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Discussion Starter #1
99427

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All new parts boxed, old parts bagged and tagged awaiting the start of the rebuild at at Technosport in Brent Cross.
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The head is off for a clean up, minimal skim just to freshen the surface ,a 3 angle valve job and the block is to be cleaned, decked, bored and honed before the new parts get fitted. I've asked for pics along the way so will update as and when I get any.

Engine spec will be:

Forged Piston 10:1 Superetech 77.5mm
Supertech Piston Ring Set 77.5mm
Mahle Motorsport Big End Bearing Set
Mahl Motorsport Main Bearing Set
ARP Headstud Kit
ARP Main stud kit
Supertech Inconel Exhaust Valves
Supertech Titanium Valve retainers
Supertech Intake Valve guides Bronze
Supertech Collets
Supertech Headgasket
Ajusa Headgasket set
  1. -Minus Stock headgasket
Febi Timing Chain Kit
Mini Inlet Cam Bolt
Mini Exhaust Cam bolt
Millers 5ltr Running in oil
Ajusa Sump Plug washer
Supertech Forged Conrods
Beehive Valve Spring Kit
Quaife LSD
Tinken Diff Bearing
Mini Gen 2 Guide Washer
 

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Nice list! While the heads off and apart, a good "port and relieve" will really help with engine "breathing". Gonna upgrade cams too? Both Schrick and Cat have nice choices available, but really need a tune to make them worthwhile. Don't go crazy with boost, unless you support or sleeve the cylinders, I learned the hard way.

Looks like a fun project --- best of luck with it.
 
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+1 cams, with less pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
To be honest that list above and other replacement parts, water pump, vanos sensor, binning the rads etc for new because they looked all of their 96k has amounted to £5.5k in parts! I'd really like cams, but it's a question of where do you stop?

I did just spy these..Oranje charge £710 for Newman cams, but these guys came in at £580 for the same cams


Then I've been offered a new coolerworx for £495 and an arm intake for £295 all brand new on a group discount...need more money! HELP!
 

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Cams are where you should start not where you should stop, and they'll do more for the car than a gear lever, or an intake ;O)
 

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I wasn't aware of Newman cams. Checking the link, I don't see any specs about lift or duration --- sorta like WMW cams, "proprietary"? I also see they're offered for N18. I've been told that N18's variable intake (edit: EXHAUST, not intake - brain is faster than my 2-finger typing) timing is the main reason neither Schrick or Cat offer a cam for N18's. Getting what you pay for??? Not enough difference from OEM to affect timing???

Where do you stop? Don't!
 

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I just looked here but no information about it available, you would have to email directly I suspect

there might be a thread here somewhere about 1320 use of catcam on their r56 ? Might be worth digging up
 

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I’m assuming you have read these, both good lockdown reading...

and

but if your putting 5k into rebuilding the motor a cam upgrade of some sort would have to be a big temptation ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Unlikely to go with cams right now. Spend plus rebuild plus machine shop costs it's just a bridge too far. Can always have them fitted when funds allow at a future date.

Block and head are in the machine shop, will be chasing for an update Monday to see where we are at next. Itching to get it back and driving.

Happy VE day. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Slowly starting to get back together now. Head and block back from the machine shop, they started to test fit the inlet valves but seems some got bent in the engine blowing so had to wait a couple of days for new Supertech inlet valves.

Block is done, decked, bored honed/crosshatched. Asked for a lick of paint in red just to finish it off.

Cannot wait to get this up and running! Been over a month!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
100352

100353


Fingers crossed I get to collect this Friday. It's taken a bloody long time but I know it's going to be worth it!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Looks great. What turbo are you using?
JCW turbo, but with a 7+7 cartridge from Telford Turbos. I know a guy who's running over 300 with this and apparently a guy at Telford is running this in his mini with 340bhp. I'll believe it when I see it, but I'd like something around 300 if not more.
 

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340 sounds like a lot on a JCW turbo. Is there much concern about the bore liners at that kind of power or do you manage the torque down a bit to give them an easier time?

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #18
340 sounds like a lot on a JCW turbo. Is there much concern about the bore liners at that kind of power or do you manage the torque down a bit to give them an easier time?

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
Yeah that's what I thought that it was a lot, and the fact it's not got any larger inducer or exducer I did struggle to get my head as round that. I purely replaced it because the shaft had some play in it.

Do you think running 300+ on a fully forged engine, all lightened and balanced plus the crank, flywheel etc will be too much? It's not a sleeved block. Block work done was decked block, bored +0.5, honed and crosshatched. Head ported and polished, 3angle valve job, the lightest of skims to clean the face of it and that's pretty much it.
 

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I don't know. From what I've gleaned on here, the liners will be the weak spot of your engine build. I've got a similar spec running this turbo: TTE300 MINI R56 UPGRADE TURBOCHARGER
I was scared to go beyond 250 with it after hearing all the horror stories...

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I think for long term reliability @ 300bhp+ you would still probably need water/meth and larger oil cooler maybe even if the engine is fully forged and a good tuner.
 
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