[oldbrokenwind]

Would you not be better going in at the other side of the air temp/pressure sensor? It would be closer to the stock set up in terms of what the ECU is expecting. Mapping codes out is fine until you need them for diagnosis.

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Prior to this setup, the DV was located just above the FMIC inlet, dumping into the same location as shown above. This produced DV codes randomly. Before using a metal ICI pipe, I had the DV in the location shown --- easier to install but it worked fine. I didn't think the location relative to the sensor would be significant, and adding a "T" to the metal pipe is a one-time event, so I chose the previous spot that worked properly.

Since "closer to what the ECU expects" didn't work for me, I chose to stay with what did work, ignoring how it looks. And I agree with you about the code being useful for diagnosis. I'm not likely to ever get another map, but if it happens, I shouldn't need to have this code over-ridden if it doesn't happen any more.

 

[oldbrokenwind]

30 psi aren't a Problem even on an open deck. I have to correct you there.

I did 5000 km now with 30psi and it holds up even on the stock Pistons.

The good thing about boost is that it doesn't raise the peak cylinder pressure much, it just makes the area under the curve bigger.

Running too much timing resulting in knock breaks pistons and cylinder liners. To break this kind of things boost isn't simply enough.

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I made my statement about 30PSI based on discussions with others much more knowledgeable on the subject than me. Some of their comments can be viewed starting with post #6 in this thread --- From the Baddest to the Deadest - North American Motoring Rather than hijack this thread and argue about 30PSI boost, I suggest Geoff read the applicable parts of my referenced thread and make his own decisions.

 

[GC1980]

Prior to this setup, the DV was located just above the FMIC inlet, dumping into the same location as shown above. This produced DV codes randomly. Before using a metal ICI pipe, I had the DV in the location shown --- easier to install but it worked fine. I didn't think the location relative to the sensor would be significant, and adding a "T" to the metal pipe is a one-time event, so I chose the previous spot that worked properly.

Since "closer to what the ECU expects" didn't work for me, I chose to stay with what did work, ignoring how it looks. And I agree with you about the code being useful for diagnosis. I'm not likely to ever get another map, but if it happens, I shouldn't need to have this code over-ridden if it doesn't happen any more.

Hey Walt,

So I'm probably going to keep the stock ICI pipe in except add in an aluminium 90deg pipe with BOV and run the vacuum hose just a short distance to the adaptor in the inlet manifold.

When I installed the Turbosmart compact shortie, they give you a plug in to fool the ECU. Completely forgot about that little nugget of information.

So am I right in assuming I don't need any other BOV or diverter valves located for when I run the GTX?

Cheers.

Geoff.

 

[oldbrokenwind]

By "90deg pipe" do you mean a "T" pipe / hose, and in a similar location as mine? If so, that should be OK for either a BOV or DV.

Fooling the ECU with the plug from Turbosmart will only let the ECU think you still have the OEM DV. It will NOT eliminate the malfunctioning DV codes, like the one I used to get between shifts, before finding a good location for the DV.

And, correct, there are no other BOV / DV gadgets needed for the GTX. Also, with the GTX, you can eliminate the WG vacuum tank located below the manifold, and the associated hoses. Pretty sure the WG actuator valve needs to stay connected to the ECU, unless you can find another "dummy" plug. Makes for a slightly neater engine bay.

Then you might want to think about adding a boost controller, if you want to achieve more than the GTX WG actuator allows. This can be added after you grow accustomed to the new setup.

 

[GC1980]

By "90deg pipe" do you mean a "T" pipe / hose, and in a similar location as mine? If so, that should be OK for either a BOV or DV.

Fooling the ECU with the plug from Turbosmart will only let the ECU think you still have the OEM DV. It will NOT eliminate the malfunctioning DV codes, like the one I used to get between shifts, before finding a good location for the DV.

And, correct, there are no other BOV / DV gadgets needed for the GTX. Also, with the GTX, you can eliminate the WG vacuum tank located below the manifold, and the associated hoses. Pretty sure the WG actuator valve needs to stay connected to the ECU, unless you can find another "dummy" plug. Makes for a slightly neater engine bay.

Then you might want to think about adding a boost controller, if you want to achieve more than the GTX WG actuator allows. This can be added after you grow accustomed to the new setup.

This is what I was referring to as 90deg.. it's probably not the right way to describe it. I currently have it as a Forge silicone hose as the "noise maker delete". I was of the understanding that this connected to my map sensor adaptor would work fine as the BOV.

