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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is my first mini! I love it!!
r53 s model.
codes are
P0107
P0130
Rough idle, erratic and goes up to 1900.
Then below 1000.
tach will shut off after idling for a bit while a slight hesitation or slight backfire not loud bang just a sort of clearing of the throat.
when started it would lose power in normal lower speed driving. Through the neighborhood. When the dash geeks out I’m afraid to run it for longer than that so I shut it off. In doing so it won’t start or click. The lights come back on and the Speedo will bounce. So weird. I’m scarred to open up Pandora’s box! Please please help!!
yes I have ran bad gas dreaded 85.
never again!! Oil was changed regularly.
134000 miles. Clean car.
I do have a
P0500 code because the vehicle speed sensor got f*ed because of a bad wheel bearing that rubbed it raw and f*ed.
Other that that I don’t what to do!
because of the economic conditions I’m kinda broke but have to get her fixed. Please help! I don’t have money to chase things that won’t do any good. Thanks again
 

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2005 R53
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Check both MAP sensor connectors and make sure they are well connected - P0107 is a MAP code. It may be a MAP sensor fault but it could also be a vacuum issue causing a sensor to not read the right pressure, so it's worth checking you've not got any issues there either.

The other one is an O2 sensor code - not had any personal experience with that one but I'd be getting the MAP one sorted first, in case it's just a result of the other issues.

Also check for a bad earth somewhere - check the battery connections and any ground straps in the engine bay! If the started isn't even clicking and the dash is doing odd things, electrical/earth issue is most likely IMO.
 

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Definitely check battery/charging circuit.

As well as above check all of the inlet pipework/seals to check for un-metered air leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Check both MAP sensor connectors and make sure they are well connected - P0107 is a MAP code. It may be a MAP sensor fault but it could also be a vacuum issue causing a sensor to not read the right pressure, so it's worth checking you've not got any issues there either.

The other one is an O2 sensor code - not had any personal experience with that one but I'd be getting the MAP one sorted first, in case it's just a result of the other issues.

Also check for a bad earth somewhere - check the battery connections and any ground straps in the engine bay! If the started isn't even clicking and the dash is doing odd things, electrical/earth issue is most likely IMO.
Corrected one leak found crank case cap. Still ran terrible. Straps are good, unhooked and dremmeled them clean with wire brushes. Ran for a bit then slowly died off. Now she is dead in the water. Charging the battery now!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Definitely check battery/charging circuit.

As well as above check all of the inlet pipework/seals to check for un-metered air leaks.
Corrected one leak found crank case cap. Still ran terrible. Straps are good, unhooked and dremmeled them clean with wire brushes. Ran for a bit then slowly died off. Now she is dead in the water. Charging the battery now!
map sensors look fine I cleaned with sensor cleaner, let it dry then reinstalled. Still tits up! Ugh!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I truly thank you guys for all the help and support. Please keep it coming if ya know anything else to do
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Also there is a whine that seems to come from the engine without it started with key in “On” position.........
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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imo with MAP code and 02 code together my hunch would have me looking solely for air leaks at first because it's what it points to as well as your surging symptom....
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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and in another thread you write codes 1688 and 1107? 1688 imo points directly to air supply, slipping belt, failing vibration damper, large air leak, have you just had work done that coincides with the symptom?
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
and in another thread you write codes 1688 and 1107? 1688 imo points directly to air supply, slipping belt, failing vibration damper, large air leak, have you just had work done that coincides with the symptom?
I added a k&n filter and hose. They are tight and no leaks. Well it is an intake. But ya get it. I will check belt. Failing vibration dampener??
 

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2005 R53, 2005 R53 lightweight, 2008 R55S, 2012 R58FJCW, 2014 R60SD All4, 1996 Mini Cooper 35SE.
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1688 can also be a leak between the MAP sensors (e.g. intercooler boots), make sure they're very snug and the horns are sealing well, and the pipe from the bypass valve of the throttle body is sealed nicely too.

If you've done things around the intake filter, make sure the pipe from the PCV to the intake hasn't pulled any of the vac hoses out of where they're meant to be, as pulling that pipe off can cause those to get dislodged if not careful.

Unsure about the power steering.

Doesn't sound like your battery is very happy though, may be worth trying a known-good battery and see what happens. If nothing else check the voltage across the terminals when the car is running, and make sure it's >13V or the alternator isn't doing its job.
 

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MINIs can have all sorts of weird problems when the voltage gets low.

Check battery voltage with the car off, battery should be at least 12.3V (IIRC) and preferably 12.6V. Lower than this, the battery needs to be recharged or replaced.

With the car running, there should be 14.5V or so. I’d be concerned if it was 14.2V or lower.
 
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