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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Specifically STP Engine Flush. I got a bottle of this stuff for free a while back. Have you/would you use it on your car? Any opinions good or bad would be welcome
 

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Bugger
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25,177 Posts
I wouldn't put that crap anywhere near my car. I always flush with cheap but similar oil.
 

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I'd add it to a properly hot engine, and not drive it! Leave it for 15 mins and flush with flushing oil after that, I'd also waste a cheap filter, then go again with what you prefer. The only flush that is any good is Forte or in particular in my trade opinion is Pro Tec, I've experienced positive customer reviews for oil or fuel treatment and witnessed oil related benefits personally. Pro Tec is quite hard to get, I used to buy it in quantity in the Indy, the sister co. used the other, both only available originally directly to the trade not for counter resale. If you can't find it over the counter anywhere you can look up a garage near you subscribing to the good garage guide (or scheme?) which is actually run by Forte (handy coincidence and mandatory upsell of it) and see if staff will let you buy it. That used to be how it was not so long ago. What you have is worth using if free, I wouldn't go and buy it, some are alleged (by the other brands, notably Forte) to be abrasive which is why you must not drive the car, just keep it spinning up and down up to 2k for 15 minutes with no load and dump it, the second flush will clear it and it will be harmless. The claims were to do with repeated regular use of it in the same engine (worst case), if you've never used it, just go ahead, one application is going to be harmless imo ;O)
 

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I've used that STP stuff on several high mileage cars with varying results (none negative though). Check the instructions on the bottle and follow them (i.e. no load/driving). And as COB said above, use cheap oil afterwards for clearing out any leftovers and remaining gunk. It may come out surprisingly dirty.

Some ppl use same amount of diesel instead of STP. Cheaper and probably as effective.

Forte is the proper stuff. And priced as such, if you manage to buy it at all.
 

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Bugger
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25,177 Posts
I've used that STP stuff on several high mileage cars with varying results (none negative though). Check the instructions on the bottle and follow them (i.e. no load/driving). And as COB said above, use cheap oil afterwards for clearing out any leftovers and remaining gunk. It may come out surprisingly dirty.

Some ppl use same amount of diesel instead of STP. Cheaper and probably as effective.

Forte is the proper stuff. And priced as such, if you manage to buy it at all.
This stuff, its on Amazon...

 

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Registered
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219 Posts
Check out the SDS.

It is mostly Kero, with some dewaxed lubricating oils and a pinch of Zinc alkyl dithiophosphate (ZDDP) which is an anti wear compound.

Probably won't do much of anything used once. And in an engine that runs a decent synthetic oil with a modern antiwar and detergent additive package that is changed regularly probably won't do anything at all.

Got a dunger that gets oil changed once a decade if it needs it or not among your friends' cars?

James
 

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#R53orGTFO
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297 Posts
Last year I used a Liqumoly pro-line flush, after that put a new filter and some cheap oil. After a week and around 250 km, replaced the oil and filter with new ones. No negative effects until today.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This is the gear I've got. Like I say, it was a random freebie from Euro's. My oil normally gets changed twice a year (every couple of thousand miles if I'm honest) and under normal circumstances I wouldn't even consider a flush. I'm getting a tappet rattle on startup (only for a couple of seconds) which is why I was considering it
 

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good if it's on amazon, like one of the reviewers says they apparently have several types, the trade stuff we used when on Forte was a tin, as was Pro Tec more recently. It's easy to claim any of it is snake oil but nobody has to use it. It definitely is 'upsell' and not worth £19.95 plus vat.

Despite modern engine oils of high quality, tarnish in engines is a still a problem be it rings sticking slightly on these and others or eccentric arm issues, vanos related issues, tight cams, sticking lifters, tensioners, essentially intervals are too long but garages or owners also use the wrong oil and pretty frequently cars are run low on it while asking a lot of it and it only gets topped up and still left for the rest of the interval. Less of an issue probably with more frequent oil changes but that may only defer affects of it, not necessarily remove it so this stuff is of value probably, well some might be.

If you have lifter noise, I would add as I suggested, I can't tell 'you' to, but I can say that I would repeatedly turn the car off and on again during the entire 15 minutes, this will help (hopefully) break through any internal lifter tarnish. Historically I've used something else for this if it's been bad, in particular Honda PGMFI V6 Sterling, Vitesse, Legend, NSX type engines all successfully. There're always alternatives, this you have at no cost and if me, I'd use it as above.
 

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if in an ultrasonic bath of paraffin and not the sort of thing your Mrs uses for earrings then it would be an interesting trial
 

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I think it’s like anything mate, it needs to be determined on a case by case basis.

For example I would never use one on a newish, low mileage engine...who would?

But I have used them on higher mileage (~60k plus) or older engines. Just to help clear out any sludge, carbon etc.
As you never know how honest a service history is and how an old car has been cared for by every previous owner.

I only ever use them (generally wynns or stp) as per the guidelines, which is usually a fast idle or light drive for not a lot of time.

I just go straight back with a normal oil, no need to flush again. Mainly because it’s a waste of money for me.
But recently also because it’s not environmentally friendly dumping perfectly good oil is it. (Go Captain Planet! ).

I have never seen any issues with it bud. Even when sending the used oil off for oil sampling with millers.

There has never been anything note worthy in the reports to say the ones following a flush have been contaminated by it (just the usual items on an old car)
The only time it was obvious something was in the oil was when I used engine restore.
(That’s another subject but I product i do believe is worth it on old engines)


I do think a lot of the issues with this stuff came from “the old days”. When cars potential has leaks around the engine which were being blocked be sludge.

Then when using something like this, the sludge is cleared and low and behold you have a leak!

The same as the “synthetic oil will leak past the seals in an old car”. Plenty of the old boys in my local car club say this sort of bollocks (I’m 34 and apparently too young to really know anything )
Again they have detergents in them now to help keep things clean don’t they, especially if you buy the one for diesels and petrols)

If you have HLA issues mate, another alternative is to switch to some thinner running in mineral oil.
Run that hard for a while and then switch back to a good synthetic.

I’ve done this on my old mx5 engine (prior to the forged rebuild) when it had a sticking HLA. It worked

Apologies in advance for the mammoth post lads
 
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