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Discussion Starter · #281 ·
I know it’s not ideal but better to discover issues now than 3 months down the line
be Strong…
Very true. I'm meant to be driving to le mans on the 30th. Going to try and get as many miles on the car in all conditions and make sure it's all ok. I'm probably crazy but let's see. Must be plenty of Peugeot GTi parts I could get if needed lol 🤣
 

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You're not that far off the 400BHP, I'm sure if everything gets sorted out you'll get there if it's something you're aiming for.

Is it now GDi6 or GDi4 you're using?

As I'm confused, looking on the SCS web the hardware for the GDi6 is totally different to the GDi4 ECU or are you referring to the software?

I'm sure no big turbo project will be right on with one or two tries without minor issues.

After 3 years, I'm still waiting for my hybrid build to complete :(.
 

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Discussion Starter · #283 ·
You're not that far off the 400BHP, I'm sure if everything gets sorted out you'll get there if it's something you're aiming for.

Is it now GDi6 or GDi4 you're using?

As I'm confused, looking on the SCS web the hardware for the GDi6 is totally different to the GDi4 ECU or are you referring to the software?

I'm sure no big turbo project will be right on with one or two tries without minor issues.

After 3 years, I'm still waiting for my hybrid build to complete :(.
I don't know.. if adding 3lbs only yeilds 10bhp on their rollers, that means I'd have to add 9lbs for 30bhp to make 360+ on it. And at 30psi I'm not comfortable at those levels on an open deck block and I'm not even sure how the fueling would behave at that point. Cracking the block now would be semi ruinous after all that's gone in.

If I can get the car dialed in more on the SCS, I'm really ok with the performance I experienced if for just a short time. I'm still on stock cams for Instance so with cams, I could do a bit more and tune it to bring the torque in a little earlier too. Revs were also capped around 7k and with a full supertech head setup it will rev more. Guess one way to categorise it's performance, figures aside will be with some metrics like 100-200, QTR mile etc.

ECU is a GDi6. Matthew said that's the platform they've moved to since GDi4 as it caters for both 4+6 cylinder cars. Not sure why that wasn't mentioned on day one and tbh I think it surprised them me having it, not that they're going to acknowledge it.

3 years... Don't make it 4! 😉
 

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It's finally coming together!! I'm sure the throttle body is probably what was causing all the little running issues before so it's good to have the problem pinpointed. Annoying intermittent faults are the worst!

Once you've got both channels up and running in the software I think you can reset the throttle body without diagnostics using some kind of throttle/ignition combo.

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Discussion Starter · #285 ·
It's finally coming together!! I'm sure the throttle body is probably what was causing all the little running issues before so it's good to have the problem pinpointed. Annoying intermittent faults are the worst!

Once you've got both channels up and running in the software I think you can reset the throttle body without diagnostics using some kind of throttle/ignition combo.

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Hey George!

Yes the end is in sight just need to keep patient with these teething problems. I fitted the throttle body over Thursday Eve and this morning, and nearly had a meltdown until I realised in my frustration at refitting the intake manifold and spacer plate for meth and all the lines in the way I didn't connect the bloody throttle up! So it started and pulsed 2.2k again! It was one of those lean on the car roof moment until I realised what I'd done!

Throttle is sharp as a tack now! Better than before it failed no question. Still have a noisy pump, and I have had an intermittent 3rd gear flat cut, could be fuel it's definitely not the limiter. Seems to occur if you're holding in 3rd and then go WOT, rather hit second floor it and change for third. Can't see why it would make a difference. Keeping an eye on that.

Niggles aside it's properly quick, and I'm happy to say for now I'm satisfied with the pace it's got.

Had to go into the software itself. I gather on a new throttle body, you'd have the car connected to the software without the engine running and force the flap of the throttle body to open to produce a voltage reading and then make adjustments based on that. As I'd fitted it and driven there we had to work those numbers backwards until we had it setup up.

This was just having a little play earlier.
 

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I think that power isn't bad for 20 PSI boost, but how much power are other big turbo MINIs making with the same boost?

