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Old 09-02-10, 13:48   #1 (permalink)
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Nitrac Discs, running in...

Hi all

The Nitrac discs group buy has been resurrected...

http://www.minitorque.com/forum/f271...17/index2.html

Does anyone have any experience of 'running in' these discs? If so, does the standard running in for these type of track discs apply or is there a different method!!?

Cheers

Rich
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Old 09-02-10, 13:53   #2 (permalink)
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The method is similar to Toyota Prius owners:


- Don't use them

When are you getting a new Pulley Rich to take advantage of the brakes??!!
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Old 09-02-10, 13:57   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moleatrude View Post
The method is similar to Toyota Prius owners:


- Don't use them

When are you getting a new Pulley Rich to take advantage of the brakes??!!


Not gona bother going from 15% to 17%, rather spend money on cam, 550s and tune
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Go: Alta 15%, NGK Iridium plugs, GRS 'Motorsport', Dave.F Hybrid Airbox, Milltek Cat-back, 17" Gloss black Pro Race 1.2s, R56 MCS Calipers, Powerflex bushes, OMP lower strut, Eibachs. Waiting to be fitted: Nitrac 294mm 12 groove discs, Mintex M1144 pads, Goodridge brake lines
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Old 09-02-10, 14:04   #4 (permalink)
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ha ha fair enough! I will still be faster than you though ha ha
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Old 09-02-10, 14:08   #5 (permalink)
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1. Brake from 60mph down to 30mph about 4-6 times.
2. Then let your brakes cool for about 2-3 minutes while driving.
3. Repeat step # 1.
4. Allow the brake pads and discs to cool down to ambient temperature (about 30 minutes or more).

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Old 09-02-10, 14:21   #6 (permalink)
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Not gona bother going from 15% to 17%, rather spend money on cam, 550s and tune
doing well to get that lot for the cost of a pully, is their a Que i can join
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Old 09-02-10, 14:37   #7 (permalink)
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Its hard to do on public roads to be honest, unless you know a really quiet bit of road it can be a PITA.

The key is to not have to stop at any point during the bedding in process. What you need to avoid is an un-even transfer of pad material onto the disk. If you sit in traffic with hot brakes (you will be heating them so they will be particular extra hot) they will start to tranfer too much in one place. Even the slightest variation in the amount of material in one place to another can/will cause brake judder.

I found a bit of road and did 30 to 70, 30 to 70, 30 to 70 as many times as possible. Braking medium to hard (not full) then looped back round without touching the brakes and maintaining 40ish mph (this allows air too naturally cool the brakes). Like shampoo rinse and repeat as required....

Once your done try not to use them at all (of course you may have to) slow down using the gears and try to coast to where your going to park up. If you have changed the rears make sure its a flat and don't put your handbrake on (leave it in gear).

What you are trying to avoid is having any heat in the brakes whilst its sat still which can damage your rotors.

Also, very important (im pretty sure you will have done this) but make sure these are NEW pads. Never use old pads on new disks!!
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Old 09-02-10, 14:42   #8 (permalink)
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Also note when doing the rinse repeat you will know when too much is too much because they will overheat, this is also something you obviously want to avoid lol.

I'm using my stock calipers with £18 a pop discs, Mintex 1144's and dot5.1 and the car stops like a dream!
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Old 09-02-10, 17:50   #9 (permalink)
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doing well to get that lot for the cost of a pully, is their a Que i can join
I wish...
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Indi Blue R53 MCS 207 bhp & 176 lb-ft stock map Read my Project Thread View my Garage

Go: Alta 15%, NGK Iridium plugs, GRS 'Motorsport', Dave.F Hybrid Airbox, Milltek Cat-back, 17" Gloss black Pro Race 1.2s, R56 MCS Calipers, Powerflex bushes, OMP lower strut, Eibachs. Waiting to be fitted: Nitrac 294mm 12 groove discs, Mintex M1144 pads, Goodridge brake lines
Show: Aero Grill, Ultra Halos, Scanguage 2, CG Locks, Stubby Aerial
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