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Did you run them at your normal pressures ? Wonder if they want more or less PSI inside them ?

I found the NS 2R worked better for me around 31 psi but the current ZZR i'm using work better around 28psi. Same size tyre but different brand ?
 

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Discussion Starter #382
It’s one to check when I’m next back on track. I’ll try and remember to take the pyrometer with me to check the temps as I try some different pressures
 

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Discussion Starter #383
Quick question. The nav unit in my car is redundant. Is one of these plug and play to replace it?

EA8DB0CC-ABCD-4FA2-83F6-2A8B13CFABAA.jpeg

Looks like it measure oil temp and pressure which has to be more useful than a blank screen surely?
 

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everyone will tell you the dials are fake and work off some sort of algorithm but they are better than nothing. I specifically wanted them, they are indeed better than fuck all, and if the cynics ever had them they would realise they don't exactly work in unison but vary significantly independently, on the basis that they reflect oil temp not getting up until some 20 miles after the coolant that gauge is actually about right compared with a specific oil temp unit, and on track it gets pretty high which is still a fair gauge, we have coolers though so maybe not quite as hot as it says but it seems proportionate as a few laps go by. Or the pressure gradually dropping during warm up and reacting to throttle it's nice whether actual or not but a light would still come on so you're not losing anything, they are doing something so well worth having, if nothing else they look a shit load better, and you already have the others don't you so I would try it for sure. The haters can hate but imo they change the whole look of the dash, especially at night.

I want a set for my other car although it's up for sale it would sell quicker I'm certain.

the difficulty is in coding that a couple have tried and failed. I can code stuff and see if it takes if you want. I've never used my kit for it before the weekend actually but did code my DME on the grey car which was ok. Programming it though wasn't possible for the JCW map unfortunately.

it might work plug and play but you end up with other lights on I think.

you already have a DTC regarding your clocks which I was curious about, wondering they've been changed for something in the past, not much to lose if you want to try it.

perhaps consider getting some fused 3.9ohm 2 watt or similar watt resistors x6 and you can get rid of the SRS light which will clean the look up a bit?
 
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Discussion Starter #385
Thanks Sean, I might get one and try it then. I’ve read lots of truths and myths about them. One thing I’ve read is that they will display the mileage from the car the unit came from not mine. Is that true or an internet myth?

Trying to understand whether its worth trying to change then before I’m next at yours where coding can be attempted....
 

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Myth that one.

When the car is switched on you get one mileage reading (that I assumed to be in the chip on the instrument cluster) which changes after a few seconds to the correct mileage for the car.

Don't know how it will work in a Nav equipped car but in the standard car I got incorrect operation of several warning lights with it in, but all dials worked as did SOME warning lights.

I ended up changing back for MOT due to warning lights & have left mine original now.
 

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Discussion Starter #387
Myth that one.

When the car is switched on you get one mileage reading (that I assumed to be in the chip on the instrument cluster) which changes after a few seconds to the correct mileage for the car.

Don't know how it will work in a Nav equipped car but in the standard car I got incorrect operation of several warning lights with it in, but all dials worked as did SOME warning lights.

I ended up changing back for MOT due to warning lights & have left mine original now.
sound, think I’ll start trying to swap stuff around after mot in March then ??
 

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well we can see, note the mileage, when in CIP/coding the other day I saw an option for Kom2 instruments which I guess is this kind of stuff but like I say I haven't used it
 

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I hope you can get it to work, if so I will be beating a track to your door as I really don't like that standard set up, but without correct warning lights I just didn't feel comfortable.

When I tried to get it "coded" one place tried with an Autologic terminal & was unable to set the VIN number, so couldn't get past that.

He took the car somewhere else (don't know what he tried) where he had equipment that was apparently more forcible in trying to overwrite the VIN & that didn't work.

That guy recommended somewhere else who can re-program pretty much everything & he said that he could only do the later (56) stuff and that it would need the 52-pin surface mount chip in the central display to be swapped from one to the other & then it would be able to be coded normally by autologic, as he had done it himself several years before but wasn't willing to warrant the job as it is so difficult to do without blowing the chip.

Hence why I went back as I didn't see it as worth the risk/cost.

Having said all that, it could be different with the Nav equipped car as you already have the dual display with its warning lights, so are just adding the additional gauges which get their signals through the 'bus, so hopefully yours will be different.
 

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Discussion Starter #392
So despite saying I'm not spending any more money on the shit heap I appear to have accidentally spent a chunk of money whilst on lockdown 🤷‍♂️ :unsure: :ROFLMAO:

Firstly it was a nice (as it can be) send the car to have maintenance done that was planned and not foreced upon me by the fucker breaking down.... an alien concept in my earlier times with the shitbox and no doubt a testiment to time Sean has spent on it.

