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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone I am looking in to a tapping sound from my r53 it sounds like it from the cam chain area. I have replaced the tensioner twice and it is still the same on both. So I have taken off the cam cover and found the chain have slack on the non tensioner is this normal or can it be something like the slide on that side has failed. I have a video showing the amount of slack.

Thanks

Cam chain slack
 

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Hi Mate,

How many miles on the car? I put a replacement engine in mine about 2 weeks ago and swapped my cam into it at the same time I dont recall mine having that amount of slack in it. Perhaps the chain has stretched?

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi thanks for the reply

It is on 100k I was thinking that may be the issue so I had ordered a chain kit so I am thinking of maybe doing a full change is needed.
 

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Hi

I would wait for carsorbikes to reply. My old engine was on 122k and the chain was like yours but slightly less slack I would say. My new 75k engine and fresh chain dont have anywhere near that level of slack.

Cheers

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I think people install chain kits sometimes when they're not required.

The tensioner causes a constant rattle/clatter, is it permanent? How did you release the tensioner? Did the tensioner come out compressed or extended? It made no difference at all?

As you have the cover off take a good look at the cam lobes, maybe also pull on the rockers feeling for any lash. That slack on it's own isn't particularly symbolic. If you wish to rule out guides it's easy to pull them and see.

I'd need to hear it really. You can bring it over for an opinion if you like.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi thanks for the reply I have a video of it running this is without the fan belt so to rule out the super charger.

Running

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also sorry I have already replaced the rockers as there was very bad lash but with the replacment there lash has gone. Thanks
 

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that sounds like you have two noises, one the chain tension, the other crankshaft. Possibly related.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey thanks for the reply I have now popped off the sump and the bearing on cylinder 3 are shot. The whole end of the conrod is black looks like it must have been getting hot I would say. Now on the search for a replacment engine and find somewhere to rent a crain but looks like limited funds to do it with.
 

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I done mine without a crane to save a few quid. Old engine out on a trolley jack and new engine in the same way pretty much. Just make sure when putting it back you do everything that's hard to reach and awkward.

You will get there mate.

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what state is the crank in?

I wouldn't put an engine in unless a block and most other parts were dead. I have one here now in a million bits going back together for a car for sale, not a full recon job just split, cleaned, new bearings etc. No big deal just time consuming especially if cleaning everything by hand. I do realise not everyone is like me though and understandably might not wish to get that involved.

A used motor will still need attention, I spend so much time going on about changing bearings on these, probably the only person in the country haha, I never see anyone else saying anything. Just because these run quietly with worn shells, and anything over 50k will show wear so it's a shame when these cars show up, many are broken due to it. At least you can swap the bearings in the name of prevention/preservation maybe.

Where are you in Cheshire?

I can supply a rod if one is needed.

Stock type rod bearings can be cheap maybe £40-50 and OEM only bolts maybe £30, mains are more but not crazy money, timing cover seals and sump gasket aren't bad, maybe a bottom end set for £70 if that, includes oil filter housing seals and rear main. Clutch £100 if you want to change it. Some sealant for a couple of places, 2 types if doing it right.

You don't even need to take the head off really but I'd do so and clean it all which is a chore but gives you an opportunity to look things over etc.

I'd be checking the oil pump gears. This one I have had a cracked inner gear, and a stuck oil pressure relief valve.

If you are ditching the engine I might take it, perhaps we can agree a loan of a crane in exchange, I might be able to salvage something who knows,

I keep many of the parts you might need normally, waiting for some top up stuff but usually a couple of everything gasket, seal, and bearing wise with bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am not sure about the crank state yet but I can see what you mean about the replacement needing work doing anyway. I am near crewe so not to far from you.

I am thinking maybe remove the engine and strip it down to see what state it is in and hopefully something I can save. If the crank is ok I can so do the cam chain, clutch and other bits as well.
 
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