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Discussion Starter #241
subframe.jpg



Had good fun this weekend - replaced the following:

Front arm rear bushes
Inner ball joints
Arms
Track and tie rods - still waiting on a small part for these as it didn't come with new ones

Outer ball joints still to do as they are stuck solid, need some bigger tools and fire I think

Cleaned up the subframe as it was a bit of a mess. Ideally could have done with either replacing it with a refurbished one or getting this one sent off and done properly.

Too impatient for that though. May do it in the future haha

In for alignment once the outer's are sorted out.

Looking forward to having it all sorted though, driver side rear bush was shot and both outer's are a bit worse for wear
 

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Discussion Starter #242
r56arms.jpg

Managed to fit the R56 arms at the weekend.

Not too bad a job really...the guide I had looked at beforehand said the 56 sensors worked...they didn't. The old ones came out the 53 arms easy enough though so solved that.

I kept my 53 hubs and calipers. Also drop links so had to modify the mount on the arm slightly.

As with pretty much any job, I now have a long list of other stuff which needs to be done. The rear subframe is in a sorry state. Going to pick up a 2nd hand one and get it all cleaned up.

The upper Control Arms are similar so will be replacing them.

Getting full alignment done tomorrow, was supposed to be done over the weekend but the first place cancelled and then 2nd place said it was too low :-(
 

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Discussion Starter #243
FB_IMG_1569096635991 (002).jpg

Alignment was sorted out thanks to a local specialist. Feels nice and tight on the front end now after replacing all the bushes and joints...although not as tight as it could be: see below

Only issue I had was the front ARB was knackered where the bushes mount - this had torn them up and was the probably cause of knocking I had. I needed the car back on the road so just rebuilt with no ARB in place.

I'd read about people running no ARB or disconnected...I definitely prefer it with one its a bit too soft up front without it. I was going to go with the Mini One smaller version but just sticking with standard.

Bit of a pain as the subframe needs to be dropped again to fit the replacement but I've done it once now so 2nd time will be easy.

Have replaced the 15% pulley with a 17% one now - feels a bit better from lower revs which is what I was after.

Just waiting on my AFR gauge to be fitted then going with the 550 injectors and remap. Tempted to switch out the Newman PH2 cam for the Catcam 469 too
 

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perhaps also consider trying a PH3/4 in it, you might find it interesting ;O)
 

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Discussion Starter #247
Finally got hold of Scorpion Manifold, good job for the weekend, will be probably the 4th time I've changed manifolds now. Hoping a friend can knock up a "tom cat" to use with it

Also picked up a very cheap set of 17" TD1.2's with the intention of swapping to them due to Big Brake Kit. Test fitted them and not that keen though so maybes back to the drawing board with that one
 

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Discussion Starter #249
Seems to be running well at the minute, will be booking into 1320 sometime in the near future to get it properly mapped - bit of a trek but I'm sure it will be worth it. Still deciding on if I should switch out to the newman 3/4 or catcam469.

Not much else done recently - picked up some cheap 17" TD 1.2's - think I may end up getting them refurbed and colour changed as being black they just disappear in the arches.

Also replaced the GTT rear show bar for the upper C pillar one from JP cages - from where it fits it seems like it will definitely be doing more than the GTT one but who knows



98186
 

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from what cam?

Fwiw, three cams that engine spec dependant are all 'similar', although I haven't used the PH2 personally, having just gone by other people moving from it to another but it does appear to be a pretty strong cam,

My observations for the three are supported by a dyno overlay I can't attach (PDF), on the same spec engine bar a 4:2.1 install, and rpm limits determined by valve train, with both changes after the EW02.

So: EW02 @ 7.2k, 1302469 @ 7.6k, PH3/4 @ 8.1k, 230, 233, 234whp, 180,183,184wtq

My EW02: fast road/rally, idle 900, smooth, can stall, rhythmic hunting, identical plot to the 469 to 4.6k, ~2-3hp less HP across upper midrange from 4.9k to 6.5k ([email protected]) and TQ 2-3lbs from 4.7 to 6.8k, from here it makes more and the curve continues up.

Catcam 1302469: a sport cam in the Catcam catalogue, slightly scruffier idle, needs 1krpm, can stall or bog down with slightly less rhythmic hunting, stronger upper mid range 5-6.5 with identical curve to the EW02 @ 6.6-6.8k and starts to level slightly after ([email protected] & -1tq), slightly worse fuel consumption ~2.

Newman PH3/4: fast road/comp in the Newman catalogue, needs 1krpm, smooth, no stalling, makes all the power but later, unless on a (EX+IN) BVH it can be restricted which I think explains the delivery of power later, strong low down, with 10lbs and 9hp more under 3k (worth thinking about real world driving there), plus ~4-6mpg better in said driving over the 469 on my mule. This cam was run up after dyno relocation, known to read a little lower.

The EW02 might recover more over the 469 using the same tested rpm, I believe the manifold has already narrowed the margin now the cam is refitted, and the run to the top I hope to do soon will hopefully evidence it is stronger.

There will be an EW03 to be tested ;O)
 
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Discussion Starter #251
It's on the PH2 at the minute. Thanks for the comprehensive info. It may not be worth changing cam out at this point...If I decide to go with a BVH in the future then that would probably be the time to think about doing it.
 

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what overall spec have you currently?
do you know what it makes?
 

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Discussion Starter #253
Decided to try something a bit different - turned out ok I think. Probably won't be to everyone's taste and yes, I have taken steps to avoid water getting into where it shouldn't.


98505


You can see in the above picture how faded the old alcantara dash cover was so I replaced that too. Much better

98506


I have some more serious issues I should really be dealing with, mainly CV boots and leaking coilover...will be sorted in due course
 

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That looks good Andy, nice work. How was the fitment on the curved bonnet?

Is it a 6ft job or a good fitment, I assume they are Range Rover ones of some sort?
 

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Discussion Starter #255
Yeah the fitment is not great....definitely a 6ft+ job at the minute but I am still fettling them a bit. Problem is, as it gets quite hot it softens the bond and as they are stuck down under tension it just lifts up the corners closest to the washer jets.

If I can't get them how I want them will just be getting a replacement bonnet and going back to standard.

It was an idea I had in my head for a while and decided to give it a try.

Yeah they are Range Rover sport side vents
 

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Interesting. I’ve seen it done with the supercharged jag vents but not from a Rover.
 

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Discussion Starter #258
Interesting. I’ve seen it done with the supercharged jag vents but not from a Rover.
Yeah seen a lot do the jag ones, wanted to try something different.
May end up just back to standard bonnet though as think they are going to have to be riveted to stay down. Going to try some black rivets see how they look... If it looks crap they'll be binned off

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 

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if there's a vertical part/rim where they go through the bonnet are you able to cut slots in it to introduce some flex for the top? Not something I've ever looked at, just a thought
 

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Discussion Starter #260
if there's a vertical part/rim where they go through the bonnet are you able to cut slots in it to introduce some flex for the top? Not something I've ever looked at, just a thought
Yeah that's probably what needs to be done. I did manage to get them shaped a bit better just with the heat gun but obviously it wasn't enough... It was more just the lip than the whole body.


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