psi again.
 

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Gutted, was only reading your thread again yesterday after you posting the update. Are you going to go for similar power levels this time although with slightly less boost ?
Would like a bigger turbo for my JCW but , not sure where to start.
 

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I'm hoping you made a typo --- "BW EFR 2658", and you meant "BW EFR 6258". This is one of the turbos I've been considering and I'm really interested in how it performs in our MCS engines. Care to share with us your mod list? And, is Thomas your tuner? A Manic tune? I still have a day or two before I need to commit to a piston CR --- gotta decide on a cam set first, then see about relieving the pistons for valve clearance. I'll probably drop max boost setting to 25 - 28psi, depending on turbo capability. Definitely avoiding 30psi again.
Yeah, thats a type. Its a 6258, but on a R53 engine. Thomas is the tuner at 1320 ; they made my whole speclist work as it should ;)
There is a topic in the R53 section with the whole speclist.. DOnt want to ruin your topic and spread that all out here. Its quite long, lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Gutted, was only reading your thread again yesterday after you posting the update. Are you going to go for similar power levels this time although with slightly less boost ?
Would like a bigger turbo for my JCW but , not sure where to start.
Yes, some parts are being ordered, others are still in the selection process. Still targeting 30psi max boost, but will use the MBC to get there from a daily driver setting of about 25.

Yeah, thats a type. Its a 6258, but on a R53 engine. Thomas is the tuner at 1320 ; they made my whole speclist work as it should ;)
There is a topic in the R53 section with the whole speclist.. DOnt want to ruin your topic and spread that all out here. Its quite long, lol
It's not real obvious where your thread is located. Would you please provide a link?

Edit 26/08/16: Never mind, I found your build thread. Really impressive build info. Kinda left us hanging --- no performance results. Nobody's gonna think to look in this thread to see your numbers. Interesting how the block is designed, compared to the R56. Notice all the water jacket around my cylinder walls, where the R53 is reinforced. Betcha that's a contributing factor in my engine failure --- minimal support for the cylinders. Current plans are for a Cylinder Support System.
 

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Yes, some parts are being ordered, others are still in the selection process. Still targeting 30psi max boost, but will use the MBC to get there from a daily driver setting of about 25.
I would seriously consider an EBC. Really useful for manipulating the boost and will be kinder to your engine. Can set the boost to gradually come on as well as sorting out the dips shown in your power curve. Would also help you with launching the car at the pod the next time you are down there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It's back on the road! Still some more testing to do --- dyno wasn't connected to my ignition system so the RPM's are low. Max RPM limit has been set to 7.5K. Boost drops from MBC setting by about 5 - 6 PSI --- more dyno hook-up problems, or I max'd out the Garrett with my Cat Cams. I should have an answer in a couple days.

For those interested, I'm attaching my list of mods. On other forums, my signature has all of them too.
 

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Do you have any videos of the car running?
Will your car do better with race gas rather than water/meth? Please explain.
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry, no videos, yet. For map "C" I've been using about ½ tank of 91 octane plus a five gallon can of 100 octane. And, my tuner just had me replace the 1.0mm WMI jet with a 1.2mm jet, for more fuel at high RPM's --- the power curve had a little dip. So, yes the car does better with race gas, but only as described to me by the tuner --- I'm not taking too many extra chances. Besides, it does pretty good on map "B" with only 91 octane pump gas.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
UPDATE: Re-routed my MBC source from halfway between turbo outlet and FMIC inlet to the silicon elbow at the throttle body. Also installed JMTC's ICI pipe, replacing the hard plastic pipe at the passenger side wheel well --- where the map sensor is mounted. This forced me to relocate my external DV and re-connect it as a BOV --- no room to reconnect it as a DV. Anyhow, the latest dyno results are about the same as the ones from Las Vegas --- attached below. I learned quite a bit more about dyno's in general, like correction factors --- when in high heat and / or high elevation, the dyno computer calculates a sea-level equivalent and notes "WC" on the chart. I'm told this stands for "Weather Correction". These charts were run at 4500', mid 90's (F), and humidity in the teens. Another chart, not attached shows actual numbers --- map B was 292WHP and 290 ft lbs torque, while map C was 309 WHP and 296 ft lbs.

