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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,


Im looking to upgrade my engine in the following year or so and i was looking at RMW 1.8L stroker and i have a couple of questions....i know im annoying :)
RMW is not replying or anwsering phones now its maybe because of covid or bad customer support... so thats why im here

I would really like to have a reliable car so that said i would rather loose a couple of hp that have a blown motor. (already blown one) .. i guess im asking how is the reliability on these stroker kits?

when i will opt for upgrades i will also get a BVH to match and was thinking of a RMW again, does anybody have one that could give me some pointers or maybe so other brands?

and finally, is the stroker actually worth it since i dont know the price... is the good 'ol forged piston and rods and BVH a better choice?

I really appriciate anybody who replies and helps :) thanks you
 

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Premium Member
2006 R53
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10,418 Posts
Personally I wouldn't touch any of Jan's stuff having seen one of his BVH's that was repaired with chemical metal before being sold. His website is awful and his attitude is worse. Unfortunately I'm not aware of anyone else who does a stroker kit
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Personally I wouldn't touch any of Jan's stuff having seen one of his BVH's that was repaired with chemical metal before being sold. His website is awful and his attitude is worse. Unfortunately I'm not aware of anyone else who does a stroker kit
personally i did get the same vibe from him since i sent him an email regarding this subject and he literally told me nothing about it just the price and delivery rate.... that beeing said, since i live 30min away from crankshaft modification shop i will probably do my crank there and get forged rods and .0.5 overbore forged pistons, and a little crank shave and polish...
 

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2006 R53
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10,418 Posts
Be wary with overboring as the block walls can't take much without becoming a weak link. If you have a machine shop that can do it, sleeving is the best way forward in my opinion
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Be wary with overboring as the block walls can't take much without becoming a weak link. If you have a machine shop that can do it, sleeving is the best way forward in my opinion
yes ofcourse sleeves are a must i forgot to type that like i said the machine shop i really close to me and ive seen their work before, they make those crazy 800-1000hp hillclimb monsters so as far as that goes they are a reliable source
 

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Bugger
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25,314 Posts
Sleeves wont solve the issue. The block itself is crap for running higher power, waterways are not up to it. I've seen a few people I know closely spend fortunes (in one case enough to buy a 911 GT3) trying to make silly power out of a tritec.

Its a small SHOC engine developed on a budget. Its not going to take double its power and last long. Look how often the turbo cars seem to need a rebuild.

If you spent the amount you're thinking of spending on the engine, on the chassis, then you would have a quick mini. 280bhp can be had reliably (ish) out of a Cooper S with bolt on's, going beyond that is the wall of death.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sleeves wont solve the issue. The block itself is crap for running higher power, waterways are not up to it. I've seen a few people I know closely spend fortunes (in one case enough to buy a 911 GT3) trying to make silly power out of a tritec.

Its a small SHOC engine developed on a budget. Its not going to take double its power and last long. Look how often the turbo cars seem to need a rebuild.

If you spent the amount you're thinking of spending on the engine, on the chassis, then you would have a quick mini. 280bhp can be had reliably (ish) out of a Cooper S with bolt on's, going beyond that is the wall of death.
interesting information... ive heard from other people the healthy bottom end is supposedly strong as it goes for non modified engines...

My chassis is 95% already done so thats been taken care of, now at it goes for the engine by your recommendation i was thinking of an BVH some intake/exhaust manifold porting, stock sized forged pistons and forged rods, complete engine ARP bolts, some new cams, 5kg flywheel (already have it just not installed), crank balancing, some bigger injectors, damper, pulley, tune, intercooler, headers, baffled sump..... any more recommendations are welcome... id rather loose a few hp than blow it
 

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Bugger
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25,314 Posts
interesting information... ive heard from other people the healthy bottom end is supposedly strong as it goes for non modified engines...
Its not a bad motor, if 280 bhp is the most you can live with. Its a fact it doesn't deal with heat, liners only mask one issue, they can't solve the fundamental flaw of heat and its lack of places to go within the block at the loading required to make that much power.

for 280bhp, I wouldn't even bother with forged rods or pistons (for road / track), your biggest issue with the stock motor is Intake Air Temp, you have to pick a set up / trade off.

