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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As above, in the next few weeks this car will be available hopefully....

Countryman 2.0SD All4 LCI with just 58k and 2 owners on a 64 reg.

The car is White with black roof. It's not here yet, so other pics will follow in a week or so, just putting it here in case there is interest, the vehicle will be on Facebook Marketplace otherwise and my page ExclusiveWorkshops/LanSpeedMini

Spec of the car is: (I think some is missing from here, like the lounge leather trim and colour codes etc)

It's got a lot on it that a Countryman can have including factory luggage rack prep.

The LCI cars have the window switches on the doors, black lamp trims, minor trim revisions etc.

The colour scheme is great with no garish colours some of these had inside. Very popular cars, not the norm for MT but people have other cars and there are guests always on this site so it's here for those or anyone you know looking for a nice car.

I do have stuff to do to it as always, low mileage as it is, the car has an engine issue which I will fully repair with documented (photos) repair method be it a new timing chain if that's the issue or even another engine. Tbh I have no idea what the issue is, it doesn't start. I'm expecting the chain has jumped upon trying to start it which will mean next to no damage, all pictures will tell you the story, and also reassure that the car hasn't just been patched up, if it needs new valves no problem, if it needs a chain it will all be replaced with OEM parts including the oil jet and will have images of all repair work for the new owner to keep for their own file if required. You will not usually get this type of record anywhere.

The car is for sale with the complete spec it has, with a second remote key to be ordered and supplied, any due service work completed, any applicable software updates installed, with a new MOT, for £11,500.00

Always a realist, I will consider offers if very close, these are selling close to this price with substantially lower spec so this is a price to sell the car quickly. I will make every effort to make the purchase as straightforward as possible. Should you find an issue, lets discuss it, you'll find I will make it quite easy for you. Secure the car with a deposit, you can even come and see it apart and receive an explanation of the work being done.

The car will be available for absolutely any inspection, on stands, via diagnostics, or send your AA/RAC engineer here, whichever suits.

This is just over 6 years old and is a very nice car, it would have been around £30,000 new and is a lot of car for the money.

If you want it off run flats I can arrange that. If you want it performance remapped I can arrange that also.

Pics to follow ;O)


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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
As suspected, the timing chain has indeed failed. Not jumped, just the top chain at least snapped clean apart.

Whilst I have a lot more to look at, the good news is that the failure was after reversing off a drive and selecting 1st when the engine stopped. Often these will suffer damage to the camshaft bearing caps or the cam carrier itself due to the valves being vertical and getting punched at speed but on this car there is no damage apparent to the carrier assembly. The cams rotate freely while still undisturbed, clamped in their carrier which is convenient, we'll see more once the engine is out....

The car only had one 20k oil change interval which was the last one carried out only 4k ago, previously they were annual every 10k, so this kind of shows the interval is simply too long. There is a very slight amount of sludge forming at the top end, but it does rinse through immediately so this is caught in good time, it's recent formation which fits the last oil interval being longer, this will all come apart and get washed through anyway.

Obviously the motor is coming out as the chain on them is at the back.











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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well it's out....

the bay will get a rinse out ;O) Might as well....

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)

The chain had actually wrapped itself around the diesel injection pump almost three times. The result being it was firmly trapped between the sprocket and casing so the engine pretty much displayed the symptoms of seizure, of course it wasn't, just held.


Going back a few steps, getting the engine out was interesting.

BMW have stopped using underbody protection and lubricants apparently in the name of environmental protection which includes anti seizure coatings they say to driveshafts etc. That would explain why the OS shaft would not exit the transfer box from under the car in the space available. So I separated it at the hub with a view to bringing it out complete with the transfer box still attached.


I had thought about removing the gearbox first but the transfer box has to come off beforehand, this is to access the last gearbox bolt obscured by the transfer case. See where the screwdriver points.... that bolt!


I couldn't remove the transfer box because it wouldn't clear the OS shaft or transfer case outboard mounting bracket usually used for the intermediate shaft bearing location. This bracket needs removal. One can't remove this because the bolts for it are obscured by the OS shaft. They're even obscured after the OS shaft removal. One also has to remove the intermediate shaft which on the All4 is separate from the OS shaft, unlike the hatches etc.

So.... setting that scenario aside I also had to disconnect the prop-shaft. This was interesting. In my 40 years around cars or bikes this has to be about the most awkward thing to remove for what it was, talk about tight! It is held on by a 50mm seriously Loctited nut which doesn't appear to secure anything at all. Quite bizarre.... initially at least.