My attempt to fix a boost problem didn't work. The loss is still there, just less of a peak, so I have to go with my tuner's opinion that the turbo is max'd out. One Garrett chart only rates the GTX2860R at 300 - 400 HP. They must refer to BHP, not WHP, 'cause my 368 WHP converts to well over 400 BHP using this chart --- Dyno Confusion FINALLY Cleared Up If anyone has access to better dyno conversion info, please post it for me. So now I'm looking at bigger turbos. Gonna be awhile 'cause the current version has a new CHRA, and even tho it's maxed out, it's still pretty good on the streets. I'm planning on enjoying the ride for awhile, before the spouse and I negotiate for more improvements.

AlvaSpeed asked about videos --- I posted my last two dyno pulls on youtube --- https://www.youtube.com/profile?user=oldbrokenwind&view=videos Big cooling fan makes almost as much noise as the Mini. They're about the only videos of the Mini I have, except for the ThunderHill video, same location. It's my first attempt at running on a track, in 2012 before really big HP numbers, and not very interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Last Sept, I was pushing hard on a long gradual incline out in the middle of nowhere, and blew a #1 exhaust valve. Also lost the ground electrode on #1 plug. Those that can recognize the indications, tell me it was overheated and I have either a lean AFR or not enough WMI. Pretty sure the AFR is OK, so I added a WMI jet to each intake port and increased the single jet from 1.2 to a total of 2.0mm --- here's some pics of the changes. Note the homemade bracket supporting the MAF sensor and filter. Maybe someday I'll paint it. Also took out the long air tube from the front to the filter housing. Filter is now completely exposed to engine compartment heat. We'll see how air inlet temps respond.

Valves are now all SuperTech --- sodium filled inconel for ex and black nitrided SS for in. Should be able to handle a bit more heat now. Also found some heat range 9 plugs --- NGK R2556B-9/4962. Don't ask about the cost. Tried to get the same ones Thepenl tried but they're not available in USA. NGK rep told me about this one so I found a distributor. Similar pricing as Thepenl's version. First thing I noticed was it didn't like to idle at start-up --- took a minute or so to get happy. Tappets were a little noisy during first start-up, but they probably needed time to pump up. After a little break-in, idle smoothed out and tappets quieted down.

Been running for a couple months now --- really NICE, but have yet to really get on it --- FEAR! Also noticed the ICI pipe is an interference fit --- the built-in "dent", to clear the engine corner, is located in the wrong place. So I took my Dremel and cut away some of the Lock Bridge (as RealOEM calls it). Still a tight fit and needs more fine-tuning. Gonna shop around for a local aluminum welder, to fab a new section of the ICI pipe. Really disappointed with JMTC!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Haven't posted here in a LONG time. Long story short, not too long after the above post, the center crank bolt came loose. It was tightened using an old torque spec --- 50Nm + 100 deg. Bent all valves and added minor dents to all pistons. So after sitting almost another year and deciding what to do with it, the decision was to rebuild, again.

It's been running pretty strong for a few months now, and I'm getting ready for the next upgrade. Latest dyno shows 386WHP and 402 ft-lbs torque, but still has the boost drop of about 6 PSI. So the plan is to upgrade the turbo, probably Garrett's G25-660. This will mount on a tubular header, IF the one I'm looking at doesn't get bad-mouthed by my UK brothers. I've only found a couple sources for the tubular versions, and only one will fab it with a twin scroll T4 flange (my choice for the turbo interface) --- TRUST Performance and Motorsport - SAS Auto Customs. I want to place an order in a week or two, and get the process started. Be a fun winter project.