GRS front mount will solve the heat issues but leave you capped at 260 bhp or so.

GRS top mount will yeild a higher peak power but for a lap or two or a few pulls.

Water / Meth does work well but its another factor to have calculated in, mapped for and reliant on more mechanical parts.

If I was building my MCS from the ground up heres what / how I would.

Road Spec Car

Stock block, JCW head, newman cam, 380cc JCW map, GRS top mount, 4-2-1 / stock cat, piper exhaust Mhale Motorsport bearings / ARP bolts, ARP damper, Helix Organic clutch, stock plate and TTV flywheel.

Race Spec Car

stock block, shed head, newman cam, 440cc, Link ECU / Mark Sheed map, GRS top front mount intercooler 4-2-1 / stock cat, Brola Cooper 2.25 single exit exhaust, Mhale Motorsport bearings / ARP bolts, ARP damper, Helix Organic clutch, stock plate and TTV flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Its not a bad motor, if 280 bhp is the most you can live with. Its a fact it doesn't deal with heat, liners only mask one issue, they can't solve the fundamental flaw of heat and its lack of places to go within the block at the loading required to make that much power.

for 280bhp, I wouldn't even bother with forged rods or pistons (for road / track), your biggest issue with the stock motor is Intake Air Temp, you have to pick a set up / trade off.

GRS front mount will solve the heat issues but leave you capped at 260 bhp or so.

GRS top mount will yeild a higher peak power but for a lap or two or a few pulls.

Water / Meth does work well but its another factor to have calculated in, mapped for and reliant on more mechanical parts.

If I was building my MCS from the ground up heres what / how I would.

Road Spec Car

Stock block, JCW head, newman cam, 380cc JCW map, GRS top mount, 4-2-1 / stock cat, piper exhaust Mhale Motorsport bearings / ARP bolts, ARP damper, Helix Organic clutch, stock plate and TTV flywheel.

Race Spec Car

stock block, shed head, newman cam, 440cc, Link ECU / Mark Sheed map, GRS top front mount intercooler 4-2-1 / stock cat, Brola Cooper 2.25 single exit exhaust, Mhale Motorsport bearings / ARP bolts, ARP damper, Helix Organic clutch, stock plate and TTV flywheel.
Its not a bad motor, if 280 bhp is the most you can live with. Its a fact it doesn't deal with heat, liners only mask one issue, they can't solve the fundamental flaw of heat and its lack of places to go within the block at the loading required to make that much power.

for 280bhp, I wouldn't even bother with forged rods or pistons (for road / track), your biggest issue with the stock motor is Intake Air Temp, you have to pick a set up / trade off.

GRS front mount will solve the heat issues but leave you capped at 260 bhp or so.

GRS top mount will yeild a higher peak power but for a lap or two or a few pulls.

Water / Meth does work well but its another factor to have calculated in, mapped for and reliant on more mechanical parts.

If I was building my MCS from the ground up heres what / how I would.

Road Spec Car

Stock block, JCW head, newman cam, 380cc JCW map, GRS top mount, 4-2-1 / stock cat, piper exhaust Mhale Motorsport bearings / ARP bolts, ARP damper, Helix Organic clutch, stock plate and TTV flywheel.

Race Spec Car

stock block, shed head, newman cam, 440cc, Link ECU / Mark Sheed map, GRS top front mount intercooler 4-2-1 / stock cat, Brola Cooper 2.25 single exit exhaust, Mhale Motorsport bearings / ARP bolts, ARP damper, Helix Organic clutch, stock plate and TTV flywheel.
you have a pm
 

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Its not a bad motor, if 280 bhp is the most you can live with. Its a fact it doesn't deal with heat, liners only mask one issue, they can't solve the fundamental flaw of heat and its lack of places to go within the block at the loading required to make that much power.

for 280bhp, I wouldn't even bother with forged rods or pistons (for road / track), your biggest issue with the stock motor is Intake Air Temp, you have to pick a set up / trade off.