Ignore the multi-point nut, this is for pinion preload and can't be touched even to anchor the prop, the prop has to be locked at the centre U/J.


Some use a chain wrench but that's a bit misleading I think, and might work on a car that's had this prop nut reused perhaps and the Loctite degraded. On a virgin nut with factory Loctite in place you have no chance of holding the prop with such a method. I had to lie across the car with a 50mm spanner having my foot on it, my other foot steadying that so the spanner didn't buckle away, and while hanging on to the OSF strut and subframe had to then basically stand on the spanner really hard pushing one flat at a time against huge resistance of this extra strong Loctite until it finally came off. It made me question if I was turning the thing the right way which was a left hand thread, well it wasn't really. If you look at the nut you'd swear it was screwed onto the transfer box, which would make it a left hand thread as it has to be turned clockwise looking at the transfer box to remove. It's actually screwed onto the prop-shaft. The bar size required to lock the prop pictured.

Anyway it came off ;O)

Once the shaft is disconnected I was curious to see what it actually attaches to. The answer is nothing! All the nut actually does is slot into the multi point nut pictured above. Under the blue cover which just clips on, is a flat seal washer sitting in a recess at the base of the nut flats just above the base of the nut. The base is actually oval in shape and it appears to be this that when fully tightened sits with its widest part in the narrowest part of the multipoint nut, like a cross, then the flanged base of the nut is all that stops the telescopic front of the prop shaft from dislocating in service. The nut is so tight to prevent this changing position, that would appear to be all, arguably a bit overkill.... I'll add a pic or two of this later for clarity.

For engine removal the factory say to remove the AC condenser and also the front subframe, in fact the condenser has to come off just to remove the rad panel for any access they say. Well my AC plant isn't working so wanted to avoid that scenario if I could, and I had the car supported on the frame so that too if possible haha. Where the A/C pipes attach to the condenser I made a tactical cut to the rad panel making sure it was not compromised, just small enough to remove a 1" section or thereabouts that would allow the front panel to be slid out toward the OS of the car without drama, this worked. I will finish the cut area so it doesn't look sawn, it's a discreet removal and will only assist a future owner or repairer when they see it.

Returning to the above scenario of engine and box with transfer box complete with OS shaft removal it was interesting although possible. OS shaft out of the hub, AC compressor HP line detached from the engine and compressor released, the assembly could just be lowered for some clearance and the condenser guided down far enough. This HP line is largely rigid so great care is required, it does however have a shielded flexible section up at the bulkhead so does have some degree of 'give'.

A note for a future owner is that this pipe is held onto the OSR corner of the engine by a rubber sheathed band clamp, this obviously harbours moisture and rots the pipe below it. Fortunately my method of removal released the clamp rather than the clamp from the block, only to reveal this corrosion forming, so this will be cleaned and coated for preservation.

The engine had to have mounts removed, top OS bracket at least and both from the box then the unit rotated carefully to avoid the chassis legs and so the gearbox end could exit first, keeping it above the AC lines to the condenser and the condenser itself, then guide the connected shaft out rotating the engine a gradual 90deg to clear the car. All good ;O)

Once out, the shaft had access to be drifted out where it was plain to see the splines covered in light rust dust, easily cleaned but in a confined space it was enough to prove restrictive in situ.

Next the intermediate shaft. This needed drifting carefully out of the transfer case that it passes through into the transmission, its support bearing being an interference fit into the OS of the transfer case. Again also covered in a light rust dust which will be cleaned and the shafts greased with a heavy sticky grease I use, the bearing on the shaft will be lubricated and also coated in this heavy grease which should remain long term. This I have no doubt will be a blessing for any future repairs involving shaft removal. A shame BMW leave this to degrade in situ imo.

Once this was out I could release the intermediate shaft bracket at the rear of the motor and the transfer box be simply pulled away. Then the last bolt released for the box and the box easily lifted away.

You can see the rust in the gearbox where the transfer case connects, and at the transfer case where the intermediate shaft was.



There are two seals here for the shaft, like 'o' rings, and two in the housing like large driveshaft seals, I might renew them perhaps although probably will change the transfer box oil.


The bell housing will get cleaned out. Just normal clutch dust. Note the dry slightly corroding release bearing, quite typical.

