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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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Discussion Starter #201
Well guys after a relaxing evening with some mates on the local beach I came back and just had to look into this......I'm like a dog with a bone honestly 🤣 (y)

So the mirror is now in the car....was a case of prizing both mirrors apart, robbing the transmitter from the old mirror to swap with the R56 one and put back together.

As I suspected what we have is working remote locking.....no auto dim. It does seem that on my car at least the wiring included is for the remote locking only, the wires being by all accounts (having read a bit more on NAM) a 12v live, 4.5v trigger wire and ground. These go to pins 2, 8 and 10 which only feed the locking receiver.

From my homework I've figured that pin 1 probably does the reverse sensing, pin 3 would be the 12v feed for the auto dim circuit (get this powered and we have lift off) with pin 10 being the ground already wired in for it.

To make this work I figure I probably need to fudge some sort of jumper wire within the mirror that provides 12v from the existing remote locking wiring to the red wire (Pin 3) on the auto dim side of the loom.....is that or run some sort of switched 12v live from the fuse box up to the loom which seems like rather a lot of work. Figure I might go with the former.....I have a couple of speaker wiring harnesses I bought for it that turned out to be for a different BMW model so could use the 12v cable from that to enact some sort of temporary jumper to test it....all being well then look to make it permanent.

Anyway...I suppose its progress. If I get it working on permanent 12v by wiring it within the mirror I'll be happy with that
(y)
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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Discussion Starter #202
I've decided I will try and scotchlock a connection wire between the 12v feed to the locking module and the 12v input on the dimming circuit, to all be done and contained within the mirror itself. As there is already the shared ground figure it should just work.....just need to determine which if the two red and yellow wires in the existing headliner loom is the 12v. Might have a go at sorting later and let you all know how it goes.

Something I have noticed....for some reason this mirror doesnt fit so snuggly on the mirror mount. I ended up swapping the mounting plate off my old mirror onto this one but it's still a tiny bit loose......the ball joint on the mirror itself is so tight that when its moved around it can move the actual mount around a bit. I can live with it tho.
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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Discussion Starter #203 (Edited)
Right guys......just as a bit of a wrap up in case anyone else tries this I thought I'd put it down in layman's terms roughly how this is done.......do's and dont's etc......theres a lot of mixed info out there so through my own pains wanted to put it our there so others dont have to struggle.......though I cant guarantee 100% accuracy and anyone that undertakes this of course does so at their own risk!

Firstly.......facelift 1st gen Minis (in the UK at least) ARE NOT pre wired for auto dim. If it wasnt ordered from the factory the switched 12v and reverse sensing wiring will be missing....the only wiring that goes to the manual mirror is for the remote locking receiver which is a permanent 12v, 4.5v pulse wire (for when the button is pressed) and ground. This is my experience anyway. I cant confirm or deny whether earlier facelift cars will have the wiring or not....mine is a June 2006 build and definitely only has the wiring for the locking module. It is possible Mini removed the pre wiring at some stage, or that it's never been a thing for UK/EU build vehicles.

Despite this fact, due to the locking receiver being in the mirror there is a 12v feed there. It however needs to be tapped into, would be a permanent (not switched) live so technically the auto dim mirror would be enabled all the time with the ignition off unlike the factory set up. Also the reverse sensing would be missing.

To tap the power you need to run a splice between the orange wire on the remote locking receiver wiring (the 12v feed) and the red wire (12v input) on the auto dim wiring. By doing so you are basically splicing the auto dim mirror circuit board onto the permanent live used for the remote locking. I suggest doing this by soldering or scotch locking a suitable 12v wire between the two circuits within the mirror. This way the mirror will work largely as intended, but without altering any of the factory wiring loom/pulling the car apart.

Those seeking a more factory arrangement can run the switched 12v and reverse sensing wiring to the factory harness to the fuse board. I believe the reverse sensing wire goes in pin 1 and needs to be tapped into the cars reversing light circuit, pin 3 is what feeds the 12v to the auto dim circuit (which is missing on manual mirror cars) and a suitable fused feed would need to be run to the fuse board.

An R56 mirror is perfect for the job on a facelift gen 1 as the mirror unit itself is identical. The only difference being that the locking receiver is a different type (and frequency) and so needs to be replaced with the existing receiver from your gen 1 car. You have to dismantle the mirror to do this, but the mounting plate for the board marries perfectly with both boards to once removed it is a simple refit. Note that the R56 mirror uses philips screws on the most part but the receiver module is held on using two small torx screws (just regular screws on the gen 1 mirror) so bear in mind that you'll need some torx drivers....its probably a T20 but that's just a guess.

Sourcing an R50/R53 facelift dimming mirror more than likely does away with the need to swap the locking receiver as the type should be just the same. The mirrors only differ by way of the locking receiver, otherwise they are identical and that the mirror needs to be taken apart to sort the auto dim wiring I dont see theres any real advantage to getting an R50/R53 one over an r56.

Pre facelifts need a gen 1 pre FL dimming mirror as the wiring and mounting is different to the FL/R56. The pre FL dimming mirror can be wired into the clock permanent 12v and ground. Similarly the R52 has a specific mirror with mounting specifically for the convertible, so you need to make sure when sourcing for a convertible you at very least get an R52 or R56 convertible (R58?) Mirror.

