Cold Running Issue - may be cheese related
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Thread: Cold Running Issue - may be cheese related

  1. #1
    Learning! MinIan's Avatar
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    Cold Running Issue - may be cheese related

    Yes another R56 problem thread, sorry but looking for guidance from people who have suffered the same issues as I am having with my cheese engined MCS ........

    Car is 08 build, has 31k miles, regularly serviced and oil changes, catch cans fitted 3k miles ago

    Recently (last 2k miles) I have been experiencing a distinct drop in fuel economy (about 5-6mpg) and my routes/use hasn't changed. I have experienced intermittent hesitation when flooring it from constant revs, ie at motorway speeds. This hasn't been too intrusive but is noticeable.

    Yesterday and this morning when starting the car it had a serious misfire and actually stalled a couple of times. The exhaust was popping and banging like a bastard (in a bad way not the usual nice way) when trying to keep the revs up so as not to stall again. When the engine warmed up a bit, still stationary at this time, it simply went away and I carried on my journeys.

    I have been parking my car up against my garage door for security in the last week, but as I left this morning after the problem died off, I noticed the garage door was covered in oily sooty crap.

    There are no codes, the knock detector isn't showing any issues and temps and boost are all fine.

    Bizarrely, when I turned on the ignition today the dash clock had reset itself to _ _ : _ _ and the trips and OBC settings had all turned to zero.

    The auto start/stop hasn't been working recently, although did last night.

    So - I am considering the following:-

    HPFP, I don't think it has been replaced yet

    Due to the OBC resetting, could it possibly be a battery issue?

    Possibly a vacuum leak, would this manifest when cold only?

    Thoughts and advice would be appreciated

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    Themis Thepenl's Avatar
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    Your thoughts are good. I would go checking the HPFP and the battery voltage. The auto start/stop is not working also when voltage is inadequate. Having said that, my battery is the original one (nearly 6 years old) and never have reset itself, however the start/stop doesn't work as it used to (it has a significant delay which I think has to do with the battery voltage). I am monitoring the voltage now so I'll get to the bottom of it eventually.
    Have you also checked your spark plugs? They could be responsible for misfires and cold running issues.
    Good luck my friend, we will figure this out, don't worry...

    My R56 . . . . . . . . Performance data . . . . . . . . YouTube channel

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    As above HPFP...... the ECU tends to throw more fuel in of which then cant be burnt quick enough resulting in poor engine drivability and spark plug fouling...
    Last edited by Pd240bhp; 26/04/13 at 19:07.

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    Learning! MinIan's Avatar
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    Cheers guys, is there a way to actually check the HPFP ?

    I have lost my plug spanner and had my volt meter nicked along with all my other tools a while back and never replaced them all - typical

    I have also found a clip, this is EXACTLY what it sounds like, although if my missus was as dumb as this I would buy her a friggin bike - he's no better


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    Ian, the ecu sometimes stores fault codes for HPFP opening and closing issue's but you would need dealer level equipment to read them, as you have stated check associted parts then you may just have to bite the bullit and purchase a HPFP.
    Good luck with a fix and keep us posted as you always do.

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    Throttle Junkie TDLC's Avatar
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    My last HPFP died a slow death over a 3 month period. The first signs were stuttering each time when (after staring from cold) RPM drops from 1,100 to 779 rpm after a minute or so. The car drove completely normal after that. Months later, the dyno fuelling graph would still run it's normal curve, but the line looked like a volcano tremor graph. Very shortly after that, it lost 50 bhp on the dyno in an afternoon. HPFP replaced and all was normal again.

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    Learning! MinIan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pd240bhp View Post
    Ian, the ecu sometimes stores fault codes for HPFP opening and closing issue's but you would need dealer level equipment to read them, as you have stated check associted parts then you may just have to bite the bullit and purchase a HPFP.
    Good luck with a fix and keep us posted as you always do.
    I'm very surprised that there are no codes showing whatsoever having seen how bad it's running Paul. Not saying you're wrong, it just seems weird - I have a new contact who may have BMW diagnostics so I may try him first.

    Quote Originally Posted by TDLC View Post
    My last HPFP died a slow death over a 3 month period. The first signs were stuttering each time when (after staring from cold) RPM drops from 1,100 to 779 rpm after a minute or so. The car drove completely normal after that. Months later, the dyno fuelling graph would still run it's normal curve, but the line looked like a volcano tremor graph. Very shortly after that, it lost 50 bhp on the dyno in an afternoon. HPFP replaced and all was normal again.
    Thanks Jurgen, I've never experienced anything like it tbh, as you say it's like a bucking bronco when cold, as soon as is warm - off we go

    I seem to recall seeing reading that they increased the warranty on these, or was it in the USA? Mine ran out in September so if not I will have to beg or blag to get any sort of assistance

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    Ian you are correct the warrenty covers HPFP for 10years but only in the USA, the HPFP is so hard to diagnose, dyno run will help most garages will check all service items first then just replace HPFP.

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    So are they covered in uk only as long as the warranty lasts?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MinIan View Post
    So are they covered in uk only as long as the warranty lasts?
    Yes only 3 years for us brits plus 1 year extended mini warrenty if took out.... very hard to prove failure as not many have error codes as the ecu protects the engine so well,
    remember it is a fuelling issue input, hook car up cold on a dyno and then check fuelling, i know MINICRAFT have had a couple of R56 that they were really struggling to tune and decided that the HPFP was the issue (No fault codes) when the cars were put back on dyno and re-flashed bingo the power was back.
    If it was me i would purchase one myself and change it about 1-2 hour labour max.

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