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I'm not suggesting the car with a 15% shouldn't be quicker generally really, they all differ I think, some not necessarily quite what people might expect, for various reasons,

the tensioner isn't likely your issue, they all move a bit, if proper hopping about, perhaps first fit the damper from the new tensioner (INA will have a Litens part in the box which is OEM fyi) then see if it changes, easy task, worth knowing if just the damper if interested that is ;O)

quite simply irrespective of where you got it, the belt is wrong, it's already where I'd be renewing it, you need as much as a full hole visible to expect any longevity from it and have assurance it won't slip early, it might indeed not be slipping as it will be in good order still but it isn't great for a new belt. I'd send it back personally, this isn't the first time this type of thing has become evident, seller aside, they need to install them themselves and see why they're wrong, revise the size they supply based on the desired tensioner position being achieved, and know then what they're sending is optimal.

that said some cars with various aftermarket pulleys on by now will suffer variances at the tensioner strap hole used for reference, due to minor differences in manufacturing tolerances perhaps, or belt manufacturers also using very slightly different length belts.

I use Gates belts, they've changed the design of late, now similar to the Conti style backing with a cross hatch pattern, fwiw on a 17 I use 1353, so a 60 would be more like your target size.

the green seal if not fitted right would cause a significant running fault I'm sure, but you might have a cracked tube or seating problem, most people are rushing to do stuff asap so nothing surprises me, if hunting it would make me look at air leaks anyway at first, check the rigid pipes are correctly pushed home perhaps, some stick part way and get left assuming they're seated, also look at vac pipes, especially the fuel pressure regulator one, I believe you looked at the BPV previously, so unlikely. Quite a few of these seem to bog initially as pulling away, but it doesn't appear to affect the general performance, so consider there can be more than one issue for you.
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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267 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
I'm not suggesting the car with a 15% shouldn't be quicker generally really, they all differ I think, some not necessarily quite what people might expect, for various reasons,

the tensioner isn't likely your issue, they all move a bit, if proper hopping about, perhaps first fit the damper from the new tensioner (INA will have a Litens part in the box which is OEM fyi) then see if it changes, easy task, worth knowing if just the damper if interested that is ;O)

quite simply irrespective of where you got it, the belt is wrong, it's already where I'd be renewing it, you need as much as a full hole visible to expect any longevity from it and have assurance it won't slip early, it might indeed not be slipping as it will be in good order still but it isn't great for a new belt. I'd send it back personally, this isn't the first time this type of thing has become evident, seller aside, they need to install them themselves and see why they're wrong, revise the size they supply based on the desired tensioner position being achieved, and know then what they're sending is optimal.

that said some cars with various aftermarket pulleys on by now will suffer variances at the tensioner strap hole used for reference, due to minor differences in manufacturing tolerances perhaps, or belt manufacturers also using very slightly different length belts.

I use Gates belts, they've changed the design of late, now similar to the Conti style backing with a cross hatch pattern, fwiw on a 17 I use 1353, so a 60 would be more like your target size.

the green seal if not fitted right would cause a significant running fault I'm sure, but you might have a cracked tube or seating problem, most people are rushing to do stuff asap so nothing surprises me, if hunting it would make me look at air leaks anyway at first, check the rigid pipes are correctly pushed home perhaps, some stick part way and get left assuming they're seated, also look at vac pipes, especially the fuel pressure regulator one, I believe you looked at the BPV previously, so unlikely. Quite a few of these seem to bog initially as pulling away, but it doesn't appear to affect the general performance, so consider there can be more than one issue for you.
Cheers for that Sean appreciated mate.

Agreed it probably is the belt more so than the tensioner but figure it might well be replaced given its looking a bit ropey.

I'll see about getting a 6PK1360 in that case...would a 1365 do otherwise you think?

I'm wondering whether one of the vac pipes might be a bit loose seated or broken, maybe the one that goes into the map sensor? I checked the pressure regulator one (the one on the supercharger outlet horn before the IC isnt it?) and all looks in order (is plugged in).

I'm probably being pedantic....it doesnt run terribly probably just a little lumpier than I'd like at idle but could well be just how this particular car is? Will get it all checked over in any case.

Bizarrely it seemed to go like the clappers for a couple of hundred miles or so then seemed to lose its go....I'd put it down to the hotter weather but it's obviously more than that.....probably the belt tension settling, the belt being too long and just not quite doing the job probably then?
 

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65 will be too close to where you're at I think, maybe on an 11%

maybe spray something volatile briefly close to joints and observe potential changes, considering all safety risks of course, low flash point etc.
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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267 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Cheers sean will get a 1360 of some sort then
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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Discussion Starter #25
So just ordered a contitech 6pk1360 from Orranje (y)

Having a right old time of it with cars at the moment......so this things doing my box what with its threats to rust, leaking fluid caps (sorted admittedly), broken 1st speed fan, popped engine mount and now this bloody belt......my nearly 3 year old 30k mile Ford S Max needs new rear discs and pads as they are scored to death. Honestly starting to think walking might just suit me better 😂 (y)
 

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2006 R53
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10,404 Posts
If you find you have any cracked plastic boost related stuff I still have the bits I took off my car. You can have whatever you need gratis if you cough up for the postage
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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Discussion Starter #27
If you find you have any cracked plastic boost related stuff I still have the bits I took off my car. You can have whatever you need gratis if you cough up for the postage
Legend thanks Col (y) (y)
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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Discussion Starter #29
Not sure what the OE belt is, but I definitely recommend Contitech over Gates. I've had to replace Gates belts due to stretching quite often, but the Conti doesn't seem to stretch at all.
Got a Contitech one with the OE Inspection II kit I bought when I first bought the car so Contitech is one of the OE fitments....might be others TBF (y)
 
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