So just so I understand a bit better, right now the original DV is out and in the bin, and the Turbosmart is in the hybrids housing. Because it's run via mechanical vacuum the plug in is there to tell / fool the ECU it's still a stock DV? Is there potential harm to be done to the engine then?

If it works in this current setup in telling/fooling the engine what would change if left plugged in?

I've never since ditching the electronic Turbosmart in favour of the mechanical version had any CELs.

I'll have to do some picture searching for WG vacuum tank under the manifold.. presumably inlet?

Yep once the car is built, had a retune, I'll definitely be looking for some sort of boost controller. Ideally an electronic controller.

Thanks.

 

[oldbrokenwind]

This is what I was referring to as 90deg.. it's probably not the right way to describe it. I currently have it as a Forge silicone hose as the "noise maker delete". I was of the understanding that this connected to my map sensor adaptor would work fine as the BOV. This appears to be the correct way to install an external BOV. I can't say for sure because I'm using a DV --- same location but added plumbing.

So just so I understand a bit better, right now the original DV is out and in the bin, and the Turbosmart is in the hybrids housing. Because it's run via mechanical vacuum the plug in is there to tell / fool the ECU it's still a stock DV? Is there potential harm to be done to the engine then? The plug is "fooling" the ECU into believing an OEM DV is in place. If an OEM / hybrid turbo is installed with this Turbosmart BOV, the BOV must be plumbed properly to function correctly. Having never seen this Turbosmart unit up close, I believe that when installed IN a turbo it will perform as a DV. When installed as shown, it only performs as a BOV.

If it works in this current setup in telling/fooling the engine what would change if left plugged in? I believe you would have both a DV and BOV. Probably not synchronized, and possibly causing more boost lag. Again, no experience with this unit.

I've never since ditching the electronic Turbosmart in favour of the mechanical version had any CELs. Probably working correctly as installed. I'm trying to help with a GTX install --- very little similarity to a hybrid / OEM turbo install.

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I'll have to do some picture searching for WG vacuum tank under the manifold.. presumably inlet? Yes, just follow the small diameter hoses from the WG Actuator and Vacuum pump. They go directly to the WG controller and tank.

Yep once the car is built, had a retune, I'll definitely be looking for some sort of boost controller. Ideally an electronic controller. Get the retune AFTER a boost controller --- more cost-effective.

Thanks.

Whose engine bay is shown in this pic? Snow WMI, RPM manifold, Turbosmart BOV --- looks like it should be a nice performing car if it has other associated mods.

 

[GC1980]

Whose engine bay is shown in this pic? Snow WMI, RPM manifold, Turbosmart BOV --- looks like it should be a nice performing car if it has other associated mods.

Thanks for the answers Walt, will do some.more checking. This is Abraham's car, the guy from Speedtech Motorsports in the US.

Just a recap to the ceramic coating discussion, I went down an Instagram story rabbit hole and came across this company who do thermal wrapping. Not fully up to speed on how they do it, possibly welding the materials around said manifold / turbo etc but I've seen they compare heat loss from 5% on ceramic coating to 70-80%. Pretty amazing if that's true

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[oldbrokenwind]

Thanks for the answers Walt, will do some.more checking. This is Abraham's car, the guy from Speedtech Motorsports in the US.

Just a recap to the ceramic coating discussion, I went down an Instagram story rabbit hole and came across this company who do thermal wrapping. Not fully up to speed on how they do it, possibly welding the materials around said manifold / turbo etc but I've seen they compare heat loss from 5% on ceramic coating to 70-80%. Pretty amazing if that's true

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If wrapping is too thick, there might be problems routing the oil drain and the rear (inside) coolant hoses --- down to the oil cooler area. Try to get pics of how it's done and what it might look like before committing to a wrap. Oops, didn't check the link. Maybe do a trial-fit with hoses before committing?

 

[GC1980]

Evening all, it's been a while! Hope everyone is doing well. Just a little update on the car. I'm booking the car in with Brands Hatch Performance for the turbo install, manifold, meth and direct port meth kit with Turbosmart boost controller so it's done and I can get on with things.

In the meantime today I've put the Alta camber arms on and a vibratechnics gearbox mount.

Have to say the gearbox mount is far more racecar than the powerflex add on to a stock gearbox mount. Only went on this afternoon so need to give it a proper run but much more vibration at idle and very low RPMs. Much improved feel though when lifiting off so very little slack which is what you'd want I guess.

Couple of pics..

Had no idea the stock arm was like this! 😬

 

[George1]

Had no idea the stock arm was like this!

Kinky

When you set up the alignment then the toe is adjusted by moving the front trailing arm bracket on slotted holes. You can do it without the special tool but it does make it much easier.

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