The dual mass flywheel has significant play in the radial bearing making the flywheel surface rock really quite a bit so I'm renewing the flywheel, they do have some play anyway tbh but as this is such an intrusive job I'm going to do it for the next owner anyway, and whilst the clutch itself is in good shape actually, this will be renewed also. OEM install is Valeo for both fyi.
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Great work Sean, a very good read.

Interesting about the corrosion protection (lack of), imagine this would cause issues later down the line? What do BMW tout as the useful life of a car these days?

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
this is my slightly unorthodox cut in the rad panel, it'll smooth, but you can imagine the hassle it might save if evacuation of A/C can be avoided every time access is required perhaps.


here you can see the colour of the AC HP line which turns brown from the joint and below, also the difference in chassis leg colour. The sort of things most people don't give a second thought to if assuming road dirt etc. It's actually all due to the torsional vibration damper failing. Where the two halves become loose they rub and chirp or rattle and deposit rusty dust in the line of 'throw'. New one ordered today. This is an aftermarket part.


here you can see the ancillaries on the front which don't all need to come off but will make manoeuvring the unit easier and will allow some block cleaning. You can see the injection pump on the right. Its shaft passing through the casing which is where the dual row sprocket connecting the top and bottom chains is mounted, this has broken teeth and as said above is jammed completely. Access plug removed from the front and sprocket bolt, then you can see at the rear of the pump a vertical bracket supporting it, this has to come off, then a couple of bolts for the pump to block. To extract the sprocket there is a tool which BMW can't supply so an alternative is to drift the pump carefully from the sprocket instead. This was easy enough then the tension was released and the engine then easily rotated.


The alternator is mounted to a coolant housing which in turn is bolted to the block, and the water pump to the housing. I chose to remove the complete housing after alternator removal. The housing has what looks like a rubber seal but it appears to be sealant from looking up the parts. BMW say the gasket comes with the pump which I believe is wrong, if one looks up the pump the same 'tube' picture is next to the pump which is a Loctite 5970 sealant also used in areas of the R53 and R56.

The oil filter housing assembly has two gaskets, one between the plastic oil filter housing you can see to the cooler, then a base gasket to the block. To remove the housing gasket one has to remove the complete assembly and access two screws from the rear to extract the plastic cover from the front. Not cheap gaskets from BMW, but given the propensity for leakage on other models in the range at the heat exchanger/housing although smaller more fragile looking setups than here I thought it better to just change them anyway. Using factor parts for stuff so awkward to get to, considering the modest cost difference just has little value in truth. Anyway that's my choice, not really doing it for me anyway but the next owner.

another one of the shot TVD (torsional vibration damper)

and the front of the motor having a bit of a beige look due to the above, slight perhaps but this is why.


and the back, nice dry engine really, the black cap is covering where the crank lock tool goes,


the head bolts are tight on a D.... like 'really' tight,

flywheel end, significant play in this, as said before there is some anyway on these, and the R56S's, a new one will be here tomorrow, OEM fitted is Valeo and the same will be going on, just from factors.


note the cleanliness of the coolant ways under the heat exchanger gasket, OEM blue coolant still in this car.


you can see the chain jammed up in here, gone around the sprocket again....



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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
with the injection pump out I had to tease the chain away from the edge of the casing while rotating the crank slowly to start to free it, then it got smaller and came out in two sections, properly gnarled up, some bits of guide visible resting under it once the chain was freed,

with the chain off it was easy to see the broken teeth.







once the head was off I could see the lack of damage, although the pistons 1 and 4 were at the top where the engine stopped or at least was locked, I can only see really very slight witness marks which look to be a little more noticeable on 2 and 3 but these really aren't too alarming generally. Hard to see anything but it's there. We'll see if anything leaks past the valves, and I'll look at the seats after an initial re-lap when I can check the patterns.

before I disturbed them it initially looked like some kind of debris was on the exhaust side but this is just carbon off the crowns coming off, perhaps as a result of this slight contact on that side, the witness marks are more apparent on the inlet side as pictured. The carbon wiped off, actually brake cleaner was used to wash the tops before I touched anything, really it looks to be more marks in the carbon than anything else at this stage.





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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Just looking at parts list to date....

Adds up quickly. Currently at a retail parts value of £3,146.84

I did paste a list here but the site didn't like the code, I'll add a list some other way later having just wasted time trying it now.

