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Does anyone know what vanos readings I should expect on my diagnostics?
I've got a low power and rough idle on my 2007 Cooper non-turbo. I'm using Delphi diagnotics and getting code 287D. When I bring up actual vanos values and specified vanos value, the actual exhaust vanos is continually adjusting whereas the actual intake vanos is steady and never moves. Is this correct? Please help. This problem is doing my head in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Christ. I hope it's not the valves. The N12 has both intake and an exhaust vanos, unlike the N14. Cheers.
 

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2006 R53
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Not the valves, the valve seats. They come loose when the head gets hot. If its the same problem the engine will be absolutely fine when cold, but will go 'off' once the engine gets up to operating temperature
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you. My idle seems to level off as it gets hotter so hopefully it's not the valve seats. Where are you located? Who fixed yours?
 

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Thank you. My idle seems to level off as it gets hotter so hopefully it's not the valve seats. Where are you located? Who fixed yours?
I'm up in Sunderland in north east England. It wasnt my car, it was someone who brought it to me. They ignored my advice (get the head checked/repaired) and the thing grenaded itself. She had a huge issue proving the issue with the warranty company but it got resolved eventually with them agreeing to fit a recon engine
 

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I'm up in Sunderland in north east England. It wasnt my car, it was someone who brought it to me. They ignored my advice (get the head checked/repaired) and the thing grenaded itself. She had a huge issue proving the issue with the warranty company but it got resolved eventually with them agreeing to fit a recon engine
Oh the joys of warranty companies! ?
Can I add to this?
Don't assume anything with these engines...…. good technology, poorly executed!
First of check the oil, this runs the Vanos and associated VVL system as well as obviously lubricating the engine, you may be rolling your eyes at this point but the amount of N12's I've seen with no engine oil and the owner wonders why it doesn't run right!
I'm assuming with Delphi diagnostic equipment your not shy with the spanners?
Next would be try to move your problem. Both vanos valves and cam sensors are interchangeable, so if there isn't a lack of oil, swap inlet for exhaust, clear the codes and see what happens. If the fault moves then obviously there is a faulty valve or more commonly sensor. (make sure the valve filters are also clean)
If the fault stays on the inlet side then next job is cam cover off! Hopefully your Delphi machine will have an activations function in the DME sub menu (may be titled valvetronic motor activation) This tests the VVL motor and rocker arm for free movement.
If that's all good then you need the chain locking set to check to see if the chain has stretched (common!) or if one of the chain guides is not breaking up (3 of..... also common)
Both a cold and hot compression check wouldn't go amiss either, could pick up underlying problems...…. like Astro's valve seat drop issue.(y)
 

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Thanks Deavilly76. Yeah, I've done all that good stuff with the solenoids and sensors and checked the timing and guide rails. The timing was bang on, and it should be as the chain is less than a year old. Also done oil pressure check and compression check, all good. I reset the adaptations again yesterday and took it for a blast on the motorway. This brought up 287D, 283D and 2845 which are all vanos faults so looks like vanos phasers or the cam O rings, I think, but I'm open to other ideas.
 