Are you going to up the boost a little or just stay on the safer side?

Enjoy it as it sounds and looks EPIC (y).

Forgot to ask, so is the GDi6 ECU working nicely now like plug n play?
 

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Discussion Starter · #287 ·
I think that power isn't bad for 20 PSI boost, but how much power are other big turbo MINIs making with the same boost?

Are you going to up the boost a little or just stay on the safer side?

Enjoy it as it sounds and looks EPIC (y).

Forgot to ask, so is the GDi6 ECU working nicely now like plug n play?
I'm pretty happy with it. It's like Steve from Track n Road said, numbers don't mean much it's how it drives. He changed the drivetrain losses and then it made 357bhp so it's all pie in the sky really. It was a hot day at 27c, 40+ intake temps. I'm sure on a cooler day it will be more naturally. So many dynos over read and make silly numbers and then when you do head to heads or anything with a timed clock you just see that whatever someone said it made, it clearly didn't.

I don't have anything to compare this 20lbs to on other cars, but happy to hear of others on here if there is such data?

I think I'll stay on the safer side. Like I wrote earlier we tried 23lbs and it did 340bhp. I'll find another Dyno and do a run on that another day and see what it's doing elsewhere for arguments sake.

GDi6 is working better, but the damn fuel pump is so annoying. We looked at the values and it seems ok. I'm going to try and get it to SCS themselves as they have their own Dyno and also have software that can delve a little deeper apparently.
 

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Not sure how much things have moved on with MINI tuning and mods, but found this thread from a few years back

 

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Discussion Starter · #289 ·
Booked the car in for a full geo and corner weight session at Kent Motorsport in Knockholt. Yaser the guy who runs it is a top guy with a lot of setup knowledge.

Got the car up on the lift, wheels off and setup the pre load to make sure they were correct as I didn't check when fitting them. On to the ride height and getting both front and rear matching both respective sides. He suggested a slight right height increase on the rear to give better balance and less chance of understeer on the front end.

It was at this point that we both noticed that the right rear coilover has some play in it. Which corresponded to me saying I felt uneasy about high speed driving due to the vagueness of the car. Turns out that this lower trailing arm bolt has lost its tension and just kept spinning. At this point we decided to cut our losses on setup other than damping, and right height and cornerweighting in favour of repair and make it road worthy again.

Managed to source (with great difficulty) a long enough high tensile bolt (not as high as we wanted of 10.9, or 12.9) but an 8.8 150mm bolt and supporting washers and locking nuts.

Packed out on the inside with 3 large washers, then due to the shape of the arm we needed to pack that out and pull up the nut. A slow trial and error process until we got 85flt lbs on the bolt which we matched on my repair earlier this year. He's not in favour of going on track until the arms are replaced which I agree with. A bit of a setback, but it is what it is and I'll replace the arms and probably bushes before refitting them. It's frustrating just how weak these arms are for undoing and redoing the bolts, they probably have a lifespan of 4/5 loosen/tighten combos. I'm wondering if there is a proper repair out there as it's likely to happen again in the future, especially as I'll be refitting used arms.

I note the torque settings for trailing arm bushes is something crazy like 125ftlbs. No wonder they don't last!

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Coilover fixed we got the car on the scales. With a full tank of gas, welded in half cage, corbeau Pro series seats, and meth tank and pump the car weighed in at 1221kg. I don't think that's bad, considering it doesn't have any fiberglass panels, has all full front interior plus all the extra upgraded engine parts.

I add 96kg to that 😬 So without me, call it 340bhp that gives it a Power to Weight of 278.46bhp. Plenty to get in trouble with.

Millsys is hooking me up with a set of arms and will get these sorted before it's maiden track day on the 27th July. Then it's back to Taser for geo setup. Keep you posted 👍
 

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Those self tapping bolts that they used for the inner end of the arm and the lower end of the shock are a real problem. You're probably better with a helicoil or one of those Wurth Time Serts and a longer bolt. It will be stronger than the original fastener. If you get new arms it's just going to happen again at some point if you're in there working with it on a regular basis.

