MiniTorque.com banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
STANCE|WORKS
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
First thread in a long time here, the GFs Mini failed its MOT today, on what I see to be quite a common set of faults.

Firstly the emissions were running slightly too high, put down to a hole in the backbox, then came the worst news. The brake pipes (front to rear both sides, both fronts), need replacing.

I can't seem to get much information about this online. Is it quite a hard or easy (in the lightest sense) job to do? Possible on a driveway?

The whole underside seems to have seen better days, not what I was expecting for a 90k, 55 plate car.

Any help would be great. Anyone done it before?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,320 Posts
Ours were completely shot on the back of a 2007 MINI so it does happen, Lohen replaced ours and it wasn't that pricey tbh but can't tell you how easy it is as a DIY job.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,971 Posts
If you use mini parts - steel brake lines, it's doable but a complete nightmare to do, best bet would be to use copper brake lines as they are easier to work with and less likely to corrode.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,645 Posts
There easy to do (coming from a mechanic) but as your asking this question I wouldn't do it. One wrong flare and kit could fail a few miles later and you have no brakes!
 

·
Premium Member
2006 R53
Joined
·
10,554 Posts
I got an advisory on my last mot for the same. I expect that come August when its due som remedial action will be needed. What is it that's difficult about fitting steel lines? Surely it's got to be easier and better than fabricating wavy copper replacements from scratch?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,904 Posts
Steel doesn't bend to easy and you can kink the pipe when bending steel.

Copper is much more friendly to work with easier to bend and get into place, in theory it's an easy job if every thing goes how it should.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,645 Posts
To a certain extent. But there never in the right shape and ed up getting damaged. With copper you can mould them to the shape/adjust the route slightly. Steel ones are not made to be bent once shaped and get brittle or kink easily
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,904 Posts
I don't think it would work because you wouldn't be able to get the pipe into position if its pre bent. I hope that makes sense?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,322 Posts
I had all mine done at the start of the year , mechanic said around the patrol tank was the worst bit . all mine were a couple of hundred quid , most of it lab our . the BMW ones come straight , you have to bend them yourself
 

·
STANCE|WORKS
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I should say, my mechanic friend will be carrying out the work. He just wants me to get the extra information about the work.

He said if I could get pre-formed lines from Mini, could I. But reading online it seems they do not come bent and you have to bend them yourself anyway. You think it is best to go to the motorfactors and get copper starting fresh?

Fromwhat I can gauge on RealOEM, the lines have a union under the front somewhere, so do not require routing right to the ABS module which looking at the engine bay is a great thing. Is this right?

If I have to start fresh,does anyone know how much copper will be needed.
 

·
STANCE|WORKS
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ah, thanks Bainie, I had not refreshed since your reply.

Yes I had read that too, looked around the petrol tank and at least the tank doesn't need to come out! I think the exhaust will need dropping off though? We have to change the mount anyway (where is best to buy one, local ECP are out of stock!)

Thanks very much for your help so far.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,322 Posts
I am offshore at the moment , not home till next weekend , or I could have told you how much you need as I was charged by the meter, pipe was cheap tbh ... My exhaust didnt need dropped, on an r53 .
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,971 Posts
yes there is a joint on the rear sections around the cat area, so that makes replacing the rear sections simpler
 

·
STANCE|WORKS
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Can anyone confirm the length I need? Going to purchase this morning.

From what I can work out on realOEM, it is around 3m for front with M10/M10 male fittings each end, and around 5.2m for rear, one with male M10/M12 and one M10/M10.
 

·
STANCE|WORKS
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
For anyone attempting this in the future... Do not be worried, it was so easy. Everything went exactly to plan.

The 25ft roll was the exact length to the millimetre.

We took off the wheels, removed bonnet rubber seal, battery cover and removed the filler neck jubilee clip and hose. Nothing else removed, undid the old hoses and pulled from the car with a bit of wriggling.

Bent the new ones to shape, cut and fitted unions.

Nsr and nsf were the easiest all on the o/s had to he partially bent whilst on the car after they were passed over the exhaust and fuel lines, and through the trim in front of the bulkhead.

Bled all the system, checked for leaks and job was done. Took barely two hours.

The bracket on the backbox was the worst job of the lot ! Cost me a grand total of £8.04 for hose, £3.76 for unions and £4.02 for a litre of brake fluid. £15.82 total, for a job quoted at a dealer of being over £200!

So pleased with it all.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top