[CarsOrBikes]

back in 2018 mine was using £1 a minute in fuel😂

finally broke down on track, light on just after Old Hall, expired after Brittens, such a let down, anyone there that had been watching the car during the day perhaps expecting it to have let go from the way it had been going all day on longer sessions, probably though it had in the end, and I didn't get the chance to prove it hadn't, the fuel pump blew it's fuse and I didn't get to diagnose it until the next day, something worth bearing in mind, take a spare pump fuse (or pump) if likely to run low on track....

 

[Fro-dizzle]

Don’t plan on running it low, I usually go out for some before the afternoon session, was having too much fun to think about fuel I guess 😅

 

[Fro-dizzle]

The last few bits I plan to change whilst engine and box are out should arrive over the next week.

So will have:

LUK Clutch kit
Quaife
Gearbox Oil
Coolant
Diff Bearings (Assume no way I can press them on at home? so will likely run these to a garage at some point so it's ready to fit)
Genuine Rear main seal
Genuine oil cooler gaskets
Genuine oil filter housing gasket

Need to check tools and sundries but think this is what I'll need on top of usual bits

T40 Torx
Flywheel locking tool (Necessary?)
Clutch alignment tool (Necessary?)
Brake and clutch cleaner
Anaerobic gasket maker
13mm spanner
Pry bar - driveshafts
E8 torx
Bell housing lube
Engine hoist - Plan to do a days hire Friday pm - Monday am. Will get everything disconnect so engine is hanging then sort the hire.

 

[CarsOrBikes]

A big flat blade screwdriver will usually do left shaft and can hold flywheel through starter aperture (remember to make sure this shaft is fully seated/clipped)

13 ratchet spanner can help you with right shaft intermediate bearing bolts (remove lower mount first makes life easy), this shaft just slides out

some hex sockets can be useful imo

ball joint lever type splitter (good one) helps with lower outer pins, better than smashing the arms about (and joint boots accidentally) although that works we know, or if they're recent joints perhaps leave the pins and use the outer bolts and pull the whole joint out using the arm (T50 likely if OEM type) which is what I do on mine mostly now (I use a sticky grease for the joint body/hub recess knowing it makes this easier later)

can't think what a T40 is for, had in mind 30 for cooler

clutch aligner not absolutely essential but definitely advisable, disc can be set by feel if up for that

if planning to remove shafts completely some can need a CV press, better than whacking the shaft end with a big hammer and messing up the thread etc. (note cheap ones about do work with R53 wheel bolts, not 56 ones, so need other bolts/nuts/washers to hand if you have those fitted)

Loctite for the flywheel bolts or you'll get a leak past them

 

[Fro-dizzle]

Thanks Sean, some great tips there!

I've noted the T40 is for splitting the box to swap the diff over.

Ball joints weren't replaced too long ago so not expecting too much grief from them.

Hoping to leave the shafts in the hub and just angle them rearward but supported.

Haven't upgraded to the later bolts yet, but I have a set from the late R52 Cooper I broke so will update to the later wheel bearings as they require replacing.

Good shout on the loctite, do remember reading that but hadn't added to the list, still have some from pulley install.

 

[Fro-dizzle]

Had the bearings pressed onto the Quaife today so aside from some lube and clutch cleaner I'm all set! Just need to get myself stuck in.

Plan to be in a position to hire the engine hoist for next Friday so plenty of time to go at it nice and slowly.

Wife and Mother also got me a Halfords tool set which will get a nice maiden voyage and i can finally stop digging through a box of tools 😂

Hopefully todays drive won't be it's lasts for weeks on end!

 

[NigelStap]

Six sided sockets are the mechanics friend. They won't round off tight nuts and bolts.

 

[pipsyp]

Remember me if you ever sell it pal

 

[KeithyCoop]

Six sided sockets are the mechanics friend. They won't round off tight nuts and bolts.

I agree, every mechanic should only use these.

 

[Fro-dizzle]

Remember me if you ever sell it pal

No plans for it to go anywhere, ever. 😁

6 sided sockets are a certain wouldn't risk anything else.

 

[Fro-dizzle]

The game is afoot:

Slow progress as can’t dedicate hours to it in one go

Airbox and ECU removed
Injector harness unclipped and moved over
Selector cables released
Manifold heat shield removed
Cool pack removed
Exhaust manifold unbolted
Intercooler removed
EVAP canister unplugged
Drivers earth removed from mount
Aux belt tension released

Started doing the engine bay bits first to limit how long the car is up in the air with the front end off.

