MiniTorque.com banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello you guys.
I am trying to find the best possible coilover for my R56.
Mini will be aprox 280-300ps and would be for fast road use and track use...Not more than 10 track days per year and its not going to be a daily car i will drive it only for fun as it will be as a second car.
There is no budget..if there is reason to spend much but im not going to give more than 3-3.5k for coilovers.I id rather having something overkill than having something with bad quality or luck to adjust.
OFC i will add sontrol arm/sway bar etc etc.
I already know that setup is equal with the results you have on handling but first thing in order to have good setup is that the coilovers will be good enough to provide you those adjustments .

Thank you very much.!

Bilstein B16/kw competiton 2/3/4way,Ohlins,AST im trying to find the sweet-perfect choose i dont mind which brand will i choose. Any suggestion is accepted
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,267 Posts
If there is no budget then I’d personally be going for AST5300s. But the price would be difficult to justify!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
This must be a pretty good coilover..

If there is no budget then I’d personally be going for AST5300s. But the price would be difficult to justify!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I said i got "no budget" but im not going to spend more than 3-3500euro for coils..
This suspension cost about the double as i can see..?6k?
 

·
MiniTorqueGoesFinland
Joined
·
3,387 Posts
I'd say Öhlins with Vorshlag top mounts, a bigger rear bar, rear control arms, poly bushed front wishbones and adjustable drop links all round. That should set you back around 3.5k with installation and give you plenty of adjustability for road and track.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I'd say Öhlins with Vorshlag top mounts, a bigger rear bar, rear control arms, poly bushed front wishbones and adjustable drop links all round. That should set you back around 3.5k with installation and give you plenty of adjustability for road and track.
Firstly Thank you very much for your help/reply.
Secondly... Can you justify your choice?I dont want to argue with you say why not this etc etc i jsut want to understand and persuade me. why ohlins and not something else?
Actually the 3-3500k is only the top budget for suspension sway bar control arms poly bushes will be an extra.
What do you mean about "bigger rear bar?" what bar? u mean control arms?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Keep in mind that ohlins is 1 way adjustable not 2 or 3...And i am trying to find price for the ttx 36 (2 way adjustable ohlins) but i cant even find a price for it...But i dont think this would be under 5k and that too much for a suspension for road+track car...If it was just a track car i might think about it but 5k is a waste of money thats why i said i dont have a budget lets say over 1000-1500 but i got 3-3500.
Do you believe ohlins is better than 2way kw3? I see than many say that ohlins might be better in build quality etc etc but it is too soft for track use.

Thank you
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,082 Posts
YCW

sort your wheels first if changing offsets, sort your rear bar too which basically (imo) should be the biggest bar you can find, decide if keeping the front bar, which if I were finding the biggest rear would possibly mean none but your car not mine, then fit YCW's, upgrade to Reference from Aeris, which will get you a few nice additions, and you're away. You can upgrade to higher spec now or at any time in the future. The only coilovers to come with Swift springs at this price point, Aeris £1440, Reference £2208, built to order, can be built to suit a known vehicle weight also, will have dyno'd valving, built in the UK,

YCW Suspension - Over-Engineered for Performance, Comfort & Safety
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
Keep in mind that ohlins is 1 way adjustable not 2 or 3...And i am trying to find price for the ttx 36 (2 way adjustable ohlins) but i cant even find a price for it...But i dont think this would be under 5k and that too much for a suspension for road+track car...If it was just a track car i might think about it but 5k is a waste of money thats why i said i dont have a budget lets say over 1000-1500 but i got 3-3500.
Do you believe ohlins is better than 2way kw3? I see than many say that ohlins might be better in build quality etc etc but it is too soft for track use.

Thank you
I don't know about that, but I do know the (normal) price for a set of Öhlins Road and Track for the first gen Minis is 1900€ in Germany. I'll just put something a friend and Öhlins mechanic told me when I asked him about a price for one of theirs.

"
Sorry man, Its good stuff. Depends on hgow long you want to keep the car...
because used you can sell the suspension for 1000 easy
and you have 2 year warranty
and the dampers are serviceable... very servicable
and for sure you get to have 2 more months out of your tires with a good setup
if I was you... I would buy bilstein B14 or B16
ST is going to be a problem for you
shitty metal, shitty plastic, and the engineering of the function is also not 100%

honestly dude, you need the good lengths and the good springs and valving
bilstein or ohlins are ok for this
ast is ok
"
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,082 Posts
bidsy26 on here had some advertised for £1500 iirc
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I think from some friends of mine that clubsport would be to stiff-hard for road use and its an option only for track.You feel the bumb so hard or it pops the car up and you lose the wheel so i would say kw3 might be a better choice..NOT SURE.
If i find an ohlins 2 way suspension within 3500 i would go for it..If not i think the only choices i have are B16,KW3,DFV...All those are 2-2500 so i think if i climb 1 more step i wont find something with 3500 but 5-8000 and i am not willing to spend 6k on a coilover.!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,267 Posts
KW Clubsports are barely stiff enough for track work. I have them and they are really fine for the level of talent I have but if I had to buy them again I’d get ASTs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
MIN-Tily Challenged
Joined
·
7,398 Posts
You will struggle to find anyone who has spent any serious time in a r56 mini,
with 3 different 3k+ suspension options covering both road and track, and can give a fair assessment of each on its on merits without being influenced by other aspects of the car/road/track/tyres & tune, they also experienced at the same time
I'm not even sure you know what your looking for ? (Or have I missed it) I get the 10 track days, but also every weekend or just Sunday, or just sunny Sundays
Is this a 50/50 split of road & track ? More or less of each? One will always be a compromise to the other

