if you can relate to a cupboard door latch that is pushed to close and pushed to release also, this is the principle really behind the tensioner operation, with a strong spring in it and just assisted by oil pressure, they stick. Many are being changed when they just need washing out, operating lots of times manually, and an oil flush or change, and of course considering low oil pressure and the state of the oil system generally. So this action might be all that is required, at least worth a go.
As above, you must ensure the socket is square on the cover nut, the hardest part is breaking it free. It can be done from the top or made easier partly through the osf wheel aperture with the liner off which will also help you see what you're working with better
all the tool does is lock two pins in the sprocket, you could use an improvisation you believe is suitable that will not distort the sprocket or damage anything, hanging on the chain is not suitable imo but your call.
Sorry I haven't been very active the last couple of days, very busy with work.
So yesterday I tackled the task of changing the Tensioner and trying to get the sump off.
So got everything off needed except the sum, I'll explain more on this in a minute. Rocker cover off looking down on the chain the small bit of the guide that I could see I couldn't see any damage so celebrated a little and proceeded to fit a new tensioner. I could only seem the plastic one, I could see the top of the metal one however couldn't see the bottom even with a touch. What a bastard job to do, I ended up taking off the oil cooler which gave me the much needed room, new one fitted oil cooler back on with one slightly rounded bolt.
Filled her with oil, new rocker gasket, new plugs, good clean of the inter cooler and put it all back together.
The moment of truth came where I hoped and prayed that this fixed the problem, started the car, waitied a few minutes and still noisy! Not as loud I must add though which is a good sign. The looked under the car and saw oil pissing out from the oil cooler so I would assume I need two new gaskets.
Took the cooler back off again to double check everything put it back on and found the Leak not as bad but still leaking lots of oil. the gaskets where very loose in the channels and they where stuck onto the section that gets removed from the car so I'm assuming they are gone.
I couldn't get the sump off as I didn't have the tool to remove the aux belt to drop down the A/C pump so am going to to order the following:
Tool for belt Belt tool - Is this the right tool?
New bolts for oil cooler - Where would I get these from? I have the 4 Torx bolts which I believe are T25/T30?
Gasket for oil cooler (I can only fine two round ones however the ports on the car are oval?) Gaskets
These are what I can find however mine look like this: Current gaskets on car
Link above is the car with the current noise which to me 100% is death rattle and is loud within the wheel arch right next to the chain.
I have a Cam lock tool on it's way and I'm going to replace the chain also, The car has 107K on it so I wouldn't be surprised if the Chain has stretched a little.
I couldn't check to see if the new tensioner has popped out so I might purchase another as a spare.
The old one was knackered as we undid the bold it uncompressed and pushed itself half out, so I think it was safe to say it was stuck in.
Comparing It to the new one it was very stiff to put in, very worn and also doesn't go in all the way so I assume it got stuck around halfway out.
I also found out that I need a new drivers side bush for the wishbone as when undoing the wheel nuts the wheel was moving backwards! So ordered that too, also both CV boots are broken on the gearbox end, so those to be replaced too.
Am I also right in my process for timing the engine.
Turn the engine till all 3 arrows line up with their corresponding coloured links and it could take quite a few time so get this right (I assume turn the engine using the top sprocket bolt?)
If they don't line up get the bottom two lined up and adjust the timing from the top but moving the sprocket until they do line up, is it best to turn left or right, or just turn it so they meet up?
I'm hoping the timing isn't out as except for the noise it runs really well and no management light is on.
The only other concerning thing is and you can see it in the video, the Cat was glowing red and that was only after a very short run, probably around 5 minutes. The is ample air coming out of the back box, could it just be because it's never really had a good long run? When I took off the Supercharger I noticed a smell of Petrol and the underside of the intercooler did has wet fuel over it. The fuel rail is covered in a sort of fuel/oil mixture which has gone black with dirt so I assume it has been like that for a while. Is there a way I can run it with the intercooler to see if the fuel rail is leaking, or is there a common issue with the fuel rails?
I have bought this a project so wanted to get everything fixed before I take it out for a good thrashing!
I don't think your noise is the chain or chain related at all
check the crank damper isn't delaminating, remove the belt and see if the outer can be pulled forward
when you get the sump off check for any movement in the big ends, or better still just by the dealer bolts and some new standard shells from anywhere and remove the old, inspect crank and old shells, fit new if looking in order assuming you know how to tell, internet can be your friend for tips, not the best way without measuring but on the basis they are standard size and new, checked against what comes out, or for freedom of movement after each one is swapped, they can only improve things even if for a limited time.
that tensioner popping part way out when the cap is removed is not unusual
removing the oil cooler with no new seals to go back on is a bit daft, they come as a round seal and take the shape of the groove when fitting, make sure they go on totally dry. Check there is no oil drip on the lower bolt of the housing, if there is you may as well change that seal too, very similar, they go rock hard, it will also make that inner bolt easier to get to assembling the cooler off the car. The exhaust manifold would need disconnecting at the head and gently lifting and to the NS.