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Discussion Starter · #291 ·
Those self tapping bolts that they used for the inner end of the arm and the lower end of the shock are a real problem. You're probably better with a helicoil or one of those Wurth Time Serts and a longer bolt. It will be stronger than the original fastener. If you get new arms it's just going to happen again at some point if you're in there working with it on a regular basis.

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Yeah not a bad shout. And easier to do with them off the car. I can get Millsys to prep then before I get there.
 

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Yeah not a bad shout. And easier to do with them off the car. I can get Millsys to prep then before I get there.
The Wurth Time Serts are probably the best solution but they were a bit pricey for me with the drill and tap that you need to fit them. I worried that a helicoil would dislodge when changing shocks so I went with a nut and bolt with a view to upgrading to Time Serts at some point in the future.

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Discussion Starter · #294 · (Edited)
Evening all. Bit of a lay off from posting so thought I'd do a little update and to ask for some advise because as is customary things haven't gone to anything resembling a plan! Lol.

So just to recap, after day one of ECU install we had issues with setup. With some remote help we made progress to map some boost in. Day two we finalised the map and made 336.5bhp & 288ftlb. Cut to, breaking down due to a failed throttle body.

I replaced with a new item and went back to have it calibrated and everything was running well.

On the 30th June some mates and I headed down to Le Man's for the classic. One F11 M5 and a Cayman GTS for company. It was a great long weekend, some epic roads and some spirited driving. Along the way on the way down I got into some boost cut where I'm led to believe the car was looking to make more boost the the settings on the map sensor? Then later on the afr guage gave up completely. My mates complained of all the crap coming out the back of the car, and it was a little grey with fuel. You can see the boost cut in this video.


On the return journey the afr guage came back and all was ok it seemed. Cut to a week later the cars afrs at tickover were in the 10s and was running very rich. I disconnected the lambda/wideband and that brought them back to 14s. I figured the lambda was junk so switch it out for an old lambda. Brought the afrs to 14s and all seemed great. 7 miles home and the following morning the afrs were back in the 10s on cold start and once warm. I called Steve at Track n Road and he booked me in for diagnosis.

Last Monday I went to Track N Road and Steve plugged in to see what was going on. He checked the lambda and said that was ok, and spent the next two hours working through parameters and making small adjustments to fuel maps and tweaking it. He said that he adjusted the map sensor to show 1.7bar instead of 1.6 to get away from the cut issue. Down side being it would be running more boost at around 24psi. He seemed flustered and bothered that nothing seemed obvious and then just turned to me out of the blue and said that he was making an executive decision and that he was stopping. I was totally confused at this point. He called the car a boomerang and said he'd give me £300 cash to go and not come back. Crazy doesn't even come close. I always thought he was on the spectrum and I guess this was proof. After two Dyno sessions he's just abandoned me and the car saying it's got a decent base map but to take it to another tuner he doesn't want to see the car again.

So in light of the running issues (and yes this is just chucking parts at it because I have no way of connecting to the SCS at the minute) I put new coil packs and lambda on. Immediately it idled better and afrs good. This was last night. Turned it off and left it. This morning all ok and half a mile up the road it started running lean to the point it was hesitating and died. So I pulled over restarted it and nursed it home watching the afrs. I swapped the lambda for another spare and again it seemed ok. Set off and a little further around 3 miles it did the same. I switched all the old coil packs and old lambda back in and it's how it has been, a little low on the afrs but safe to drive.

Pics of the ECU. Looks like a heap of shit tbh. Tight wires, poor moulding.
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If it wasn't for the fact I don't have a way of connecting an airfilter to an old MAF, I'd swap out the SCS for my stage 3 stock ECU.

I mean just how bad can my luck get!? I'm just not sure what to do, feel like I've got little choice but to send the car away for a week to SCS. What would you guys do?