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Thanks Deavilly76. Yeah, I've done all that good stuff with the solenoids and sensors and checked the timing and guide rails. The timing was bang on, and it should be as the chain is less than a year old. Also done oil pressure check and compression check, all good. I reset the adaptations again yesterday and took it for a blast on the motorway. This brought up 287D, 283D and 2845 which are all vanos faults so looks like vanos phasers or the cam O rings, I think, but I'm open to other ideas.
Usual R56! ? Try to fix one thing.... throws something else at you! You had a MAF sensor fault code yet to go with the above? ? Sadly I've known chains stretch over a 12 month period, personally, that end is for genuine only parts! Your service items from whoever, but that end genuine only.
From your initial code 287d I'd of plumped for low engine oil and thus no pressure to advance the VVT. But now you have that, 283d(over advanced exhaust cam) and 2845 (exhaust cam restricted movement) , this is a long shot and something rarely heard about but pop the vac pump off the exhaust cam and see if it spins nice and free, if it isn't it needs replacing anyway as these can seize and snap the cam pulley bolt (read grenadeing, aka engine shitting itself)
I know this is the N12 but the N18 is very intolerant to the cam timing being minutely out...…. talking 1 degree! and MUST be set using an inclinometer, might just need a 'tweek' ? now that the chain has settled.
Also a long shot, but worth it to make sure is to try and get a wiring diagram and do a pin out on the VVT actuator valves, cam sensors, VVL motor and VVL potentiometer just to make sure the wiring is good back to the DME.
Has Delphi got a 'live' activation for the VVT valves? So you can see live data while it runs it's test? Is this something you've bought with known problems or have you had it a while and this has happened?
You do need to explore every other possibility before going and opening the parts cannon at it and spending circa £800? on a pair of variators, even if you get to the point of 'biting the bullet' then strip it first to make sure the 'O' rings haven't been pinched or mis aligned during the fitting of the previous chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've already checked the vac pump and it feels and looks fine. I've had the car for a year. It ran perfectly for 2000 miles after the chain replacement and just started acting up about a month ago. I've checked the timing with my Laser tool and it's bang on.
 

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This is why I own an R53! ? Although I had a budget I also had extra that could if the 'ideal' car came along I could add to it. Also, being in the trade, I'd come across so many R56's (usually Coopers or Ones) that were Female...…. read moody and temperamental!! ?
From memory at idle one cam sits at 100~120 degrees, the other some where between 20~60 degrees. These figures came from Snap on diagnostic equipment so I'm not sure if they would directly correspond to your Delphi machine? For reference (cooper/one only) MAF/MAP sits at aprox 450 mbar and no matter what you do with the throttle doesn't seem to move much?
Wish I'd got an R56 Cooper S to go out to so I could give you live data readings off it to see if they correspond to yours.
Did you clear all adaptions before trying to re adapt the cams? Just thinking that you may have re adapted the cams but due to another, existing set parameter being now being 'out' and falsely read by the DME it is assuming the cams are out.
Your cold compression figures would be interesting to see.
 

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Now, you're the 2nd person to mention re-adapting the cams and I don't know what it is. I used my mate's Autel Maxidas DS808 diagnistic tool to reset the vanos adaptations but I didn't see any option to re-adapt. I thought the ECU did this itself as you drove, after resetting? Is that not the case? Could not re-adapting be my issue? How do I do this? My Delphi software isn't a legit copy and I don't see any vanos adaption reset or re-adaption?
 

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I'm not familiar with the Autel platform, or Delphi to be fair, but I can imagine that a £400~£600 machine may not do the reset functions you may need properly. Same may apply for the Delphi if it is a Ebay special for your laptop to be fair.
I believe there is quite a lot you can re-adapt with those engines, basically a self learn feature built within the DME, so if you change a Lambda sensor it'll need adapting in because the current stored values are for the old sensor. Same with the VVL motor, if that dies the new unit will need adapting in so the DME knows where the limits are and what current draw to typically expect.
As for diagnostic machines that are capable...…. Your high end Snap on, so Solus Pro, Verus Pro may do most resets/ adaptions. As you can imagine the Bosch KTS range are capable being one of the biggest suppliers to the motor industry and also Autologic are big in the aftermarket, apart from initial purchase price and licences I've heard nothing bad about them and their back up team are apparently amazing.
No offence meant to yourself but it maybe that time to take it to a dedicated Auto Electricians with the right gear and will guide you through what's wrong. As I intimated on a previous reply, spending say £100 on a good diagnosis now is better than firing parts at it until a) you inadvertently fix it b) you get fed up and sell it as a project.
Information you pass to us guys is all well and good but we are at best taking an educated guess based on previous experience and at worst sending you in the wrong direction to where you want to be looking. We don't have the luxury of the car in front of us either.
 
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