Im hoping someone out there has experience with or knowledge about this organization, and is willing to share it with us. Here's a pic from their website ---

Trust : SAS tubular manifold.jpg
 
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Haven't posted here in a LONG time. Long story short, not too long after the above post, the center crank bolt came loose. It was tightened using an old torque spec --- 50Nm + 100 deg. Bent all valves and added minor dents to all pistons. So after sitting almost another year and deciding what to do with it, the decision was to rebuild, again.

It's been running pretty strong for a few months now, and I'm getting ready for the next upgrade. Latest dyno shows 386WHP and 402 ft-lbs torque, but still has the boost drop of about 6 PSI. So the plan is to upgrade the turbo, probably Garrett's G25-660. This will mount on a tubular header, IF the one I'm looking at doesn't get bad-mouthed by my UK brothers. I've only found a couple sources for the tubular versions, and only one will fab it with a twin scroll T4 flange (my choice for the turbo interface) --- TRUST Performance and Motorsport - SAS Auto Customs. I want to place an order in a week or two, and get the process started. Be a fun winter project.

Im hoping someone out there has experience with or knowledge about this organization, and is willing to share it with us. Here's a pic from their website ---

View attachment 92637
Nice! Sounds good. There should be a centerbolt locking solution like the one for the s55.

Gesendet von meinem Redmi Note 4 mit Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nice! Sounds good. There should be a centerbolt locking solution like the one for the s55.

Gesendet von meinem Redmi Note 4 mit Tapatalk
This is what I'm using ---

crankbolt.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm planning to upgrade from the GTX2867R to the G25-660
I guess by the end of the year
You'll probably get yours done before before I do. Haven't seen or heard about any other -660's installed on an R56. Be sure and post performance results / improvements over the -2867.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
After a lot of searching and a nasty-gram to Garrett's customer service, I was able to locate my 2nd choice of the G25-660 options --- internally gated WG and V-band turbine inlet. 1st choice was a T4 inlet, but they apparently haven't been produced yet. Never did get a response from Garrett, they just forwarded my email to one of their distributors, so I made peace with them and placed an order. It arrived a couple days ago, so now I'm rounding up all the other "stuff" needed for an install. Had to order another down-pipe flange 'cause my current flange is a Garrett 5-bolt version. Hopefully, I can use the existing DP and just replace the flange. Won't know 'til I get the header mounted, and find out where the turbo ends up.

Header selection was my original choice, Kit 350 from Scara73 in Italy. They need 3 - 4 weeks to fab a unit with the V-band flange, so maybe by the end of Oct I'll have all the major stuff needed to make the switch. I'll wait 'til the turbo's mounted before I measure for oil and coolant plumbing, but that should be a local, off-the-shelf buy. Been reading about long-tube headers and their effect on turbos --- allowing exhaust gases to cool, which reduces turbo effectiveness. So, after I finish working the header inlet ports, I'll look around for a local source of ceramic coating. I could always fall back and use a thermal wrap, but that doesn't seem like an easy task for the contours of this header, and not nearly as effective, TBD.

Stay tuned for dyno results, maybe before Xmas.

Kit350_4.jpg
 
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Header / turbo upgrade has started! Received the turbo a few weeks ago, it's been taking up space on the shelf. Ordered mating turbine flanges and sent the inlet off to Scara73 for them to use on the header. Received the finished header yesterday, so now to grind out the four ports to match the oversized head ports. That's gonna take a few days --- I'm slow.

Found a local guy to do ceramic coating. He's a registered Cerakote dealer, so I have some faith in his choice of material and process. Just gonna do the outside surfaces, doing inside the tubes is overkill for my use. So, maybe in a couple more weeks I'll have a finished header to install. In the meantime I'm going to relocate my DV back to where I had it last --- just before the throttle body. This means adding a "T" to the ICI pipe --- more aluminum work I can't do myself --- frustrating! Then I gotta think about a new DP. Don't want to just change the flange 'cause I'm pretty sure the turbo outlet will be in a slightly different position, so length and bends will be different too.

Here's a couple pics of the header, before I start messing with it ---

20191109_120526.jpeg


20191109_120529.jpeg
 
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