it sounds like the pre-cat may be blocked anyway, so the manifold will end up off, in which case the housing will be an easier job to do. Maybe consider swapping or at least rinsing the oil pressure switch if the manifold/housing does come off, the access is just as bad for that in situ later.
you don't need to reference the lower two timing marks, just get the engine to true TDC, after rotating the engine enough times to see the single mark (not essential but will tell you something) to line up with the top sprocket mark, clockwise only, just as it appears on your left and looks like it's going to be in line approaching the 9 0'clock position, set TDC, there is a line embossed on the sprocket that will be or should be in line with the rear gasket face for the rocker cover, place a straight edge between the two to prove correct, if it is and the engine is 100% at true TDC with the marks aligned at the top, then they must be at the bottom. If the mark is slightly low (less than a tooth distance) and TDC properly correct, your chain has stretched, if low or high otherwise at true TDC the timing is probably out, I'm unsure after reading the above that you're competent enough to check this accurately perhaps, but ensure you do, or you can get involved in correcting something that isn't wrong, or missing something that is ;O)
Do you guys based on comments above think i should forget about the chain and guide rails and look at the Crank damper (Harmonic balancer??)
I'll be honest I've not done much with a Chain engine before. My problem is unless i see someone do it i can never understand how to work things out!
Is there any videos out there about getting the timing correct/checking it? If the timing is out how would i then make the timing right?
Everyone seems to just reference these 3 marks so I've never really been able to get some real information. I thought if the 3 marks lined up the timing should be correct?
By the shells am i right in saying it would be number 2/4?
Any links of best places to purchase, i see they vary in price but something like it'd rather buy reliable ones.
Damper - I assume you mean this could of happened, could it be as simple as a crank damper?
I understand i need a puller tool if it is this any recommendations? Crank pulley noise - I've just found this video and it sounds very similar almost exactly the same so i think you might be onto a winner there.
The previous owner sent me a video of the car before i purchased of the noise, i can see that the cat is bright red in his video too.
One thing i forgot to mention was that there was a new exhaust fitted back in April as there was a hole in the rear back box, i know its a long shot but could that of caused the issue with cat?#
I dread to think how expensive a new cat is.
What about the fuel leak couldn't that cause the car to run with hotter exhaust gases?
Does it sound like any lasting engine damage? I've not worked on one of these before hence all the questions.
using the marks are the correct way to check timing, however, it relies on seeing the lower marks only visible with the timing cover off, and it isn't actually necessary. Checking the way I say above, tells you potentially if anything is wrong despite the marks lining up with the sprockets, which otherwise never gets a second thought, but accuracy matters, also if the top mark is found and aligned plus true TDC is found, plus the embossed line is in line, the bottom marks 'must' be in alignment. That's it.
those are the main shells, 5/6 are end shells, if this is a standard car King std size bearings can be bought for under £60 and OEM bolts for ~ £30, and a Victor Reinz sump gasket for under £30
you do need a puller, there are two spacings for early and late R53's, I personally use OEM tools for this for both cars, others use ebay type tools which are no doubt alright for them
exhaust could be an air leak potentially, if leaking fuel at the top perhaps this is a factor for lean running, any fuel leak is a priority to resolve for obvious reasons
to make the timing right you're back to square one requiring the cam locking tool really, tensioner out part way, top sprocket off, move chain as required, refit, recheck etc.
So quick update. Borrowed the tool and got the belt off!
Pulley is fine, no wobble at all very firm and couldn't see any damage to it.
Did however find out that the tensioner locking pin is broken and folded it'self down into the spring. So i assume that someone has probably bent the top while compressing the spring and it's crushed into itself. Noticed this before i even released the tension so i know it wasn't my F up!
Any idea how to replace those if you cant lock it?
Going to pull the sump off tonight to lock for more clues. Will let you know how i get on.
I would be tempted to run it, very, very briefly, with the belt off & see if it's quiet. You'll probably have to clear a bunch of codes but it would tell you whether the rattle is coming from the pulleys or the timing system. Now wondering if the bent pin is knocking against the tensioner spring...
So we have found our issue! It was Rod knock, dropped the sump yesterday, found that to be cracked so have ordered another one.
Cylinder 2 has completely lost it's Shell and was knocking on the crank, checked cylinder 3 and it was starting to go. My mechanic friend came over and checked out the crank for me and found it it be okay and not scorched etc so dodged a massive bullet there. The con rods look perfect with only minimal wear, it would seem the previous owners very short daily runs is what has saved this engine.
Have ordered new shells, rod bolts from dealer, oil, sump and tensioner.
Fitting it all on Sunday and should have the car back up and running
Thank you guys for you help, i managed to see up through the bottom of the engine and the chain guides are perfect and still in tact, i will however keep hold of the new ones in case they ever go. The new tensioner has also popped out so that's working as it should
my recommendation fwiw there, considering my earlier comment re 'limited time', and what you've actually found, is to remove the crank and look closer, or have it checked/ground, or if actually believed to be alright, renew the mains too anyway, check and maybe change the oil pump gears, clean the relief valve, wash the motor all out, and look at changing any rod that has run with no bearing, and look at more, I suspect you might find stuff. Just my2p.