[jonnwhite]

Hey,

Just bought myself a R53, it's got the typical death rattle. The previous owner only drove it home very slowly as it seems the tensioner failed without prior warning.
Have purchased the tensioner and the guide rails however i can't anywhere find a locking tool that can get to me before 10 days (working on car at the weekend).

I've seen people doing it without the locking tool (6th gear foot on break?) or adjustable spanner however not sure how i would do that anyone got a photo?
I was wondering if i can change the guides without undoing cam sprocket?
Going to take the sump off and check for debris but i'm thinking i might just change the guides anyway.
Confident the chain is okay and the timing is not out so don't want to take the chain off if i don't have to!

I've looked at pictures etc and it looks like you can do the guides without taking off the chain?

All help appreciated.
Many thanks
Jon

 

[Astroboy]

Changing the guides can't be done with the sprocket in place unfortunately. You can definitely crack the bolt by sticking it in gear and having an assistant hold the brake but its less than ideal. Don't forget, the cam bolt is single use

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[jonnwhite]

Changing the guides can't be done with the sprocket in place unfortunately. You can definitely crack the bolt by sticking it in gear and having an assistant hold the brake but its less than ideal. Don't forget, the cam bolt is single use

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Okay cool, i didn;t know that!

Any idea where i can get one from before saturday?

 

[Astroboy]

Any mini dealer will get one next day if its not in stock

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[Astroboy]

Just a side note, if you haven't got one, a 3/8" ratchet set comes in very useful for cracking off the tensioner bolt

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[jonnwhite]

Any mini dealer will get one next day if its not in stock

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Just a side note, if you haven't got one, a 3/8" ratchet set comes in very useful for cracking off the tensioner bolt

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Brilliant Thank you!
I have the sockets and also bought a wobble set and a new Torque wrench!
I shall call dealer, any idea on prices? I guess they are ridiculous expensive!

 

[Astroboy]

Nah, dealer prices are sometimes less than ebay. If you are feeling flush I can recommend the ARP cam bolt which is reusable. Orranje sell them but at £40 ish they aren't cheap

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[Rusty Mini]

I have in the past stuck an Allen key in one of the holes in my front disc & wound the wheels round until the Allen key wedged against the caliper. I'm not recommending this approach for a second but I am saying where there's a will, there's a way.

Also, it is perfectly possible to not bother locking anything & time the engine by winding one to TDC & lining up the timing mark on the cam sprocket parallel with the flat of the cyclinder head. It's obviously better to do it the way people recommend but the good news is once you have your ducks in a row, it should easily be under two hours work from start to finish. Good luck mate.

 

[jonnwhite]

I have in the past stuck an Allen key in one of the holes in my front disc & wound the wheels round until the Allen key wedged against the caliper. I'm not recommending this approach for a second but I am saying where there's a will, there's a way.

Also, it is perfectly possible to not bother locking anything & time the engine by winding one to TDC & lining up the timing mark on the cam sprocket parallel with the flat of the cyclinder head. It's obviously better to do it the way people recommend but the good news is once you have your ducks in a row, it should easily be under two hours work from start to finish. Good luck mate.

Okay cool, i think i might use the 6th gear and bake option i've never done toiming before so would rather leave it as it is!
Going to use the Bungie cord on the bonnet trick that i believe i saw mini mod use.
Swap out the rails and then put it back together without any issue hopefully!
Need to get some tipex to mark the sprocket

The oil is low in the car so i think it's caused sudden failure of tensioner there's a leak on the rocker ccover so i have a gasket for that and the sump as going to take the sump off and check for debris.

Thanks for you help guys, i'll post a picture of it below

 

[jonnwhite]

Nah, dealer prices are sometimes less than ebay. If you are feeling flush I can recommend the ARP cam bolt which is reusable. Orranje sell them but at £40 ish they aren't cheap

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New bolt ordered £18 from dealer and collect it today!

 

[jonnwhite]

 

[NigelStap]

Are you certain the guide rails need changing? The tensioner on its own is a five minute job.

Make sure you use a good quality rocker cover gasket. I didn't and had to do the job twice. At least I knew what to do the second time!

