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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
List of mods thus far: tiny tiny list for now but will slowly add :)

Exhaust - Euro Car Parts sports exhaust (nasty thing but was affordable for the time being)
Air Intake Blue - Forge Motorsport -

Initial write up:
So my 2005 R53 Cooper S in late November 2019 decided to develop the timing chain rattle.
So I thought- right! I'll get on this and change it myself.

So I did - and that's all done - funnily enough the guides appeared to be ok (I changed them anyway) but the previous owner must have done a replacement and not fished out the old Plastic broken bits..... which means I had to take the Sump off and get the other bits.

My sump plug was an absolute * to get off - it rounded terribly so I had to drill it out and extract it.
Anyway..... Got through all that - all done.

I decided whilst I was at it - I'd put the car in 'front end service mode' and I'd tackle the SC & the Thermostat - as I had been having overheating issues when in standstill traffic. I also figured the SC probably hadn't been serviced - possibly ever.

The Thermostat was easy - did the housing too - no problems.

Got the SC off and gave that a service - new seals on and all - to the correct torque specs.... I put the car back together and now I've got some serious idling issues with some misfiring.

At this point I believed it was to do with an airflow problem - low and behold my intercooler boot (the small one) had tears - so I replaced that. My intake pipe had 2 massive gashes in it you only saw when you moved it around- so I replaced that with a blue Forge pipe. Still not fixed though. I've realised now that my engine prior to me doing any work on it was running lean possibly for quite some time.

My engine threw the following codes:
P2303 / P2300 / P1242 - and one other that I didn't take down... will add this on soon when I next get a chance.

The car drives but the engine doesn't idle whatsoever - it is very erratic. When stationary for 15 seconds or so it drops out and almost stalls it seems & then comes back. Also makes a few PSSSSShhhhtt sounds when that happens.

From reading about the codes - I have an injector electrical problem, air intake problem.

If anyone can help with some advice that would be greatly appreciated. Any help with understanding the codes and what the course of action should be.
This forum has been a great source of knowledge for me thus far.

Thank you for reading!
Ben.
99059
99060
99061
 

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Discussion Starter #2
P2303 Ignition Coil "B" Primary Control Circuit Low
P2300 Ignition Coil "A" Primary Control Circuit Low
P1242 MAP / TMAP sensors

Also as a side note - I did reset the ECU before starting up so it could learn the new mods & all.
 

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Also as a side note - I did reset the ECU before starting up so it could learn the new mods & all.
I could have misheard this, but I don't think that does what you think it does.

Have you checked the coil for the usual rusty terminal issue?

Generally it sounds like you have air-leak issues, could be the fuel vac hose, the S/C inlet boots, the PCV are all likely candidates.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for your reply E-R53 -

I've replaced the PCV valve cause I overtightened the old one facepalm - I think that is ok.
Where do I check on the coil ?
Also how would I check that I've got the S/C inlet boots on correctly -

In terms of the ECU reset- the one by pushing the odo button and stuff - is that not the reset I was thinking?

Thanks !
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Another thought - for anyone reading, if the vacuum hose going from the SC to the MAP sensor was disconnected @ the SC - would the strange idling likely be from that?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for your responses Astroboy !
Just trying to figure out where these vac leaks would be -
I'm pretty new to DIY - I've always done little bits but this has been my first big project.

So the answer lies within me putting back together the SC part of my service - Any advice as to the key spots to look for it / how to test it?

Cheers!!
 

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2006 R53
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Usual culprits are the solid grey line that comes from the pcv, or if you've had the supercharger off the green gasket that goes from the sc inlet and the black squashed hose thing that's under the water pump. That said, it could be something as simple as a tucked supercharger boot
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cheers again Astroboy - I will check the PCV grey line, is there a particular click or way for it to seal into the new PCV - since I pulled it out to replace it, when I've put it back in maybe I didn't get it to click in or seal properly?

I will check the SC gasket & that black squashed hose too - it was annoying to get on when re-installing..... possibly not seated correctly then.

Any tips for seating it correctly?

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #12
When I serviced the supercharger I replaced all the gaskets/seals - so the green one is a new one, just maybe not installed properly? Either way thanks for your contributions !
 

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you've most likely left one of the rigid pipes out or poorly fitted to the charger, one from the brake servo (black) one from the map sensor above the thermostat (grey) or the other end of the grey one to the PCV where it fits into the charger just above and in front of the black intake pipe. That black pipe can split if you're rough with it, it goes on the charger first with both the by pass clips released, tilt the by pass pipe to start it at the BPV then work it on, reset the clips, the original clips are perfectly ok instead of these shite jubilee clips supplied in ebay SC service kits. The I/C boots will most likely be caught at the bottom, the large end you check as you insert the cooler so that shouldn't be the issue but who knows, the small end is a common one for pinching the corners it has or also underneath, the easiest thing to do is to roll it, and it will address itself usually, then pick out any corners from under the clamps, note that tightening the clamps if the boots are oily inside and over the horns they can creep off as they're secured if you're not paying attention, I'm sure they're ok but worth a mention. The rigid plastic lines to get back in to the intake tube will be better done while simultaneously pressing down the red clips, still awkward sometimes, they just need to be straight and they'll suddenly drop in, don't overwork them trying as you can mess up the seals, just patience. These can split also. Then all you have are the fuel pressure regulator hose going to the right horn/inlet manifold, and the bypass valve vacuum going to the left of the inlet manifold.

While you have access to spark plugs double check the torque of 27nm pulling the wrench 'slowly' ;O)
 
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As said above, check all the connections you removed when you dismantled to remove the SC. If you cannot see anything obvious, you can always get your local garage to do a smoke test.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Thank you CarsOrBikes + NigelStap.

Will look into all the above & shall report progress later likely by the end of next week :

I'm thinking the brake servo & map sensor lines are definite culprits as I know I struggled with those a bit + the brake pedal was very hard when I did test start it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Been a little while but getting round to things now - I've pushed these VAC lines in as best as I can without too much force into the SC - test starting soon and will see how things are then.

Thoughts on the visuals of the pipes? They seem like they are too far out but they wont push in any further.......
Had to get a new SC Inlet cause I noticed the sealing parts on my original were stuffed. So nothing is missing there now just looks like they aren't pushed in.

Thoughts anyone?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
IIRC mine went right in up to the ridge round the pipe.
When you put yours back in - did you have to hold down on the little red tabs? How hard did you push in.

I've been weary of breaking the pipes as I've heard the stories about brittleness and breaking them.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
They should be in to the ridge. They are tight but do not need to be excessively forced.
They don't seem to push down any more despite hard pressure -

I'll try push them all down further before starting so I'll see what happens over the next few days.

If anyone else has had this issue before I would love to hear any advice for getting them in properly without damage.
 
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