GRS front mount will solve the heat issues but leave you capped at 260 bhp or so.

GRS top mount will yeild a higher peak power but for a lap or two or a few pulls.

Water / Meth does work well but its another factor to have calculated in, mapped for and reliant on more mechanical parts.

If I was building my MCS from the ground up heres what / how I would.

Road Spec Car

Stock block, JCW head, newman cam, 380cc JCW map, GRS top mount, 4-2-1 / stock cat, piper exhaust Mhale Motorsport bearings / ARP bolts, ARP damper, Helix Organic clutch, stock plate and TTV flywheel.

Race Spec Car

stock block, shed head, newman cam, 440cc, Link ECU / Mark Sheed map, GRS top front mount intercooler 4-2-1 / stock cat, Brola Cooper 2.25 single exit exhaust, Mhale Motorsport bearings / ARP bolts, ARP damper, Helix Organic clutch, stock plate and TTV flywheel.
FMIC and 260hp is ambitious.

I'm.on 232 with

Rob Cox Rallye ported head
15% pulley
Airtec FMIC
JCW airbox
Cat cam 469
550cc injectors
Scorpion manifold
decat
Link ECU mapped by 1320
Facelift SC
That's with brand new piston rings etc
230hp (199whp)

Car is currently in at 1320 and will be having

Rallye ported head upgraded to Rob Cox BVH
New updated BPV
Decat swapped with tomcat
469 catcam potentially swapped to 463 or 464 race cam

I'm not expecting to gain 30hp. Would be nice though.


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Facebook: Chequebook Racing
Insta; @chequebookracing
 

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Personally I wouldn't touch any of Jan's stuff having seen one of his BVH's that was repaired with chemical metal before being sold. His website is awful and his attitude is worse. Unfortunately I'm not aware of anyone else who does a stroker kit
#FakeNEWS
I have all the info about that attempted con job. Shameful at best
 

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Registered
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3,762 Posts
Hi,


Im looking to upgrade my engine in the following year or so and i was looking at RMW 1.8L stroker and i have a couple of questions....i know im annoying :)
RMW is not replying or anwsering phones now its maybe because of covid or bad customer support... so thats why im here

I would really like to have a reliable car so that said i would rather loose a couple of hp that have a blown motor. (already blown one) .. i guess im asking how is the reliability on these stroker kits?

when i will opt for upgrades i will also get a BVH to match and was thinking of a RMW again, does anybody have one that could give me some pointers or maybe so other brands?

and finally, is the stroker actually worth it since i dont know the price... is the good 'ol forged piston and rods and BVH a better choice?

I really appriciate anybody who replies and helps :) thanks you
did you leave messages or email me?
 

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Registered
Joined
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3,762 Posts
Sleeves wont solve the issue. The block itself is crap for running higher power, waterways are not up to it. I've seen a few people I know closely spend fortunes (in one case enough to buy a 911 GT3) trying to make silly power out of a tritec.

Its a small SHOC engine developed on a budget. Its not going to take double its power and last long. Look how often the turbo cars seem to need a rebuild.

If you spent the amount you're thinking of spending on the engine, on the chassis, then you would have a quick mini. 280bhp can be had reliably (ish) out of a Cooper S with bolt on's, going beyond that is the wall of death.
this hasn't been true, it's been the problem with OTHER people sleeving them. I sleeved the 1st one in 2006, and for 12yrs I was told that it's not needed. Yet here we are. The engine I built for Eva Bomber has over 200 pulls at 50psi and it's 100% good, not to mention hundreds of pulls at 28-35psi. The car made 642whp at 31psi..... Proper sleeving and just as important, proper tuning is whether they need rebuilt all the time. Many of the people are learning the weakness of the fuel system. Stuff we have known for years
 
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