 

[Rusty Mini]

Nice car, I like the colour (it's the same as mine ) From memory, the cam sprocket bolt is 110nm which is hefty ish but certainly doable in gear with a foot on the brake. I haven't had my cam out for a while but from memory, the biigest pain in the arse with the job was having to jack up the engine to allow removal of the engine mount to be able in turn to get a socket on the cam sprocket bolt.

If I was super keen, I might be tempted to carry on & take the head off, clean up & lap the valves & renew the valve stem oil seals, going by the notion that you indicated it's likely using oil.

 

[Maccmike]

I made my cam locking tool. Easy enough to do. Where you based?

 

[Astroboy]

Cable tie the chain to the cam sprocket then it ain't going anywhere

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[jonnwhite]

Are you certain the guide rails need changing? The tensioner on its own is a five minute job.

Make sure you use a good quality rocker cover gasket. I didn't and had to do the job twice. At least I knew what to do the second time!

I haven't had the rocker off (can't collect the car till private plate has changed over hopefully this weekend) going to take th erocker off and then look down with a tourch, if they are all good i'll leave them alone.

Nice car, I like the colour (it's the same as mine ) From memory, the cam sprocket bolt is 110nm which is hefty ish but certainly doable in gear with a foot on the brake. I haven't had my cam out for a while but from memory, the biigest pain in the arse with the job was having to jack up the engine to allow removal of the engine mount to be able in turn to get a socket on the cam sprocket bolt.

If I was super keen, I might be tempted to carry on & take the head off, clean up & lap the valves & renew the valve stem oil seals, going by the notion that you indicated it's likely using oil.

My idea is to get the car running again and then slowly over time perform stuff like that. Id also like to do the supercharger pully reduction and a few other bits. Love the colour! Not sure on the name though?

I made my cam locking tool. Easy enough to do. Where you based?

I'm in chichester west sussex, where abouts are you?

Cable tie the chain to the cam sprocket then it ain't going anywhere

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I shall be doing this too! Not taking any chances hahaha

 

[Maccmike]

North West.

 

[CarsOrBikes]

you don't really need to remove the cover if you suspect the tensioner is the cause of the noise, remove the tensioner, reset it, winding it back in extended which will be the hardest part, and start the car. Operating the tensioner fully a few times to lock and release it while out might help free it or push out any gloopy oil perhaps.

imo do not use the in gear/brake way of tightening a cam bolt, 102nm is quite a load to be applying to a chain that probably doesn't see it in use, loading it and the plastic rear guide like this isn't wise really, lock the sprocket and load that. You don't need the tool to time it really. Tensioner is 63nm.

obviously if you wish to check the timing marks then pull the cover, or if needing to release the tensioner the correct way from the top. Cover is 12nm.

 

[jonnwhite]

you don't really need to remove the cover if you suspect the tensioner is the cause of the noise, remove the tensioner, reset it, winding it back in extended which will be the hardest part, and start the car. Operating the tensioner fully a few times to lock and release it while out might help free it or push out any gloopy oil perhaps.

imo do not use the in gear/brake way of tightening a cam bolt, 102nm is quite a load to be applying to a chain that probably doesn't see it in use, loading it and the plastic rear guide like this isn't wise really, lock the sprocket and load that. You don't need the tool to time it really. Tensioner is 63nm.

obviously if you wish to check the timing marks then pull the cover, or if needing to release the tensioner the correct way from the top. Cover is 12nm.

How would I operate the tensionser? Doesn’t it work on oil pressure to move? I have purchased a new one.
mum taking the cover off anyway as the gasket is leaking, so going to chain the guides if they aren’t broken I’m not changing them!

the only problem isI can’t find anywhere that had the locking tool. I’ve found one but the delivery is late next week. I have seen people mention an adjustable spanner on the sprocket, wouldn’t it then get in the way of the bolt?
My only reason for taking the sprocket bolt off would be for changing the guides, I’ve seen that someone has done it without taking it off but it looks like it’s very tiresome. Any other suggestions on how to get the sprocket bolt out if I need too?

 

[Rusty Mini]

The tensioner is spring loaded or at least it feels like it is. When you take it out of the car, it will be obvious to you but you can press the tensioner in & it will lock in the closed position. I think the Mod mini guy demonstrates it in one of his videos. As above, the worst part is taking it off the car, it's an awkward angle to get sockets on & be careful not to round the bolt when you do