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Discussion Starter #41
If building for 300+HP, I hope you at least consider a CSS, 'specially since it's already torn down far enough. Shipping across the pond might be out of the question, but maybe there's someone closer that does this --- other than Darton sleeves.

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This is the concept used by CSS --- Cylinder Support System – cylindersupportsystem.com
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You're a little ahead of me there 😂 I've been interested in this for some time and know where a similar system is installed in the UK, I suspect the costs will be way above those of CSS but lets hope not when I discuss it with them, ideally I'd like my own source for installation and manufacture of the part which at the moment isn't beyond the scope of possibility, it would depend on the need for specific machinery but there are people I already use for some clever stuff....

In your pic is that the above part 'plus' liners? There appears to be a coloured ring at the top making me think it's also lined, if so was that an expensive thing over there? A specific liner type? Lining isn't too bad here generally, I haven't explored any specific performance kit....

Unsure if I'd do it at all, although I agree it makes sense. Most are tuning these with the turbo, meaning everything is pressure related if that makes sense, I know there's going to be high pressure anyway being a turbo but I'm stuck on the fact people are cramming so much air in to force the crank to turn high gearing that it is what's responsible for the failures we're seeing of rods, cylinder tops, and clutches if not pistons which we know are also affected by oil consumption too on some. I'll continue my thoughts on this below.
 

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In your pic is that the above part 'plus' liners? There appears to be a coloured ring at the top making me think it's also lined, if so was that an expensive thing over there? A specific liner type? Lining isn't too bad here generally, I haven't explored any specific performance kit....

Unsure if I'd do it at all, although I agree it makes sense. Most are tuning these with the turbo, meaning everything is pressure related if that makes sense, I know there's going to be high pressure anyway being a turbo but I'm stuck on the fact people are cramming so much air in to force the crank to turn high gearing that it is what's responsible for the failures we're seeing of rods, cylinder tops, and clutches if not pistons which we know are also affected by oil consumption too on some. I'll continue my thoughts on this below.
That "coloured ring" is a copper or brass "o-ring", supposed to help the head gasket seal off the compression chamber. It's another option offered by the CSS installer. The CSS installation process deforms the cylinder walls slightly, so after installation, a rebore is done. They request that the customer ship new pistons with the block (top half only) and they calculate the bore size accordingly. I chose 77.5mm and 9.0:1CR from CP.

I suggest the CSS because after your customer gets accustomed to the new-found power, they'll probably want more. Bigger turbo is by far the easiest way to add power, and as you say, pressure will increase. When I went from a GTX2860R to a G25-660 on a tubular manifold, there was a 130HP gain with no other changes --- "bolt-on" stuff most people can do. Having the block "prepared" for added power should be a big plus for your sales efforts --- gives the customer time to save for the next mod.
 
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That "coloured ring" is a copper or brass "o-ring", supposed to help the head gasket seal off the compression chamber. It's another option offered by the CSS installer. The CSS installation process deforms the cylinder walls slightly, so after installation, a rebore is done. They request that the customer ship new pistons with the block (top half only) and they calculate the bore size accordingly. I chose 77.5mm and 9.0:1CR from CP.

I suggest the CSS because after your customer gets accustomed to the new-found power, they'll probably want more. Bigger turbo is by far the easiest way to add power, and as you say, pressure will increase. When I went from a GTX2860R to a G25-660 on a tubular manifold, there was a 130HP gain with no other changes --- "bolt-on" stuff most people can do. Having the block "prepared" for added power should be a big plus for your sales efforts --- gives the customer time to save for the next mod.
You say they do a re bore after installing the liner cradle? Do they replace the liners at the same time or reuse the originals? Because my understanding was that the liners had a special anti friction coating, like nikasil but inferior, which along with some coated piston rings actually contributed to the oil usage of the engine. Surely if this were to be damaged in any way (boring/ aggressive honing) the liners would be scrap?
 

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You say they do a re bore after installing the liner cradle? Do they replace the liners at the same time or reuse the originals? Because my understanding was that the liners had a special anti friction coating, like nikasil but inferior, which along with some coated piston rings actually contributed to the oil usage of the engine. Surely if this were to be damaged in any way (boring/ aggressive honing) the liners would be scrap?
I'm not aware of any "liners" being used, maybe contact CSS directly for more info. Remember, this is a Cylinder Support System, not completely new cylinders. The explanation I got when discussing their process was the water jacket "filler" was pressed into the jacket, causing slight cylinder wall distortion. That distortion is removed by a rebore, to fit the pistons furnished by the customer, in my case, the common 0.5mm oversize. Maybe you can describe these "liners" you refer to? Something similar to a Darton Sleeve? As for oil consumption, I'm burning virtually no oil between 5K mile oil changes, and I've put several K miles on this engine since the CSS install.
 

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I have briefly been on the CSS website after coming across a thread on here, and my assumption was that the machine work was to the block alone to allow the cradle to have a platform to sit on if you like. And again i am only aware of a possibility of a liner coating due to threads on various forums, hence the question.
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
I don't know if people over here use the compression ring, I doubt it, they do talk about the bore top distortion. I'd want it stock bore size personally, unsure if I'd sleeve it but think it's a worthwhile consideration, some engine sheds say the finish quality can be superior to the stock bore.

Car hasn't seen a lot done, a few more parts removed, and some cleaned a bit more.