The car has been off to @CarsOrBikes again to have what is hopefully the last of the known maintenance items sorted and another mod added. Sean has done the following;

  • Replaced a perishing top coolant hose
  • Power steering fan
  • New gear cables
  • Oil Change
  • Coolant change
  • Fit some anchor points for lap straps (previous owner fitted them to brackers mountde to the seat runners which always bothered me)
  • New pads & fluid all round
As my much loved Pagid RS29 now seem to be discontinued in my fitment it means I'm trying some new pads.... Carbotech XP10's have gone in.... I will report back once I can get a few post lockdown trackdays in :)

Now the more fun less essential bits.

Something that's always been on the to do list has been changing the rear lines to stainless items so some Goodridge hoses were ordered... However they havent gone on as they are substantially shorter than the OEM ones so they are going back to Goodridge to find out why and to replace them





Now just like the LSD comes another "I wish I had done this earlier" moment....









This makes such a big difference. It now actually goes into gear with a nice click and doesnt feel like I'm rowing oars when doing so..... and most importantly with it sitting right next to the steering wheel feels like a race car :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #393
Geo check up and set today after the front had been apart @ carsorbikes.

There is no way on this planet the car ever left Lohen originally with -2.5° Camber as at the front as we (Sean 😂) moved the strut a good 2cm in the top mount to max them both out and only one was reading -2.5° to start.

Any hoooow. This is how it’s now set.



Now lockdown is starting to lift for us shielding I have Bedford SEN booked 8th August as a shake down for my 1st time on track with the Quaife and coolerworx before heading to the Nurburgring on the 14th 😎😎

Fingers crossed the shit heap maintains its recent reliability and Sean isn’t madly trying to bolt it back together in a matter of days 😂

One decision still to make is whether I go to Scotland in Mini or the m140i to do the NC500 in 2 weeks time 🤷‍♂️🤔
 

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I do need to do something with the redundant nav screen. What android device is it running off and have you got a guide on how to get it all connected?
That's an old Rooted Samsung Galaxy note, powered by USB, with a 3.5mm jack for Audio and connected to a diagnostics port bluetooth adaptor.

I mounted the phone using some foam pads. It was a bit crude but was certainly functional.

The only real challenge is keeping the phone powered up when you are using the car. I'd probably be tempted to put a power bank in there this time around (I'm eyeing up doing it with my R56 and an old Galaxy Note 4 I have lying around) for constant charging.
 

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Discussion Starter #397
I’ve missed doing this 😎😀



At Bedford checking the car still works before heading to the Nurburgring next weekend.

Initial musings are I don’t get on with the carbotech xp10s. They just don’t feel like they are going to stop the car, I’m having to brake earlier and use more engine breaking compared to the Pagids to get the car to stop.

And they are really noisy, especially on the 1st few laps.

God I’ve missed driving a car with an LSD being able to get on the power and scrabble you out of a corner instead of waiting for the 1 tyre fire to go out 😂
 

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I’ve run both and prefer 29’s because they have linear friction as they get hotter. XP10 can challenge your confidence because friction is progressive as they get hotter but they do work well, just way too dusty. Need to be a bit more aggressive on the pedal than RS29, probably sort your squeals out as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #399
So after my 1st outing since August 2019 I think 🤔 🤦‍♂️ 😱 I’ve decided I’ve improved and made the car worse with recent changes.

The bad.

The enforced change from Pagid RS29
The changes to the geo removing some rear toe.

Should always trust my gut really and not listen to the internet for advice. Previously the car felt like it pivoted on a centre axis and would allow you get the rear mobile through either lift off over steer or being overly aggressive with the steering input. Now it feels really safe, neutral and leaning towards understeer.

I will definitely be adding some increased rear toe out when I get the chance.

The good

The Coolerworx - What a difference this makes. 3rd and 4th make you feel like a touring car driver and I now actually have a 2nd gear on track rather than aimlessly fishing around for it and grabbing nothing 😂

The Quaife - stayed away from this expense for ages believing the car didn’t have enough torque or power to warrant one. I was simply wrong. Forgot how good an LSD is in a fwd car on track. It just hooks up and goes, can get on the power earlier than before.

If I get chance I’ll upload some vids, they might have to wait until after Germany 😀

I’ve run both and prefer 29’s because they have linear friction as they get hotter. XP10 can challenge your confidence because friction is progressive as they get hotter but they do work well, just way too dusty. Need to be a bit more aggressive on the pedal than RS29, probably sort your squeals out as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah you were right to a degree if you are more aggressive on the peddle they perform better.

The noise isn’t squealing it’s a grumbling of the pad scraping on the disc, they are really bad for it 1st lap on track and 1st few times you have to use the brake peddle after motorway miles.

Time will tell but I still think the RS29 is a better pad
 
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