Excuse my ignorance where is the YEAH state ? What are the roads like ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
You will struggle to find anyone who has spent any serious time in a r56 mini,
with 3 different 3k+ suspension options covering both road and track, and can give a fair assessment of each on its on merits without being influenced by other aspects of the car/road/track/tyres & tune, they also experienced at the same time
I'm not even sure you know what your looking for ? (Or have I missed it) I get the 10 track days, but also every weekend or just Sunday, or just sunny Sundays
Is this a 50/50 split of road & track ? More or less of each? One will always be a compromise to the other

Excuse my ignorance where is the YEAH state ? What are the roads like ?
Car is almost for all of my rides except the daily use work/down town. But my foot also is heavy enough each time i start the car + the 10-15 track day use.
Thats it.I already know that cause of the factor of "50/50"(which i would say its 70/30) i would have to compromise ,this is the exact reason i am trying to hear-justify your saying so i can understand what's best for me.
So as for your first "observation" about the majority of the people who have tested some of the 3000 pricetag coilovers on a R56 are just a few(or maybe none?(i doubt but possible)) ..OFC you got point on it.But this is one place thats most possible to find one and this is what i hope!
Maybe some of you have a friend who have b16 and you have kw3...Maybe some have another car that have ohlins dvf and give me a hint how it feels.
My target is to find the best setup for me/my car so any advice,hint would be appreciated, because it might help me find out whats best for me. if i understand the pros/cons from many people i would be more objective so i wil choose more wisely. Dont want to have front and back(actually i just want to minimize them).
 

·
MiniTorqueGoesFinland
Joined
·
3,387 Posts
OK, I run Öhlins because I found Bilstein B14s to be too firm for day-to-day use (even though I ran them for about 5 years), and I like the simple adjustability: I'm no track God and my car is used around the year. The B14s were truly excellent on the track though. Mine never knocked. I run the Öhlins soft in winter, firm in summer, and hard on track. The hard settings are far too hard for day-to-day driving. They're also significantly lighter in weight than the Bilsteins. About 10kgs of unsprung weight makes a difference. And I also know that Öhlins are popular on the 996, 997 generation Porsche 911s. I now run Vorshlag top mounts because I want easily adjustable front camber (same, winter, summer, and track). All you need is a long allen key. Rear camber is adjustable with rear camber arms, mine are about half the weight of stock at .8kg.

I didn't have any opportunity to check all sorts of set ups, so I had to rely on research and reviews. And I need to run a set up with TUV approval so that I can stay within local regulations, so that limits the choices a bit.

From memory, I think that Ambroz from KAVS ran the Bilstein B16s on his car, and loved them.

By "rear bar", I meant the bigger stiffer solid rear anti roll (sway) bar from Whiteline. This improves the balance front to rear. I've also run with the front anti roll bar disconnected - this is OK is you have stiff springs. And it's good for traction in winter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
OK, I run Öhlins because I found Bilstein B14s to be too firm for day-to-day use (even though I ran them for about 5 years), and I like the simple adjustability: I'm no track God and my car is used around the year. The B14s were truly excellent on the track though. Mine never knocked. I run the Öhlins soft in winter, firm in summer, and hard on track. The hard settings are far too hard for day-to-day driving. They're also significantly lighter in weight than the Bilsteins. About 10kgs of unsprung weight makes a difference. And I also know that Öhlins are popular on the 996, 997 generation Porsche 911s. I now run Vorshlag top mounts because I want easily adjustable front camber (same, winter, summer, and track). All you need is a long allen key. Rear camber is adjustable with rear camber arms, mine are about half the weight of stock at .8kg.

I didn't have any opportunity to check all sorts of set ups, so I had to rely on research and reviews. And I need to run a set up with TUV approval so that I can stay within local regulations, so that limits the choices a bit.

From memory, I think that Ambroz from KAVS ran the Bilstein B16s on his car, and loved them.

By "rear bar", I meant the bigger stiffer solid rear anti roll (sway) bar from Whiteline. This improves the balance front to rear. I've also run with the front anti roll bar disconnected - this is OK is you have stiff springs. And it's good for traction in winter.
I really love ur answer because everything seems to justify your sayings(by own experience and own preferences ofc)
So rear bar was the sway bar..aight.!(because i mention sway bar as sway and then he said rear bar.) And he suggest to have something even bigger from 22 sway?
Most probably i will go fo the OHLINS since i "learned" that actually DFV engineered etc etc by ohlins but their production is in Japan from a factory since yamaha bought a part of ohlins.
So as for the top mounts, is the ohlins top mount "harder" to adjust the camper than the vorshlag?
 

·
MiniTorqueGoesFinland
Joined
·
3,387 Posts
I really love ur answer because everything seems to justify your sayings(by own experience and own preferences ofc)
So rear bar was the sway bar..aight.!(because i mention sway bar as sway and then he said rear bar.) And he suggest to have something even bigger from 22 sway?
Most probably i will go fo the OHLINS since i "learned" that actually DFV engineered etc etc by ohlins but their production is in Japan from a factory since yamaha bought a part of ohlins.
So as for the top mounts, is the ohlins top mount "harder" to adjust the camper than the vorshlag?
As to the anti-roll/sway bar, there are lots of opinions. I like a stiffer bar, but not too stiff, as I just want a little push from the rear, a little bit of rotation. Too much and the car can bite pretty hard (as I wrote, I run this car in the winter and we have a lot of snow and ice... easy to find yourself in a ditch).

The Öhlins top mount is fixed, but I gather that they also make an adjustable one. I've not seen one in real life. The Vorshlags are very easy to adjust, you just need to raise the car a little to take the weight off the corner, then loosen the bolts, adjust the camber (just pull or push the rim) and re-tighten with an allen key. Then drop the car again...

There are other fims making top mounts, including KW, all sorts. One guy I know swears by a firm called I think CompTech.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top