Tomorrow I plan to:

drain the coolant and gearbox oil,
release the lower engine mount
Undo driveshaft intermediate bearing
Front bumper
Crash tubes
Bumper bar

Just need to check if the hire place also does chains for lifting the engine or I may need to buy some or a leveller.

Plan is to have engine as close to hanging freely as possible by Tuesday.

 

[CarsOrBikes]

you can always put the car back on the ground fitting the ball joint pins back in loosely with the nuts finger tight

not a 53 but same principle (shafts in)

 

[Fro-dizzle]

Managed to make good progress today:

Engine Oil (I have a VR sump gasket so will check current one for leaks, if none I may save this for if I do the big end bearings), Gearbox oil, and coolant drained
Lower Engine Steady removed
Pas Fan removed
Driveshaft intermediate bearing bolts loosened
Front Bumper, Crash tubes, bumper bar, front panel all removed
Front sensors disconnected and wiring released from brackets
Started soaking the slave cylinder bolts

Plan to do the following tomorrow and then I think I'm there:

Release ball joints
Remove shafts from gearbox
Remove wiring to starter
Unclip reverse switch
Water pipes to oil cooler
Thermostat housing bracket and unclip the two water hoses there
Brake booster pipe
Free shifter cables from holders
Pull all wires through to airbox area

Things I'll leave for when I have the hoist:

Climate condenser
Slave Cylinder
Fuel line

 

[Dans_r53]

Where are you based, I have a crane just sat in my yard doing nothing and have no plans on using it for the next 2 months, your welcome to use it save rushing with the hire company.

 

[Fro-dizzle]

Where are you based, I have a crane just sat in my yard doing nothing and have no plans on using it for the next 2 months, your welcome to use it save rushing with the hire company.

Where are you based, I have a crane just sat in my yard doing nothing and have no plans on using it for the next 2 months, your welcome to use it save rushing with the hire company.

Very kind! I’m in Leigh on sea in Essex.

Did some more this morning:

oil cooler pipes removed - all looks good inside nice clear coolant and no blockages.
Unclipped reverse switch
Thermostat housing bracket and unclipped the two water hoses to the car there
Brake booster pipe
Freed shifter cables from holders
Intermediate bearing bolts removed, will be interesting to get back in!

Despite me thinking the ball joints would play ball as only a couple years old they’re not budging!
Tried separating from the arm and also the other end at the hub.
Soaking them at the mo and will try again later but will order a ball joint splitter if no joy.

once that’s done I can get the shafts out and release the wiring from the started motor.

 

[Dans_r53]

Very kind! I’m in Leigh on sea in Essex.

Ahh thats a shame im birmingham and no way of getting it there. Keep at it though its a great thread.

 

[Fro-dizzle]

Cheers Dan, a bit far unfortunately!

Had another stab at the ball joints....success! One side released where it connects to the hub the other from the wishbone taper.

So now:

Drive shafts removed from box
Starter motor wiring disconnected
PAS wiring disconnected
All wiring now where airbox goes
Fuse box released so I can get to the gearbox mount bolt
Oil cooler pipes mount to the rear removed from the bell housing rather than the 10mm (Thanks for the tip in Carls thread Sean)

So pretty much there now, will rent the hoist from Thursday to Thursday to take some pressure off trying to find time to get it all done over the weekend.

Still spraying the slave cylinder in the hope it will play nicely when it comes to removing

 

[Fro-dizzle]

Engine crane will be delivered tomorrow, decided to hire for a week to be on the safe side.

Looking forward to getting the engine out and cracking on!

 

[Fro-dizzle]

Crane has landed! Just need to make a bit of space to be able to put the pallet down.

 

[Fro-dizzle]

And we’re out!

Thought I was onto a winner when one slave bolt was free tried the other and it snapped in an awkward place so couldn’t get the slave off.

Had to hacksaw through it which was laborious, but got it off and release it nice and slow thanks to Sean’s advice.

Ordered two new ones from BMW. And will have the fun of drilling out the lower one.

Then was just a case of set up the crane, take the load and undo the mounts then wiggle it out of there.

In hindsight I should have parked the car further left so I could put the engine next to it under tarp and out of sight rather than put it in the garage as moving that crane along the ground was a pita!

Will get the box off tomorrow and do the clutch/rear main first as I’m still waiting on red loctite for the diff crown wheel.