A few more little purchases, this one is experimental and a one off for now.... only one pic for the time being ;O)

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I was looking at a few zorsts that were cheaper too, I won't be wasting money on Milltek I said to myself, and didn't haha, there were a few options as you'd expect, I couldn't really make my mind up as I was contemplating running with a de-cat and possibly still will later, or at least a sport cat, but of the options I saw, considering costs, and in particular the expectation I have of the cheaper parts still to offer some longevity, I moved from one I was looking at which was a res system in 2.5", the res was larger than others which was good, I didn't want noise, yet I didn't like the way the silencer hangers were all just simple support bars welded to the top of the silencer skin, they just look weak, so looked at more....

Then I saw this which is a 3" pipe with a much better support bar design, but also a better joint system using 'V' bands over the other which was sleeved as most are. I find it a bit annoying that when I use a stainless sleeved pipe it tends to creep apart under load, certainly when I've tuned stuff, so I liked this idea. This is also a Chinese origin pipe which I'll adapt as necessary to fit correctly. The tailpipe trims are much nicer than some, the 2.5" one mentioned just had formed trims bent over slightly at the very end to give them a finish but it looked cheap. This has finishers made with a bevel which is a nicer look altogether I thought.

My noise preference or consideration clearly went right out the window and any ideas of de-cat for now also, or sport cat probably😂.

Anyway it's here....

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Discussion Starter #47
You'll notice there is no res at all haha, the beauty of this is the simplicity of dropping the centre out of the two 'V' band connections and having my exhaust manufacturer insert one which will restore also the potential to run this as a de-cat ;O)

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It's going to be loud, assuming I actually install it haha, it might get sold on, a little unlikely, It'll look great, actually it'll sound alright with the cat left alone and damped anyway as turbo cars are by the turbo itself. I think it's actually quite nicely made, budget shows through in a couple of places but compared to some shite about I'm not complaining.... yet😂
 

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That’s the direnza unit is it not Sean?

For the money, I think they deliver quite a good product. The welds always seem to have quite good quality control in them.

They used to be even cheaper but have pushed up their prices over the past couple of years.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
probably out of the same factory but some other name, it looks alright, I'll post a sound clip if I use it.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Just more pics of bits done now and then ;O)

Valves just wanting a final clean and re-lap,

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Bit of a clean up for the casings

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Head is getting a bit cleaner too

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Discussion Starter #54
A few bits to get off still overall, still it's considerably better than the choked up mess it was.

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Then I had a go at 'engine corner' :unsure: , four engines and three gearboxes in bits dotted about here and there, and a turbo kit quick to occupy a space where a bike was, so made a temporary work bench, well two actually....

First....

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The other had to accommodate a Ducati😂 At least until it's sold, then the silly beam at the front can go and the legs back on, and a shelf possibly if the compressor isn't too in the way. Actually the beam isn't really in the way much, the bottom drawer a little but used less and it's better than before:

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The Ducati is actually almost on the wall on the left due to the mirror, so the right mirror sticking out is just how it has to be, they don't fold. The beam stops the top sagging onto the front screen which has ~3mm clearance😁

Gave the other one a shelf. Would have been longer but moved the A/C station in from the other garage as it was affecting access to the other car, fits nicely under the top.

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Still a bit junky but better than stuff all together on the floor. I'm having a couple of stainless covers made to preserve the wood from oil etc and moving heavy motor parts around which will soon gouge the tops up. Should be ready by the weekend. The shelf or shelves I'll possibly leave as wood, and just cut some cardboard or put hardboard over.

Nothing to do with an N14 but needed doing even if temporary. I was originally liking the idea of hinging them so I could fold and latch them up for bike work/access etc. I'll revisit that later perhaps.

Fixed the fluorescent light with a new tube, and will probably add two more directly over the tops now.

I'd like to renew the up and over door with a sealed/insulated roller door. We're hoping to imminently renew and relocate the boiler, when that happens a radiator will be going in both garages which will be welcomed. Might happen even sooner now as coincidentally the boiler packed up in the early hours. Hopefully just a thermocouple....
 

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Workbenches look great, need to add some to mine once I've shifted more of the crap in there as you have seen. Like you I have thought about hinging them as then may just be able to get the Mini in, still need to try it for size.

I've only had the roller door done recently, was an up and over before that, so much better space wise and nice to be able to close it and get on with bits particularly as it starts to get colder.

LED lighting strips are good value and provide very good output compared to the flourescent tubes.

White walls and decent floor tiles also on the cards. Was meant to get most of that done this year, but the little one/ fettling with the mini has slowed progress.

Lots of great ideas in the garages section on detailing world if you ever need some inspiration.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
well.... the exhaust didn't last long, new customer passing by called in for an R56 chat, curious about noise level for the exhaust, brought it back yesterday for a trial fit, loved it, bought it 😂 🏁

bit loud for me actually, well not 'loud' just a bit boomy, I'd have added a res probably, anyway, he likes it, not a daily car so he says it's ideal for what he wants, all good then ;O)

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I have a couple of sound files to upload, these never seem as clear as in person but I'll add them later perhaps, quieter than I expected, just a bit of a boom when revved, seems worse on overrun for my ears, and will no doubt have a bit of a drone, all very personal preferences though, the new owner thinks it's ace(y)
 
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