Some stuff to follow, valves to check etc, possibility of any engineering costs, few other bits, I'll update it. Also service items if due will all be taken care of and reset.

I'll let you guess at the labour cost for this kind of work. (apples vs apples)

I can invoice this work out to whomever buys the car, and sell the vehicle itself on paper for the difference if for some reason that appeals but the car is £11,500.00 regardless. Suffice to say you are unlikely to be able to buy one of these this age, this spec and mileage/keepers plus have this type of work done whether considered maintenance or even as preventative and get to that number, not as a typical owner/customer at least.

There are things I could have done cheaper but I do things a bit differently to some, the repair has been done as if it were my own long term car, and I'm happy for it to become just that tbh. I bought it specifically for what it is and like it. I've always liked the CM S All4 and drove them in the Moroccan desert with BMW and the JCW X Raid team where they were just ace, along with going out in the X Raid car out there which was funny. So it is with that in mind when I might put a bit more effort in and not rush the cheapest job I can do, but choose to use OEM original parts and take my time, cleaning stuff as I go etc. I only opted for certain alternatives for the TVD, DMF, clutch, glow plugs, head gasket, and fluids bar coolant which is only ever OEM when I repair a Mini. Even a new main dealer remote key I might never need to use, I'd want one and expect you would too, so you get one ;O)

It's not perfect, there're a few stone chips, it's a very straight car although it has been a family car and needs a clean.

I'm not a Valet specialist and won't be dressing the car up with 'products', but it will be cleaned in and out.

There is a broken glove box hinge to swap, otherwise the roof I'll paint as there is some damage from clumsy bike rack installs or something, it happens. It will be very smart. I won't address the few wheel rim marks, that's for another owner if they can look after them, I find whenever I do wheels the buyers stuff them making it a total waste of time, effort, and money on my part, that said the wheels are nice, it's minor stuff. The value in this lies elsewhere anyway.

More oily details to follow, I'm pulling the pistons, manually cleaning and checking a few more things etc, also lifting the crankshaft, just to have sight of it out and hoping to find bearings in excellent order which will be reused most likely, it's only for a look and I have all the new OEM bolts anyway. Today I picked up a brand new timing cover from MINI as this one has minor damage which I still wouldn't want on my own car, so I'm not leaving it for you. The motor will go back together in a superior state, be assured, pics will show it ;O)

Deposit secures, don't miss it, there won't be another car in the UK having this work done just for you. Not where you get to 'see' everything like this, garages will tell you what you want to hear, this is showing you what you want to see.

See the value yet? ;O)

This isn't here just for MT by the way, as the link to here is elsewhere so guests can see also, if you're wondering ;O)

Remember, you can be involved, if you want the DPF deleting, or it remapped, I can do this for you. If you want to change something I'm not, make contact early and pay for what you want and I'll perhaps do it for you while apart.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Pistons out and crankshaft out. Washed off, nothing abrasive used other than a medium toothbrush😂, and just blown dry to be at this level of cleanliness. QR codes clearly visible, some minor carbon at the sides of the crown, and no contact damage apparent. Bearings all nice, bores all nice with honing pattern clearly unworn, crankshaft great. Block pretty clean, head surface nice. Generally this presents in excellent condition other than some exterior weathering.











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Pistons are QR stamped? o_O

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·




you can see above the only marks on the pistons are slight and limited to the exhaust vales of number 3







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Discussion Starter · #15 ·









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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)




these inlet ports are intentionally different, the left is the low rpm port, the right is high, the left looks choked but it's actually the casting mostly. They're all pretty carboned up especially by the guide so are getting a bit of a clean.


you can clearly see the swirl shape here which aids low rpm performance....


pretty fouled up really, 58k/6 years, imagine what other higher mile cars would be like?




this is actually right on the guide tip, you can see the guide shape in the carbon, and it's actually affecting four of the valves sealing. Exhaust valves have slight pitting on all seats also, all will be re-lapped anyway.


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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
haven't posted up progress with this while doing an N14 for someone that needed to go back together....





back to the derv....



Nice new timing cover, damage on the other one would have never been detectable but I knew it was there so....





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Discussion Starter · #19 ·


New Valeo DMF


With a new Valeo SACS clutch.... set as it should be



Note ^ the powdery rust around the transfer box take off, still to clean up, this won't be going back on dry like this



Head mid clean after return from having a broken glow plug removed cleanly....



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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
brief clip of the N14 initial run if interested....

Derv continued....










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