Out the box, mirror swapped with locking module installed the locking reciever will work as before but with no auto dim. To reiterate to make the auto dim work you need to jumper orange wire on the locking module wiring (12v) to the red wire (12v feed) on the auto dim wiring, thus providing the auto dim circuit a permanent 12v feed from the locking receiver wiring. The mirror will always be active and will not perform reverse sensing due to how it is wired but will function largely as required as all the control/intelligence is within the auto dim circuit in the mirror. I'd envisage it's so low draw that it ought not present an issue with power drain or overwhelming the locking receiver circuit. Others appear to have done it without issue. I believe what you are in essence doing is jumping existing 12v pin 8 for the locking circuit with pin 3 (12v for the dimming) which is missing in the factory loom.

Not such a popular thing in the UK but if you did also get a mirror with homelink, note the homelink module powers itself (I believe) from the auto dim circuitry, so as long as the auto dim is powered, so will the homelink module be.

As it stands my mirror is in, the car locks and unlocks but the dimming wont work until I scotchlock the 12v wiring together within the mirror as described above. I've ordered some scotchlocks and plan to have a go at this when I get some quiet time away from the kids this evening (y) (y)
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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Discussion Starter #204
Soldiering and shrink wrapping might be a better fix, but I dont have an iron or means to properly heat a shrink wrap. Scotch locks are a bit more reversible and have inherent insulation properties which I rather like.....
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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Discussion Starter #206
I've used a hair dryer to heat shrink before. No, it wasn't mine... haha
Haha good call that.....I deliberated buying a soldering iron but I haven't soldered anything since Tech at school in the mid 90's.....so probably best left alone (y) (y) (y) 😂
 

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Haha good call that.....I deliberated buying a soldering iron but I haven't soldered anything since Tech at school in the mid 90's.....so probably best left alone (y) (y) (y) 😂
One of those tools that i find always come in handy every now and again, can I think I read you had quite a bit of wire so can brush up on your skills before doing to the real thing.(y)
Best to check it will work before soldering etc though.
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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Discussion Starter #208
Yeah I ordered some scotch lock connectors in the end which should do the trick.....should just be a simple snip a piece of wire and clip down at each end. Should be pretty tidy and the wire will just sit in the mirror casing anyway....probably a bit quick and dirty in some peoples eyes but should do the trick

I might revisit it down the line with solder/heat wrapping if it comes out at all ropey 👍
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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Discussion Starter #210
Yeah looks just the ticket that bud!

I was possibly going to do it slightly differently with a scotch lock both ends with a separate piece of wire joining the two but snip and splice does just as well.

If you get a chance plug it in and let me know how it goes. What should hopefully happen is if you block off the rear sensor with your finger then shine a torch at the front sensor on the mirror the glass should go dark (y) (y)

Annoyingly ordered the scotch locks on prime yesterday for next day delivery and they've only just been dispatched so tomorrow evening it will be.....have some scotch lock snips/pliers as well somewhere but might have to improvise otherwise. Missus will be happy for me not to fart around with the bloody thing again for the night I'm sure 😂
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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Discussion Starter #212
Weird its just the one wire and no ground too. 1/2/2005 FL Mini BTW
Yeah bud caught me out too, the ground is split in the mirror loom, must be spliced within the cable wrapping that goes through the mirror bracket. If you look the main wire off the loom is slightly fatter, splits into 2 thinner ground wires one going to each circuit. The auto dim circuit should therefore already be grounded hence why only the 12v needs splicing......

8 wires in, 9 wires out 👍
 

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2006 R53 Hyper Blue/White Cooper S
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Discussion Starter #219
Well the job is complete!

My scotch locks turned up today so this evening I set to taking apart the mirror once more to finish it off.

All I did was very simple, exactly as per Astrocooper's previous post once the mirror was open I just did this:-

* Cut the red wire (that feeds the auto dim circuit) from inside the mirror close to where it enters the mirror in the loom. This left me with the red wire to the auto dim circuit loose to scotchlock

* Using a suitable scotchlock I simply tapped into the orange 12v live feeding the locking circuit and placed the red cable in the blocked end side. I then crimped with scotchlock crimps which simply spliced the red cable and orange cables together. The permanent 12v live for the locking circuit therefore feeding the 12v live on the auto dim circuit too. Both circuits were already wired for ground so that was it.

To tidy I added a couple of small zip ties to tidy the cables and keep them loomed with the existing wiring as I had no cable wrap. I can confirm the mirror did not rattle etc. with the internal wiring changes.

I tested the mirror, though it was still quite light outside and the effect is very subtle......the mirror over the course of a few seconds (and it's really not that obvious) goes green and darkens things off....but its subtle enough that you can still see through it. Stop the mirror from thinking it is dark and receiving rearward glare and slowly the mirror goes back to looking almost plain glass (still with a very slight tinge of green). I dont know if there are different mirrors that work slightly differently but this early R56 one I have is very subtle....but then I'm certain the one in my old R50 was just the same.

Naturally the thing is active all the time and doesnt reverse sense but neither of those things are important...the nice part about it is the mod requires no alteration of the cars wiring loom and using just one scotchlock/solder joint there is only one point of failure so easy to diagnose should it ever fail.

Think this is undoubtedly the best c. 35 quid I've spent on the car to date....perhaps any car mod ever! Really happy!

The finished article......also thanks Astrocooper for your inspiration on the wiring, simplest and best approach vs two scotchlocks and a link wire (y)

20200627_205638.jpg
 
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