SCS have offered to have the car for a week to look at it with no guarantees of fixing it. I'm at the point now where I've suggested three options. 1) buy a lead to connect to the ECU and try and see if there are any faults logged. 2) have asked for a GDi4 ECU and send back the GDi6 once the map is transferred in light of any potential wiring issues in the harness. 3) full refund. I've said from day 1 I don't feel like this is the correct ECU and despite being told it is, my gut says otherwise.
 

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I feel gutted for you. It's beyond awful. Hopefully someone on here will have some good advice but you're in pioneering territory so experience is going to be fairly thin on the ground.

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Discussion Starter · #296 ·
I feel gutted for you. It's beyond awful. Hopefully someone on here will have some good advice but you're in pioneering territory so experience is going to be fairly thin on the ground.

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Cheers George. It's shocking behaviour. Literally said I don't need the money and I don't want to see this car again. Chucked £300 cash in the passenger window and walked to his office.

I could do with some good fortune and or good advice tbh. Hindsight is a wonderful thing, but it is difficult trying not to get caught up in what ifs. I wanted Nick K to do a stock ECU tune but he never answered any messages or calls. Brands Hatch Performance never answered my texts calls or voicemails (as was the same today in a bid to talk to someone) 1320 took 5.5 weeks to reply to an email and during this time I discounted some other mappers who wouldn't do it. So I felt this was the logical (but expensive) step with the SCS. And now, I feel I'm on the edge of a few grand down for absolutely fcuk all.
 

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speaking of hindsight, I wonder if you'd changed the ignition parts before he tweaked the map, whether you'd have found the car might have corrected the rich condition passively?

instead if he's leaned it off and now the parts are on, it seems to have gone the other way,

wonder if he'd send you a copy of the tune you had pre-tweaks so it could be reloaded if it's that kind of system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #298 ·
speaking of hindsight, I wonder if you'd changed the ignition parts before he tweaked the map, whether you'd have found the car might have corrected the rich condition passively?

instead if he's leaned it off and now the parts are on, it seems to have gone the other way,

wonder if he'd send you a copy of the tune you had pre-tweaks so it could be reloaded if it's that kind of system?
That is entirely possible I guess I hadn't thought about it that way. I can always ask him I guess, but I won't hold my breath.

If anyone can shed light on the name of this lead I'll order it. On the scs site it has 3 options but I don't know which one it is.

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speaking of hindsight, I wonder if you'd changed the ignition parts before he tweaked the map, whether you'd have found the car might have corrected the rich condition passively?

instead if he's leaned it off and now the parts are on, it seems to have gone the other way,

wonder if he'd send you a copy of the tune you had pre-tweaks so it could be reloaded if it's that kind of system?
That's not a bad shout. Your first post reads like he's attempted to map out a physical fault and thrown the toys out of the pram when it misbehaved.

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SCS have offered to have the car for a week to look at it with no guarantees of fixing it. I'm at the point now where I've suggested three options. 1) buy a lead to connect to the ECU and try and see if there are any faults logged. 2) have asked for a GDi4 ECU and send back the GDi6 once the map is transferred in light of any potential wiring issues in the harness. 3) full refund. I've said from day 1 I don't feel like this is the correct ECU and despite being told it is, my gut says otherwise.
Sorry to hear it's still not going your way at the moment.

1.) I thought the ECU kit comes with all the correct cables to enable mapping/logging etc... or does it require a separate cable for diagnosis via ECU.
Does the OBD2 port no longer work with diagnostic software because it's aftermarket ECU?


2 & 3.) If you know the car is mechanically healthy after the engine rebuild and other components aren't faulty.
Then, if it was me I would (assuming you could afford to be without the car for a week for work etc...) let SCS take a look at it and maybe compare the map with the GDi4 ECU kit (if they still do them) if you suspect it might be the GDi6 ECU kit as they should know their products better than anyone else (or you hope they do), then at least you've the option for a full refund or get the GDi4 ECU kit if it's working properly with that.

If all that fails, you still have the difficult task of finding a tuner that can rolling road tune the standard ECU without problems.

Who would've thought getting 300/400bhp from these cars could be so difficult.

I do hope you find a solution that'll work for you soon (y).
 
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